2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Could anyone send me a copy of the Haynes book on this model truck plz?
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Getting ready to get a 30' bumper pull and ProPride hitch to tow with the rig in my signature. The PacBrake electronics tie into the lock up wire at the ECM to activate the exh brake when the unit is turned on and foot comes off the accelerator. If I wanted to add a TC lock up switch so that I can lock up in 2nd gear on up (Dynamic VB modded to allow that) for towing slow up steep inclines, can I do this without inhibiting the use of the exh brake? I'm assuming that I'd leave the PacBrake switch "off" and use the lock up switch as needed climbing hills. Then when going downhill, turn the TC lock switch "off" and turn on the PacBrake. Anyone have any wiring info on this? S…
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My truck has airlocked on me twice in a few months. The first time I didn't know what happened it just shut off while driving and I had to have it towed. The second time I cracked the injector lines and it fixed it. I do remember that each time this happened it was right after I goosed her a bit and let off the throttle. I would like to figure out what is causing it so I don't have to worry about it shutting off in the middle of traffic again.
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Hey folks searched on here but didn't find the answer I was looking for, most likely user error. About to install an auxiliary trans cooler with fan under the bed, mostly for slow 4x4 driving. I live in Nevada and it gets hot. I've got a Mishimoto replacement cooler up front. I drew three hunt tags here in Nevada and with 333K on the clock I want to help it out a bit. I wanted to double check that the return line on the transmission is the rear line as it attaches to the transmission, correct? #3 in this image. Thanks in advance, Adam
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I notice reading through the forum that the Adrenaline seems to be top dog again, I bought one when they first came out for my now gone 99 2500, had a few problems like the fuel sensor just blasted out when I was driving and then they got recalled, then I had other programming problems and then the word was they where going out of business. I wasted the Auto in the truck so it did pull well and had good top end. So then I bought a Smarty (for timing) and added a TST 3 for my fueling on my current truck and it works well but it is 2 different units and I have not really paid attention for a few years and like I said I see the Adrenaline is real popular again just curios i…
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So do you have to align the rear main housing?? I have a seal and speedy sleeve for the rear main, so I will install after housing is on. I also have the seal/sleeve install tool. The housing will have new gasket and I'll also add some loctite 515 on that and torque to ___??? I will also be doing pil pan gasket. I assume it's better to install housing first with out Goop on the bottom, then remove oil pan and do gasket etc there... Please advise!! Sorry need to get this done pretty quick and want getting any quick responses on my build thread.
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Started her up after about a month of it not running this past July. Drove her across town maybe 10 minutes to the store. when i came back to the parking lot and turned the key i get a single click from the starter solenoid. I hastily buy two new batteries as it was a friday evening nearing closing time for the auto parts store. replaced the batteries and still got the single click at the starter, i decide to give the starter motor couple bangs to see if it helps but no luck. As it got dark out, i called a tow and got her home, when the tow pulled up to the house i rolled her off the flat bed in 2nd gear and she started right up. i didnt get around to working on the probl…
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Hey guys, recently while I’m in traffic I’ve been having a voltage Drop and temperature spike. I’m in Las Vegas and daily temps are 100°+. I just fixed a vacuum leak on my 4x4 actuator which was causing excessive oil to come out of the crank case breather. Do y’all think this might be related because of oil getting on the pulleys and I just need to clean them up and swap the belt or should I start looking in a different direction?
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Hi All, I have a question, I am in the home stretch of swapping my 24v i am needing to tap for key on power for the lift pump and fuel shutoff, those that have p pump swapped their trucks, where did you tap in for key on power? just looking for ideas before i get to that step Thanks.
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So when I put my truck in drive and try to power brake it. It won’t go over 2000 rpms,it just acts like it’s red lining. I am just wondering if the 0237 code could cause this and what else it could cause? Thanks
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Hi guys. New here. Been around these things for a long time, but don't know Cummins like you guys do. I come from the rockcrawling world, and know a lot about LS stuff, and worked on lots of different diesels over the years, but not lots of cummins stuff beyond 12v. I need some help. Have a few issues on this cobbled together hooptie. Bought this truck as a tow rig, as my Bil's buggy will fit on the rear and it can tow my crawler behind it. Supposedly it was running and driving and then wouldn't start one morning. Tried and tried to get it but couldn't. Had some "diesel mechanic" diagnose it as a bad VP44 due to codes etc. Removed it and then he couldnt affo…
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So Ive got two leaks going on, one is leaking out of the drain spout and the other is the plastic housing that screws to the side of the housing. Ive looked at several auto parts stores. I checked napa on line and cant find anything under fuel filter housing. I feel like dodge would just be a waste of time, it would just be discontinued like everything else. Any leads on this?
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Today in my work load was my shop owner asking me to replace his water pump. Pretty straight forward. Got to the part of refilling the coolant in the system. I did like I normally do is remove the thermostat and fill when I popped thermostat out and the bypass flap is missing. Now this is the second Cummins thermostat seen fail.
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I have to say I'm not a fan of the dry fit seals used on the crank. I've had bad luck with leaks. I have replaced a few on my own and others engines. The crank looks fine, sometimes I clean them up with fine Emery cloth. I use the seal installer that usually comes with it and center the seal housing as best I can before tightening the bolts. I never tried the shaft saver ring type most parts stores give me deer in the headlights look when I ask about a kit. Does it require machine work? Anyone use an alternative traditional seal?
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Hello guys. Long time lurker. I bought a 2002 24v with a NV 5600 about a year ago. The truck had tons of goodies when I bought it. Iv been trying to make it as reliable as possible since I drive it all across the county. Today I am fixing my tappet cover leak with a billet cover. I notice two plugs that are just hanging out with out a home. They lead to the harness the runs along the bottom of the tappet cover. Here are some images. I was hoping someone could help me identify them. My edge juice with attitude also took a crap the other day. It keeps saying “failed to connect” but it works half the time. Sometimes it will fail to …
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Stumped here fellas just picked up a truck on a good deal didnt run was said it needed a vp so i threw an ho pump on i had laying around got it running after a hard start and some code reading later found out it needed a crank sensor after i got it running but when letting off throttle it chugged bad and ran kind of choppy put one in and it started much better but tach only works when first started then drops out short after and still idles kind of choppy and still chugs bad when letting off throttle in drive didn’t know if there was any common problems i can get more info on it tomorrow as well, thanks in advance to anyone who can help!
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So I made my first haul with the new to me truck. Pulled over after 15 miles just to look over things and rear end was pretty warm could touch and thats about it. I left my temp gun at the shop so I dont know exactly what the temp was but I was pulling about 17k. Unloaded and got back to shop got heat gun and the pinion bearing area was 150 degrees the lowest part of third member was 138, thats pulling a 8k empty trailer. So I know it was hotter when loaded, lets just say 170, temp was a 60 degree day. Seems a little hot to me. What are you seeing rear end temps at? I replaced the pinion seal and dont know what I torqued it to but I know I looked it up.
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Having problems with tranny staying in overdrive. If and or when it does wanna shift into od as soon as I let outta the throttle it will clunk kinda hard depending on the speed when it happens it will damn near put ya in the windshield when it happens but when it first started i was in the fast lane and someone cut me off so I got outta the throttle and it was like someone reached over and pulled it down into low side so I stayed outta it for a sec then got back in it, it tached the rpms up to 2800 and it acted like it was stick in for a few min and then finally shifted since then it has gotten worse it started about a month or so ago read a few things and talked to a few…
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I got this P1757 GOV PRESS ABOVE 3 PSI IN GEAR WITH 0 MPH also got P0622 and P1693 the last two for some reason come on at times when I activate my exhaust brake. I have a DTT built transmission and it has some sort of electronic device that substitutes for the transmission shift control under the drivers seat. I am on vacation and just have a bag of tools so lets not scare me I still have to hall the 5th wheel home. I cleared it and all seems good and this happen both time while I was not pulling the trailer just at a stop sign or light. thanks ps I only have internet a couple of time a day at the campsite.
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So I bought the Quadzilla with Iquad and I been holding off installing it because I have a lot of lopping and to me too much black smoke with the 50 hp new bosh bodies. Dont know if the surging is due to this or not, I plan on sending them back to get them checked to see if theres a problem going on with them. In the mean time I though I would buy new crossover tubes just to have a piece of mind that they are good to go. Question is what injectors would you suggest to run for fuel mileage and towing with the Quadzilla?
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