2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I've been having some problems with my AirDog. So I've decided to hardwire it with a toggle switch. But since it has the relay I don't know which wires go where. I know I can jump the yellow and red together to turn it on but what are the other two. Do I need to tie those into somewhere too?

I read in a thread on CF that the plastic style drain valve on the water separator that comes on Airdogs does NOT drain water; and that Pureflow has recently switched to a metal drain valve in order to solve this problem. I was wondering if any of you had heard of this, and if it's a prudent move to get a new water separator with this new style drain valve on it?

I recently had problems with my airdog turning off on me. I would un plug the relay and plug it back in and it would work fine for a little and then turn off again. I changed the fuel filter tonight after more miles than I'm willing to admit and its feeling a lot more responsive. Now the thing that's weird though is when I get around 7 lbs of boost it sounds like the airdog is spoiling along with my turn. I'm guessing it's because it's under higher fuel demand than when at idle. It's an Airdog 2 4G 165GPH. I put a WIX 33627 filter on it. It's been fairly quiet until now. Anyone have any ideas as to what it might be?

I installed my AD today. Took about 5 hours and I had to make a home made bracket. I now have 15.5 psi at idle and 13 if I get my foot to the floor.

Replacing the Airtex with an FRRP 100. The Airtex pump does away with the factory line that has a banjo type setup and just uses the quick connect fitting. I need this line for my FRRP to work but it is expensive....are there any cheaper alternatives? Assuming the P.O. just threw it out with the factory pump. I wish Airdog did the same as Airtex and did away with the banjo setup. Part number 8 in the photo....the line that has the support bracket on it.

What is an AIT Sensor and what is It's function. I am concerned about fuel mileage. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you, Kerley

Well a local rancher lost his injection pump (P1688) and what asking if I would do the job and install a new one... Of course not a problem for me. But as he's finding out after srufing the web and calling around he's having problems finding the VP44 in stock. So be aware parts are getting a bit tough to get at times...

Just changed my fuel filter, it was black, can't remember the last time I changed it. Fuel pressure was dropping with acceleration and boost wouldn't go much above 25psi, which it shouldn't with the fuel boss. Black granulars in the stock filter housing. Truck sits all winter and doesn't get used a whole lot in the summer, so I'm guessing there's algae. Anyone experience this? What's the best product to run? Bio Kleen? I'm going to change the filter again in a week or so and see what it looks like.

On a 4x4 I only see two adjustments for alignment, one next to gear box ( gets steering wheel straight) and the other by passenger side ( does tow in out ), if you don't count control arm adjustment. Am I missing anything? I measured tire tread front and back on level ground and my toe was in the front (both tires pointing in) so I adjusted it a bit and now it measures almost exact front to back before I had just over 1/4" longer in back. Anyone know where tow needs to be 0 or +- . Also why would truck pull right even in left lane if only one adjustment for tow, so no mater what, both tires should split difference equal and steering wheel would be off to left or right. Af…

I thought we could get a thread started over here where we could post pictures of our trucks for everyone to see. I know we can post them in the garage but I thought we could have a spot to throw up pictures so let's see them! Maybe if we get enough pictures being put up Mike will sticky it.

My truck died in the driveway several months ago. I ran it for a couple minutes to move it to the driveway. When I went to start it an hour later, it wouldn't start. I've since been tinkering with it for months. Replaced lift pump relay. Replaced fuel filter. Tested lift pump pressure (10psi, low, but should start) Unplugged and re-plugged: VP44, PCM, VP44 relay, apps, various connectors I could reach Replaced batteries with brand new. Added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. Originally, there wasn't anything I could do to start the truck. Then I learned how to hotwire the VP44 and the lift-pump relay. I was able t…

I replaced my APPS sensor this evening and went out for a test drive. I drove it harder than usual and noticed at WOT I can hear a flapping sound from the engine compartment. Kind of like shaking out a dry shirt. Only happens at WOT though. Fuel psi is 15 and boost is 28 at WOT. Also when I pulled into the driveway and slowed down the engine stumbled and almost died. Then came back to normal. Any ideas?

So while out running some errands today all of a sudden my truck started acting like it had a miss. I limped it home and pulled the codes to find a P0602 - ECM fueling calibration error. I cleared the code reset the ecm to stock settings and started the truck up and it's still there. I reprogrammed the truck to lvl 6 started it back up and still no change. Is there a way to check if its VP or the ECM? Thanks in advance to the help everyone.

Backstory: My original 211K alternator was outputting 35-45VAC and normal DC voltage. With some input from Mopar1973Man, all I could gather was that a diode in the rectifier in the alternator was really acting up, but the regulator was keeping the DC voltage in check allowing a AC waveform through. Speed up today: I bought a new premium NAPA alternator and replaced it. The voltmeter is reading a beautiful 13.9VDC, and 25.8VAC. ETA: The standards I have read online for an alternator is .09VAC MAXIMUM, and that if you are reading over that, your diodes are screwed up. I am so confused by this. Anybody have any ideas?

So i just did new head bolts this weekend on my truck. I got grade 12.9 allen head bolts and grade 12.9 washers off mcmaster carr for 84 bucks. The bolts are made in italy and seem like real good quality. I replaced my stock bolts one at a time front to back torquing the bolts to 120ft lbs each time i changed one. I used arp fastener lube and tried to remove as much oil from the holes under the valve cover that had oil in them. This is where i might have messed up by not getting all the oil out of the holes. So 90 percent of the bolts torqued down just fine but some seemed to have a little slip like they would spin slightly more before clicking . Possibly due to oil on …

Hey guys, Just messing around on the computer this afternoon and found something I hadn't seen on this forum, though I've seen this truck on here, and have also seen Mike reference it a few times, but I came across a video of it here: From what I've read this truck was hit and totaled? Still pretty cool to see it in the flesh. AP

I am stuck trying to figure out which one to get for my truck.. I have read and read. all I hear is bad things about the Raptor pumps, I have read bad things about the FASS direct replacement pump, I have read good and bad about the Fuel Boss, I haven't heard anything about the BD lift pump, but they don't even have a good description about their own pump. I am looking to do this in a costly manor. I cant throw down the coin for the fuel boss. don't know which way to do with this. I know I am bringing up a topic that has been brought up and talked about over and over. I just know that I don't know the condition of my factory lift pump. or when it has been replaced.. I am…

I've read the article but still unsure what to do? Does anyone have a clearer explanation?

I was typing up this long lengthy post about how great y'all are and how I've fixed all my issues on my 1998.5 24v. Blah blah then I lost it some how. Y'all are great! Thank you for all the content. Long story long I had shifting issues. I did the W-T wiring, rebuilt PCM and ECM from Auto Computer Specialist (recommended), and had altenator rebuilt, timbo apps. Day two of the great fix my 150amp breaker tripped and left me with dead batteries. I followed the How to Test Your Altenator post and while testing the blue and green wire i noticed my green wire test lite lit up on both sides of battery terminal...hum short maybe, i continued the test and notice conti…

I am searching for Moparman's Alternator "noise" test article. Cant find where it is. I want to check and see if my alternator is 100% or not Does Alt noise have to do with a bad diode? I saw a Alternator part on Larry Bs sight. (Diode pack / Rectifier Bridge for Deanso Alternator) Is that "the fix" if your Alternator is making "noise" I think I checked my alt a few years ago, before I replaced my TPS Rick