2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

No, I don't have a write up for this but I will post the PDF document for the service manual. http://www.myholsetturbo.com/manuals/HX30_32_35_38_40_GW.pdf I'll admit it's fairly easy to do. You will need a very good pair of snap ring pliers. Everything else is a standard tools wrench and such. I did run into a snag and created a bind in the shaft. Make sure to put your thrust washer back in. Once I grab the manual and seen the exploded view of the turbo I knew right away what I missed. Sure enough dug into the ashtray I put all the old parts into and there it was. Slipped it on the shaft and it spins good. The 2 end are 12 points the turbine is 19mm 12 p…

So I'm picking up my truck, with its new VP44 on Tuesday and will be making a 12 hour drive with in on the following Sunday. As I was looking my truck over before sending it off, I noticed way too much residue in the mouth of my Turbo. Considering that I run a K&N, I was pretty surprised. Then I started reading around here and my Turbo looks pretty much like the one in Mopar73's article about BHAF. What I'm wondering is if I can use the tubin setup and heat shield from my K&N and get a BHAF to fit into the space? If anyone has done this or knows about the size dimentions, I'd really appreciate it. Normally, I'd just go get a filter and give it a go but, …

I know this is a dead horse but i need input from anyone that has experience. My current setup is HX35/ht3b, Edge juice (HOT) WAM, JL Machining 240hp injectors, Haisley head gasket with fire rings, ARP studs, 6 spd, SBC 3600 DD , 3.54 ratio. I think I have enough supporting mods for everything I have but I know the JL's are way to big for towing. I can easily stab 1500 in the back in about 3 seconds when I get on the juice. I have towed with this setup some but really have to be on top of it. I been there and done that and now I just want "usability" so I am fixin to order some new injectors from Jacob(diesel auto power) he seems to have some good prices. I have decide…

I have the first year of 4 wheel disc brakes. For those who have owned both disc and drum rears...are there definate advantages to the discs? Pro's and con's??? Enough of a difference to look specifically for 2001.5 and newer? Limits your options a lot!

Well gang... Mopar1973Man is down... I had a air system failure yesterday about Council, ID climbing the grade and passing a RV and heard. BOOM! Psssst.... As I let off the throttle the noise stopped. Get back into the throttle and boost might climb to 5-8 PSI, pyro going like a rocket, lots of black smoke and the noise returns... I stopped in New Meadows, ID for a moment to look and can't see the leak... so I stopped at the hardware store to pickup the stuff to build a boost tester. So I'll be fixing 2 leaks now A/C and boost...

Hi all, I have searched and searched for this info and I don't believe I have the answer. I need help. Short version: I need to replace stud and flange nut that hold my VP44 on. What sizes are they? How do I find them? Long version: I have been slower than molasses working on my VP44 replacement as I am not dependent on my truck for a living any longer. I went out to try and finish up. I lost one of the flange nuts that hold the pump to the mount. No big deal, I'll take an original to the parts store and get another. Well, it has turned into an ordeal. They tried it and said it was a 3/8" x 16tpi. Ok, order in 2, please. The…

I am having a problem with coolant getting into the oil so I am going to assume the headgasket is blown which blows. My oil is starting to get a greenish tint to it and I keep having to top off the radiator. So what kind of damage am I going to be doing if I keep driving the truck as it is? This is my DD as of right now since my car is down at least until next week and it sucks because we are suppose to be getting a lot of snow this weekend into next week. :ahhh:I hate to drive the truck as it is but I really do not have a choice. Sometimes I wonder why I bought this truck as it is causing me more trouble than good so far. All I have done is worked on it ughh! :bang…

Ok guys I am having to replace my head gasket and while I’m at it I decided to put in a new turbo..... after a ton of searching I am no further along in my quest to find the turbo I want. With all the sales going on next week I’d like to take advantage of it!!! -I would like 500 ish horse power -this is my daily driver -I tow a 10,000lb horse trailer once every other month -I’m running a FASS 150 -ARP Head Studs -HX40 down pipe -Quadzilla V2 tuning I’d like to pick the right turbo so I don’t regret my decision down the rd. I am torn between a few turbo sizes... -S364/68/.70SXE -S362/65/.7…

In my search for a better alternator i came across a post by ilya5903 on Cumminsforum.com about using a 2001-03 5.9 Durango 160 amp alternator. Today i hit Pull-a-Part and lucked out. They had 2 Durangos and one was a clean 02 5.9 with the factory alternator. $22 + $7 core. Had it tested on the way home and it works. Swapped the pulley and 15 minutes later its on. Definitely puts out more at idle than the stock 136 amp as i can now have all 3 air compressors, a/c, high blower, headlights and stereo on with truck at 800rpm in drive and had 13.9 volts. 14.2 at idle in drive with everything off. Factory pn 56029915AA. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-pow…

New annual member here. I'm hoping someone on this site can help figure out what's causing the stall issue. Without writing a novel, as I have on other forums, I'll be as brief as possible and try to provide as much info to help repliers and to ward off 50million posts that will just skew and clog this thread. In advance, no offense intended and I welcome all well thought thru replies, Thanks. I acquired my truck (wish I could figure out how to create a signature?) in May of 2001 it had 75k on it and bone stock. July 2001 installed gauges: combo boost/egt, fuel psi and trans temp. Spring 2003 with 130k trans started slipping, had DTT master rebu…

Hey guys, I always start hear first when I'm researching something on my 99 Cummins. This is my first post, forgive me if I am not posting in right area. My problem is my batteries die after about 3 days of sitting. Notice my seatbelt light is now on, my radio wont go off with the key, my alarm will not peep when I hit the lock button on the key chain and sometime my wipers and windows stay on when key is off? Please help thanks in advance Ryan

Ok guys I honestly hate to start another thread but I have a serious problem. It is the dead of winter and my 4x4 won’t work! The engagement stick moves into place but no dash light or 4 wheel drive! I need to get this fixed ASAP! I used it last week so it worked fine then. Help?

Which way is the nut threaded, righty tighty lefty loosey or the reverse? About to take mine off and dont want to drive myself crazy, I know its on there good. I have plenty access.

When i start the truck I have fuel pressure after about 15 seconds the lift pump shuts off and lose all pressure. I still have the wait to start light coming on i wanted to check the wire out of the ecm for power to the pump but I am not sure which wire it is. Any help would be helpful

I am going to start saving for some injectors but don't know much about which ones to choose, I have seen that there are different horse rated ones. I want something that I don't have to change the turbo asoon as I upgrade the injectors, but I also want to have enough power injectors for when I do upgrade the turbo. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks!

Hey guys. New to the forum here. I have a 1998.5 Cummins that has been in my wife's family since day one. My wife grew up getting to drive the truck to high school when her Dad wasn't using it for work. He also used it to tow his mega truck "Crawldad II" to events in the southeast. Anyways he passed away 2 years ago and my wife wanted me to make the truck my daily driver a remembrance of her dad. When I got back from deployment this past spring we flew to TN and proceed to drive the truck from TN to WA with no issues. I only flushed/changed the fluids/filter and replaced the brakes. Outside of that the truck drove great. About a month the truck started surging at idle. Wh…

Pulling the trigger this week on my transmission build. I've been looking at valve bodies, and was wondering what the difference if any there is between ATS and BD? Also looking at rebuild kits, and looking for suggestions. I'm picking up a used 47re for the valve body core exchange and to build then swap to decrease truck down time, and while its on the bench figured I'd go through it so I know whats going back into the truck. Plan for the truck is right around 475 horse. Other parts I'm considering are a Mag Hytech tranny pan, ATS input shaft, and BD low stall torque converter. I only want to do this once. I'm open to suggestions.

Installing a new deep oil pan and filter decided to replace all the solenoid and the 3/4 spring. I want to install the new overdrive and tcc solenoid without removing the valve body. Can this be done if I just remove the zip ties and reuse the original harness? Or am I missing something?

I am going to be changing my Exhaust Manifold in my 99 Cummins and not sure what to torque the bolts at. I was trying to search and came up with 23, 32 and 44 so I have no idea what it should be for a 99. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You

Hey all! This post my fall into the category of post whoring but I'd like to risk that in the hopes that it may help somebody else out when trying to decide what to do with their 47/48RE when it needs a bit of help. I want to be very clear here, the transmission in my truck had just a hair over 100k on it when I was contemplating this. I also know how it was driven since I know the PO of the truck. He didn't flog on it and took it in for service at the dealer every 25k just like clockwork. I felt very confident that it was in reasonably sound shape. I was experiencing TC clutch lockup slippage on the stock TC. It started when towing my 32 foot travel trailer b…