2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Truck died and will not start. Checked fuel pressure, 10 psi. Decided to change fuel pump to Airdog FRRP-100. Now with Airdog FRRP-100 pressure is at 10 psi (which I believe is low for priming pressure) with Airdog pressure screw all the way increase via screw. Cracked VP44 return line banjo bleed than tried to bleed at 1,3,5 but pressure was low very little flow. What would cause the pressure to be so low? There seems to be air still in the lines and can't seem to get it out- think be cause the pressure is so low. I did change the VP44 out in December & fuel pump (Airtek) ~year ago any suggestions?

I normally invoice all my work but I couldn't remember when the last time I'd changed the engine coolant. I came across these coolant test strips for $7.99 and free shipping. Tried them out and seam to work well telling me my coolant is over 60% antifreeze and the Ph is 7.0. It not recommended with red or orange coolants. So spending $8 has saved me over $45 in antifreeze and distilled water and an hour of labor. With 50 to a bottle the average vehicle owner has a life time supply. https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466743866&sr=1-1&keywords=coolant+test+strips

I finally beat my old MPG high mark of 27.20 now done it twice with 27.22 and 27.46 MPG. Just need that little bit more to go to reach 28 MPG.

Gents, I think I am going to pick up a set of Fast coolers from Genos Garage. Since they come in sets of two would anyone be interested in buying the other one? I don't think I can fit the passenger side with the 5" exhaust. I just want the pre-tapped hole for the temp sensor, and some extra cooling. If no one wants one it's going up for sale on the classifieds here and on CF. I'd be willing to pay more than half since I would be getting the one that's tapped. @Mopar1973Man if you're interested PM me and we can work an even lower price since you keep this place running! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fc-6-spd-dg/transmission-coolers

Hay guys could you give me a national seal number for the the transfer case output I'm 99.9% sure mine has the np241DLD but everyone keeps giving me the larger seal I'm assuming for the DHD

Hi guys, I've just finished my rebuild 47re and it has a flaring shift from 3rd gear to 4th? Would like to know what could cause this?? Don't want to messed with it again!!!! Thank you!

Hey guys, need a lil help here. So i had to do some serious tear down of the truck to get to my tappet cover. I found that it was leaking back when i did my rear main crank seal last time i was underneath the truck. Needless to say to get to the tappet cover you have to pull the injection pump and lines 1,2, and 4 so that you can get the vp44 out of the way. I was very careful when i was removing the vp44 to make sure that I didnt drop the key down the timing cover. I aligned the key-way with the TDC mark on the top of the timing cover so that wouldnt happen. Removed the pump and went about my business. On re-installation i put the pump back in made sure everything…

I'm relocating my ddrp pump close to fuel tank ,need to make a 10' cable what size should I go with?Does anybody knows how many amps the ddrp2 draws at 16 psi?

Hey guys, so I've had my edge comp for a little while now and I'm starting to experiment with settings for fuel mileage. I also have 75hp injectors. On 3x5 I got 17.5 over the course of a week. Then I tried 5x2 because of what Mike said in the past about 5x5 being best, but I had to use 5x2 to keep smoke in check. I will be filling up today, but so far it looks like I got right about the same for mileage. Shouldn't I have gotten better? My route and driving style didn't change.... I also read some really old threads on other forums that were talking about unplugging the wire tap to get less fuel and more timing at the higher levels. Is this something I sh…

Yesterday my wife and I were out running errands, heading home on the highway when the truck began to sputter, blow blue smoke, and then completely died. We got towed home and how I'm starting to diagnose the issue. Background - About 700 miles ago the truck was throwing a P2016 code. I installed a filter / new lift pump from NAPA, and a new VP44 from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland. I also replaced the crank position sensor while I was there. The installation went well, and the truck drove with renewed strength; even towing a 10k RV trailer for over 350 miles. Here is what I know now: There are no engine codes throwing The V…

So a few of you know I've been dealing with smoke at idle on my truck. Long story short every theory has been touched on. Last action was redoing the exhaust valve seals for no change. However I still have a oil looking ride Comming outing #1 exhaust . It looks like oil .... but obviously could be fuel with soot. 99% this is cause of my smoke at idle. I'm waiting to have a phone conversation with bill W&F.... but entertaining ideas of what I'm I'm for if I remove head. Considering parting out otherwise.

So guys. Have loss of power steering fluid (none left) . So Im guessing I need to pull the vaccuum pump/PSP assy out and reseal etc. However when I was thinking about it - I realized I dont get how the whole system works ...... someone shed more light ? Some questions. 1) Most people replace for the oil leak that occurs for the oil feed line to the vacuum pump. I'm sure I probably have this also ..... but I'm talking about loss of PS fluid in resevoir. So ? Do the seal replacements generally take care of PS side leaks ? Dont want to pull the assay only to find PS leak is something else. 2) How does this tie into larger system…

On my way home from town I set the cruise and the truck started bucking and jerking on cruise control. Cancel cruise control throttles fine, Set cruise again bucking and jerking. So I pull over unplug the field lead and drive home. No issues at all. Pull out my Fluke DVM and measure at the BATT terminal of the alternator and was getting 0.244 not a typo... So of to the part store again to get another alternator under warranty.

I have the first year of 4 wheel disc brakes. For those who have owned both disc and drum rears...are there definate advantages to the discs? Pro's and con's??? Enough of a difference to look specifically for 2001.5 and newer? Limits your options a lot!

I had a new torque converter installed about 50,000 miles ago. I'm not real happy with the low stall aspects of it. When you shift into gear it hits pretty hard. My question is...if I installed a towing valve body which increases line pressure, will the shift into gear be even more exaggerated? Is this adjustable at all? Would installing a new valve body increase the life expectancy of my 47re? It's got 215,000 miles on it. I tend to baby the transmission. I don't lug it much. Tend to keep rpms higher when under a heavy load. Third question...with the upgraded valve body can I get more control of shifting? Obviously I can select 1,2 and lock out overdrive. But the control…

I want to start off by saying a huge thank you to @Mopar1973Man for providing this excellent resource for the ram community! I had the P0122 code and the truck would just randomly turn off after a few minutes of running. Would happen whether parked, driving, on a hill, on flat gound, under acceleration, and deceleration. It didn't matter what the truck was doing, it would just turn off. It started off doing intermittently and then just got worse and worse to where it happens quite frequently. I replaced the factory APPS with a Timbo APPS and did the learn procedure. It seemed to fix the problem. But after a while the CEL would return. Then started the random d…

Did a clutch swap in my NV5600 and lost some of the fluid. I just changed the fluid last spring so would just like to add to it to get the proper amount rather than draining it out and putting new in. (Fluid still looks clear) No idea how much I lost so don't know how much to put back in. Top it off until it comes up over the gears be a stopping point or is that too much? I should add I know theres the plug on the side to check, but I cant remember how far up past the plug it went last time I put the extra bottle in..thats why I ask the question thanks

The sage of the leaking cooler lines continues. In Dec 2014 replaced the hard line from the cooler to the transmission, it started leaking. Thought it was the rubber hose with the PITA connector. Bought a replacement from NAPA, it leaked worse than when I started. Took it back apart and found it cracked by the ferrule in the hard line. NAPA replaced it under warranty. Now the line from the front cooler to the block mounted cooler is split. The replacement line is 95.00 NAPA/ 67.00 AMAZON. Just frustrated. Anyone changed out all the line for something different?

What's the best way to clean the puke bottle overflow out of the radiator? I have a power washer, but not a steam cleaner. I realize it needs to be taken off the vehicle for access.

Well gents I have put over 30,000 miles on this truck since I purchased it and I have had an interesting knocking noise. It is beginning to bug me so I plan on finding whats causing it. I have been told cracked flexplate, loose converter bolts (checked a few days ago all tight), loose flexplate bolts on the crank and even cracked pistons. The engine has over a quarter million miles and there is some mild blow-by (within spec) and oil analysis shows low wear metals. The transmission is built and the converter is custom (triple disk billet). Injectors are currently 4% balanced and of course the wrong VP44 . Any ideas please let me know. I would prefer to not p…