2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello, I just finished rebuild my 47re on my 2001 dodge ram 4x4 cummins diesel. What I have done: I changed all the piston servo with billet aluminum ones. put a transgo diesel shift kit, alto red eagle clutches, changed front and rear bands. A new torque converter and changed the cooler lines. The transmission shift in all position but it's like slipping . When I'm starting from a stop when cold I need more throttle to move the truck and when it's warm it's less slipping. I put a gauge on line pressure and in drive not moving I see 80psi but when I go on throttle the psi doesnt increase? is it normal? I'm thinking of throttle pressure adjustment on the valve body?…

Ok well we'll see if I can keep y'all engaged here... The pull was from Katy Texas, Camping World RV to San Antonio. About 188.2 miles according to Google Map. For those who may not know, it's flat, with rolling hills (I use that word loosely, big mounds of dirt is more like it). This will come into play later. Here is my set up and whats in my sig. It sat nice. I did pre-hook up measurements with my airlift bags. They were as fallows: From the concrete to the bottom of the receiver hitch on the bumper 5 psi - 21 3/4" 50 psi - 23" 70 psi - 23 1/2" 90 psi - 23 7/8" (100 psi is the max but I just did 90 for 20 psi increments) Here …

Finally... I yanked out the old 1st Generation switch set... Man talk about a historic part. This is where the entire high idle started from. I'll most likely hold on to this forever. Neat to look back on history and see where we came from to where we are going. ECT Fooler (up fooled - down normal) IAT Fooler (up fooled - down normal) MPG (up) / High Idle (down) 3/6 Cylinder mode (3 cylinder up and 6 cylinder down) Now install the new Mopar1973Man High Idle Kit... I will admit so much nicer to have that plug at the switch. One wire basically to stuff through the firewall and easy to do. Takes a few minutes to install. It ac…

I have noticed the last few days that my truck just skips 4th gear unlocked and goes straight to 4th gear lockup. Shift great and doesn't slip. Just wondering if this is normal. Soon as it goes from 3rd locked it shift to 4th locked with maybe 2 seconds of 4th unlocked. If it's in 4th locked and get on it or pull a hill it drops to 3rd locked, not 4th unlocked. Normal for everyone else or naw?

I'm digging into my rear brakes tomorrow. I had one side open the other day to replace the auto adjuster and I have a hunch they've been assemble wrong the last time. Does someone have a diagram of how it all goes together? Like which shoe is the front one, how the cable for the adjuster is routed etc.

Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Wyoming Posts: 5 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Score: 0 reviews WYOMING5.9ISB's Truck Pics White/Bluish Smoke Problems help.... I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 With 160k I recently am having problems with it smoking on a light acceleration until about 30mph. It stops smoking until I let of the throttle at about 60mph. then the smoke just dumps outta the pipe. I tried a hard accretion and no white smoke what so ever. Even wh…

Everyone says to add 1 oz per gallon of fuel. What is everyone using to measure or store their oil in their truck prior to filling up? I have used 2 stroke for the last 3 or 4 years in my old 12v and now in my 24v. I have always just carried the walmart gallon jug in my toolbox and I used the hose part off of one of these funnels: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FTL0/10704/N0027.oap?ck=Search_funnel_N0027_-1_1567 . The hose and valve unscrews off the white funnel part and is the same threads as the gallon jug. I always kinda guess how much oil to pour in depending on how low on fuel I am but have never measure it out. Sometimes the hose funnel doesn't seal well o…

after a long and arduous battle, my vp44 has been replaced and seems to be running like a top....good fuel pressure and such....but after letting it sit for about a month, I now have to crank it pretty hard to get it to start, almost feels like it has air in the lines however I have torqued, checked and re-re-double-quadruple-checked all the lines and they are all holding fuel....?? my second question, just after I replaced my vp the first time with a used pump, that failed shortly there after, my 47re started having issues shifting out of first!! I thought it may have been a clog in the valve body, it sat for a while, but a good ****** of the valve body with brake clean …

Hi Guys, O.K. WT modification and did the 150 Amp circuit breaker modification 6 months ago followed up with the Fuse in the field wire. Got in the truck and drove to the post office 98 deg. AC on full. Come out of the post office and cell phone charger is flashing Low voltage. Volt meter is to 0. Stop get out and reset the circuit breaker, it had tripped. Get on to freeway and drive to next town for dentist app. Bam the voltage drops to 0. Pull over after getting off the freeway, reset circuit breaker. Turn off the AC, roll the windows down. Start Truck and we get 14 volts. Drive for a bit and the Faulty gauge idiot light comes on, still ha…

The high idle kits are going to handed back to me for production. All future production of the Mopar1973Man.Com High Idle Kits will be produced right here in Idaho. As soon as I get all the parts and pieces from Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) I'll start producing them. So I know some of you are hoping for more to be produced and seeing DAP running out of the flat mount version. So hang in there more to come very very soon.

I've been reading all about 2 cycle oil and now I'm wondering if anybody has experience with or can you tell me anything about how Powerup Gen49 fuel additive measures up. http://www.powerupusa.net It's supposed to be the real deal and I have a neighbor who sells it so it's real handy for me to get.

Not having trouble, just happened to take a closer look at the VP44 today and noticed that it looks like it may have been replaced. I say this because I know how aluminum will oxidize over time (truck is an '01) and this looks way better than I would expect for an almost 20 year old piece of aluminum to look. The fittings attached to the pump look fairly new also. Just wanted some other opinions so please see the 2 pics I took. It actually looks better in person.

Hi all, I need some guidance, but first my story how the problem came to be. The first part of September we went to the midwest (Iowa) from Utah with a 2700lb camper in the back. Truck was running fine. First stop in Sidney, Neraska I noticed what looked like a large wet spot on the drivers side rear wheel well cover. Looked like I ran through a puddle, but no rain or puddles insight. Checked under the hood and did not see any problem. Checked under the truck in the morning and no leaks or spots on the ground. Ok so far so good. Next stop in Lincoln, Nebraska and the wet spot had just about disappeared. Got to Altoona, Ia. and still ok. The weath…

So i thought i'd go out and remove the silencer ring today for kicks (not a big difference in whistle IMO ) and this is what my turbo looks like. Is the oil residue normal,and if you look close it looks as if the impeller or whatever you call it, rubs the housing, but I can spin it and it doesn't scrape at all even though it awefully clean where it spins. I pull in and out with no movement that I can tell and maybe a hint of up and down movement. On a last note, sorry to beat this boost elbow to death but the picture with the elbow and the hose coming off it, is that where I install the new one? Here's the turbo pics Which of the three here is the one to get, or…

Is it time for a new turbo? I have less than a 1 to 2 mm of play side to side. No play in and out. New noise sounds like a bad belt tentisioner. This happens when developing boost or decreasing boost. The sound is coming from where the turbo is located. It is building boost and running fine. It feels like the boost is coming on slower than normal but that could be in my mind.

I just had my NV4500 rebuilt and installed it with the bell housing on, put on the slave cylinder, clutch felt a little loose go to put into gear and it will not go into gear Clutch goes almost to floor before I feel pressure What could have been misaligned ? I felt the splines go in, and the drive shay would turn, etc Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks

So Im looking for a new clutch I like working with DAP, so I emailed them this: Also need to figure out which clutch I need to get. When I bought the truck I was “told” it had a dragon flow vp44, 6x18’s, .093 lines and tubes, ham cam, springs, and 64/71/14 turbo and all the supporting mods and more. I did verify I have a valair competition dual disk (sintered iron) for pulling, I have taken all the electronics off of it and the only thing I havent verified is if the vp is infact a dragon flow… It does still have a ton of power so it might have it. I don’t plan on racing or pulling with this truck just a occasional driver or weekend truck and pulling a go…

On my 01 it jumps a little at idle, what's going on? I never payed to much atten. to it.

I have a 99 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 diesel and I am getting codes, PO237PO251PO252P1688P1693 I know what they read, just not sure I know where to start first. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Does anyone here know how to set up traction bars for towing? I know the axle moves backwards as weight is applied, so I'm curious if I should unhook the bars, load the trailer, then hook em back up and set the pre-load on them........ Any advice is appreciated!