2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Anyone ever do a ram air intake on our trucks? Bhaf seemed to be a good help and a good friend swore by the ram air intake on his VMAX bike. I feel like it would help in our application (diesel no real air fuel ratio no throttle blade) but I know it's mostly a looks thing on regular gas cars. Just curious if anyone has ever messed with it.
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If anyone is near louisville ky i. Am cleaning out my garage. I still have parts from a 95 3500 Cummins and other assorted truck parts. FREE ****!!! And if anyone wants an AJC Chow have 2 black males available with all breading rights. Born on 9-11-21.
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Posted in 2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain Hello all ! Recently the p0122 came on my 99 cummins, with severe driveability issues, when the throttle is pressed it revs up then dead peddles, revs up then dead peddles. I found Moparmans P0122 test and was working down the list, got to step #6 and I'm confused now if I need a ECMor an APPS. The step is as follows "6. Check Dark Blue/ White wire for continuity between terminal no. 5 on apps harness and terminal No. 31 on ECMharness connector . If continuity does not exsist, repair Dark Blue/White wire" if…
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My plan was to take a screw driver and just collapse one side and pry it out, does anyone see any problem with that? Thanks
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Does anyone have the instructions to have high idle controlled off of 3 toggle switches and some resistors? They used to be available here but they have been taken down.
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Sorry guys, I posted the other day with a P1689 Code, which is now gone and hasn’t come back. Starts and idles great. Sounds perfect, just won’t rev over 2000rpm. I assume just waiting to pop back up. While watching live stream I noticed these voltage readings. Any ideas as to why, or what’s up? Grid heaters are unhooked by the way. IMG_3223.MOV
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I finally noted my fuel pressure on my 2001 work truck last week. I was surprised to see it bouncing around 10 psi. Also I was surprised that I have been too busy to notice for quite awhile. Looking in my maintanence schedule I see that both fuel filters have not been changed for 76,000 miles ! How did that happen I asked. As I drove home and fuel temps rose the pressure climbed to 15 still short of the 19 it was set for. It has to be making the lift pump work harder. Today both filters will be changed. Normally everything is watched closely on both trucks, kept on schedule but, I missed this one. Kinda shows a limit how long two filters working together can also help eac…
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So, 2000 RAM, 5 speed. I have bypassed the signal wire and jumped to 12v and engine starts, I have checked all fuses and relays (to best of my knowledge), I also jumpered the clutch safety switch which did nothing.... Wait to start light still works as expected, what would keep the 12v signal from making it to the starter? I know I can just put a push button in to bypass but I want to make sure this isn't a bigger picture issue. This literally popped up outa no where, stopped at a store, and when I got back in it wouldn't crank, I had to roll start it, luckily was on a slight slope. Thanks in advance. Tim
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Adding a Transmission Drain Plug When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it. Parts needed: 1 M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug 1 M12 x 1.25 nut 1 12mm ID plastic washer Paint (your choice type and color) Tools needed: Hammer Center punch Drill motor ½” drill bit Torque wrench 0-75 FT-LB or 0-300 IN-LB Socket to fit drain plug An automotive supply store like NAPA will have the M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut, and plastic washer. Using a strong (rare earth) magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, you can find the a…
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Hi guys, had a bit of a weird experience with my grid heater this past winter thought Id share incase someone else is having trouble. The intake heater wasn't working, the wait to start light would come on and cycle like it should but the volt meter never showed a drop. Checked the hot side of the relay, it showed 12 volts. Cycle the heater on no voltage at the heater terminals. Must be the relay. Replaced with new, same outcome. Took the leads off at the heater to check resistance, checked ok. Cycled the heater again and the leads showed 12v when they were not connected to anything. Long story short I needed to clean the lead at the battery terminal. Apparently it…
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So i just did new head bolts this weekend on my truck. I got grade 12.9 allen head bolts and grade 12.9 washers off mcmaster carr for 84 bucks. The bolts are made in italy and seem like real good quality. I replaced my stock bolts one at a time front to back torquing the bolts to 120ft lbs each time i changed one. I used arp fastener lube and tried to remove as much oil from the holes under the valve cover that had oil in them. This is where i might have messed up by not getting all the oil out of the holes. So 90 percent of the bolts torqued down just fine but some seemed to have a little slip like they would spin slightly more before clicking . Possibly due to oil on …
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I have read the FSM for changing out the center bearing on my 2-piece driveshaft, and looked in the Parts List in the Articles section (which is for 2001/2002). Part # listed is: 04773014. When I go to Rock Auto that part number isn't listed for 2001 models, just 2002 models. For both years, they list options with two different diameters (even when I've selected Diesel and Auto, etc.) 1.5748" and 1.3780". Is there a good way to determine which I need without removing the clamp for the rubber boot and putting calipers on the shaft? EDIT: The difference is in the Wheelbase. If you have a 138" wheelbase (Quadcab, shortbed), you get the 1.3780" bearing. If…
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It wont connect for some reason. I shut the truck off and it bypassed turbo cool down and wont reconnect. I can connect to my OBD link scan tool but not the Quadzilla. Checked my hot wire, grounds are good, fuse is good.
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My brother-in-law moved his 2003 2500 4wd NV5600 truck yesterday. While he was moving it, I noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Upon investigation we found the whole clutch fan assembly laying in the bottom of the radiator shroud. Not what I expected. The unit had unscrewed itself from the threaded pulley hub. The interesting part is that there is hardly any damage. The large clutch fan nut shows witness marks where the outside of the crank pulley was rubbing and two fan blades show similar wear from rubbing on the crank pulley hub. The fan blades never contacted the radiator or anything else (including the fan clutch thermal switch and wiring harness), wh…
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02 24v i swapped 5spd in place of the auto. Im still using auto ecm/pcm with no check engine lights. Occasionally the trans temp light stays on for a few min then shuts off. The throttle response is weird and Occasionally wont rev past 19-2000rpm. Apps checked out. I've been using the search function and have found that i need ecm/pcm reflashed? Does anyone know if this can be accomplished with a tuner? (Or do i need to find a manual ecm/pcm.)If so any recommendations? I already tried calling a dealer. They had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. Any advice is appreciated.
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My neighbor was driving my dodge the other day when one of the fan blades broke off and hit the radiator. I haven’t seen it yet but that’s how he described it. Anyone else had this happen?
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I'm finally getting motivated to install a new ATS T3 3-pc pulse exh manifold and ATS Aurora turbo on to my 2002 that I've had on hand for a while. Goal is to have a better spooling turbo for towing and a more durable/efficient manifold. Going to install the 2 things as a pair. Question is how to deal with the downpipe to the new ATS turbo. Currently my setup has a 4" downpipe connected with a flange coupling to a stock exhaust elbow to a HX35/Fleece turbo. What I' m anticipating is a few visits to a local exhaust shop to cut off the existing downpipe and then re-install the new down pipe that shipped with the aurora and then hope there's correct clearance to connect up t…
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Last night when leaving my son's football game, anytime I got over 45 mph it would do the TC lock/unlock. I also smelled a weird electronics smell at different times on the drive. Because of what I learned from this site I knew what to check first. This morning I checked the AC noise from the Alternator and it was .1 VAC I got it couple of years ago from NAPA so I pull it off and and head to my local NAPA. Unfortunately I couldn't find my receipt so another $170 later I am on my way back home. After installing the new alternator I check the AC and it is reading .0314 VAC (alternator post to negative post on battery). Much more gooder! I take…
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Quadzilla Adrenaline - Optimal Engine Temperatures for Efficiency Optimal Coolant Temperature - 190℉ Factory thermostats set to either 190℉ or 192℉ are fine and will perform satisfactorily for most Quadzilla Adrenaline owners. For the people up north, it's possible to see coolant temperatures drop out below 180℉ because of the natural efficiency of the 24V and at idle the Cummins ISB tends to run cooler. When coolant temperatures start dropping the thermodynamics of the engine will shed more of the heat of the burning fuel back into the excessively cold coolant jacket. Experimental 200℉ thermostat I've been running a 2012 6.7L 200℉ thermostat for the win…
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