2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello Guys I have a 5.9 24 valve cummins in my F250. Im experiencing hunting at idle when in gear, worse when warm.Ive done the hot wire test and taking the ECM out of the equation and runs fine with no hunting, that said as expected no. I made up jumper wires from the VP44 disconnecting data link from the ECM and runs smooth but only 1000rpm....since doing the test Ive emphasized the problem, now I have skipping and bucking but no hunting up through the throttle range.Can only get fault codes from PCM not ECM ?...Im on the fence on whitch way to go APPS, VP44 or dirty signal from ECM....any help would be much appreciated..Im on the west of Australia …

So I came across a deal on a 90 gallon L shaped auxilary fuel tank to mount in the bed of the truck. It's used but still good. I have never had one nor mounted one in a truck. I was wondering if someone on here has had one and mounted it. Any tips on how to do so? Also, if you have one are you gravity feeding it to the main tank or did you install an inline fuel pump? I have a small inline pump on the shelf and was thinking about using it with this tank to fill the main tank with a flip of a switch. Thoughts?? I'll be getting the tank sometime over the weekend so I'll post up pics once I have it. Thanks for any input.

Hey all, title says most but will go into more detail. sometimes on startup, the engine will start, then die for half a second and come back on. Like if you were to turn the key off while running and quickly turn it back on. This happens occasionally and then a few weeks ago, it would start and then die after a few seconds. It did this a few times before it was just cranking. Finally got it started and it ran fine. This has all occurred after my o Reilly vp pump replacement … and I’m definitely worried it’s the pump. Any insight is appreciated!

I need to quickly getbny throw out bearing changed before leaving for a trip tomorrow. Thinking of I pull both cross members that I should be able to pull the trans and transfer case as one unit with out draining the fluids that are brand new. Has anyone done this?? Is there enough room? I have a HD trans jack, so I'm not worried about weight.

Recently I've been getting after some much needed maintenance on my 24v. So while I replace my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump seals I'd like to throw in some valve springs, valve seals, head studs, and any other seals/components I can get to at the same time. I know the valve guides are known to wear on 24v's so I'll make sure to take a peek at those too. I just rolled over 200k. So my questions are: What seals should I use for the valve stems? I hear something about CR seals being used as an upgrade? What other components/seals should I be replacing/inspecting at the same time?

I will get intermittent dead pedal when driving above say 60mph with light pedal pressure.. I also get this weird hanging up when revving the truck in neutral it will rev up just fine then hang up at say 2000rpm then come back down..all of the issues show up after some amount of highway driving. Drives fine on short trips, long trips it's constantly cutting out at some point. The hanging up thing worries me that something mechanical is ****** up. How often does the control unit fail vs mechanical on newer units that have been fuel starved at some point? I have a new fass 150 pump motor and so VP44 installed less than 10,000 miles ago. I did b…

Has anyone ever measured the amp draw of a VP44? I have been having some weird issues with one I just bought, so I did some logging and what I'm seeing is that it pulls about .2amps when it is idling smooth, then it jumps up to between 12 and 18 amps and the engine starts to run rougher, then it drops back to .2 and smooths out again. I'm curious if that is normal or the sign of a bad pump. Luckily I have a Blue Chip VP44 that works great, and I'm building a brand new ultimate bullet proof engine, so if this one is bad its not the end of the world...

I’m finally getting around to installing a FASS Titanium unit (that has been on a shelf for quite a few months) on my 2001 manual transmission 4x4. This pickup still has block mounted lift pump. I’ve disconnected electrical plug from the factory lift pump . Where should I put the fuel line from new pump? Inlet of preexisting block mounted filter or inlet side of injection pump. FASS instructions say directly to injection pump. I had some previous advice that said to connect it to inlet side of filter housing. What are the advantages and or disadvantages of either? TIA . Kevin

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 2wd dually and i started hearing what i thought was a wheel bearing when i turn left. I jacked up the passenger side and checked for any play in the wheel and felt the tiniest bit of play in the bearing(or so i thought) i did the passenger side front inner and outer wheel bearings the inner bearing race had one pea sized spot that was all fuckered up like someone hit it with something by accident, the outer looked fine but replaced them both and the seal. Well after getting everything back together it seemed to still have that little bit of play so i looked further and found the top ball joint to move ever so slightly. Well after driving the n…

Got a good story for you guys. Had a bad ecm that worked on the truck for a week or two, then intermittent no start. Put a loaner ecm and started right up, but had limited peddle as it was a fleet truck and derated. I used that for a few months, and then took it to a Cummins Workshop today to have it flashed back to factory settings. Now, the loaner wont fire, and my family had to drive 5 hours to get two different ones. Now, neither of those will fire also. I am completely confused as to what is going on or what the Cummins company could have did, and my truck is stuck at the Cummins shop. Thanks.

I am desperate for any help. I have a 1999 Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins, and when I first bought it, it had delayed wait to start. I didn’t know what this meant at the time, but it wouldn’t start at all after a week or two. I put in a loaner ecm and it started up great, and runs okay. Three months later, I’ve rebuilt the original ecm twice, and still nothing. Loaner ecm is still in and working, but seems to have developed some dead pedal. Hot or cold, after 40-50 mph, it only accelerates through the gears slowly after that, even if I mash the pedal. Could it be excessive AC noise killing them? Or two bad ECMS? Awesome truck, but I don’t want to dump thousands …

I was towing a trailer last night and noticed that my brake lights were not working. I've dug into it a little bit. Ive tested all the fuses and they're good. I've done continuity test on the brake switch and it is good. i have turn signals and 4 way flashers, but i don't have any brake lights. Any ideas?

Hey all, need urgent help. It’s been awhile since I’ve posted which means things have been pretty good.. just got home and a few blocks away I saw a little blue smoke. Nothing at idle but saw a good amount of oil blew out the crank case vent, about to check oil level now as oil pressure was lower than normal at idle. I figure it got burned on the exhaust cuz the top valve cover had oil from I’m assuming the fan blowing oil everywhere. Freaking out because I’m supposed to be towing a 10k trailer on Wednesday. Gonna check vacuum lines and make sure none came disconnected and whatnot as well as check oil level. Oil is about to maybe hit 5k mark.

My truck recently started having a intermittent loss of power, usually before the engine warms up. It also seems to be easier to stall while backing up a hill with a trailer. The check engine light never came on, but it did throw a P0216 and P0602 code. The first time I cleared the codes, there was an episode of intermittent power loss and both codes came back. The 2nd time I cleared the codes there was no power loss, and only the P0216 code came back. The truck is a 2001 5 speed. I replaced the VP-44 last year with a DAP pump and added a FASS lift pump. I currently have 15-17psi fuel pressure. The alternator is about a year old, and is a 16…

So I was finally able to make the time to install my 3 in 1 gauges from gloshift. Before you hate on gloshift, this was a gift from my daughter for Christmas. Took a little while to get it done, it was rather warm today (89°F / real feel was 95°F). I did get it finished though. I mounted the gauge in the supplied pod above the instrument cluster for easy viewing. The needle shows boost, in the small LCD screen is displays the exhaust gas temp and the fuel pressure.

Sorry if this has been discussed before but I tried searching and nothing came up. I hear the front wheel bearing humming so time to replace them. I've replaced them once already with Detroit Axle units so I'm wondering what brand everyone has had luck with?? '01 2wd abs with drums in the rear. Thanks for any input fellas & have a great weekend

HI all, I found info from MoparMan on puting the in the 5amp inline fuse to the blue wire of PCM for protection. I am trying to find more info in regards to putting in a similar protection fuse for the ECM and Vp44. Has anyone done something like this? Long story short both had died on me and have been replaced. I'm going to clean all my grounds etc. but would like extra protection. The W-T mod is on the urgent list of things to do as well (along with AC noice testing)- I found articles in regards to it and MoparMans video on AC testing. Is there a video on the W-T mod?

I was typing up this long lengthy post about how great y'all are and how I've fixed all my issues on my 1998.5 24v. Blah blah then I lost it some how. Y'all are great! Thank you for all the content. Long story long I had shifting issues. I did the W-T wiring, rebuilt PCM and ECM from Auto Computer Specialist (recommended), and had altenator rebuilt, timbo apps. Day two of the great fix my 150amp breaker tripped and left me with dead batteries. I followed the How to Test Your Altenator post and while testing the blue and green wire i noticed my green wire test lite lit up on both sides of battery terminal...hum short maybe, i continued the test and notice conti…

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 5 speed 2wd dually and my speedo randomly stopped working. I towed my camper 150 miles it worked the whole way to the campsite then the truck sat for a day and a half and the speedo randomly stopped working when we went for a drive. Also just a piece of information my abs light and brake light on the dash have never worked. I checked the 40amp abs fuse and it was fine. Any ideas what it could be? Just odd it randomly stopped after sitting. Could it be the sensor on the diff or wiring going to it or could there be another abs fuse that could be it?

Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it…