2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

A friend of mine has a 2001, the problem is that he developed a small coolant leak from the front of the head between the head and block. We re-torqued the bolts and it helped, but still seeps! Anyone ever just replaced the bolts and torqued them to factory specs? Can you get the rear ones out? Are studs a better way to go? Obviously he should remove the head do some work, we are hoping for something less stressful!

Couple items I am having trouble with. Have an 01 with 190,000. 50hp injectors and a newish DTT Assassin lift pump. Original VP as far as I know. I do run 2-stroke at 1oz/gallon. Ever since I installed the assassin lift pump I have been having trouble with consistent fuel pressure. For those that don't know the DTT is a mechanical fuel pump that drives off the harmonic balancer, so in theory, as rpms increase so does fuel pressure. I have yet to see this happen. Right now I will idle at 17psi and drop to 10psi when I get into the pedal. I changed out the fuel filter a couple times and when I do the problem goes away for a day or so, then returns. I was curio…

I was driving in hot weather up hill last week (dont know if temp related), when the "Check Engine" light came on, I noticed the volt meter was all the way down to the left most line (same as engine off position). When I arrived at the top and started on the decent; I noticed the overdrive does not work (auto trans), also the cruise control is not working, and the trans appears to slip on take off. Referencing the PCM (power control module) info; the pcm controls the above items, I have not noticed any other items on the list malfunctioning. Before I spend $400 or more for a new pcm, I would like to make sure it is the module or bad connection, ground... What is …

I just replaced my intake manifold gasket, checked/adjusted the valves, and swapped in some injectors (on the truck in my sig....). The truck starts, runs, and drives, but I have a check engine light with the P0222 code (APPS low input voltage). When scanned, it actually shows two P0222 codes. I erase the codes, but they immediately come back. Any ideas on where to start looking?

I need some help doing a very simple task but I just can't get it done. Getting old is a real bummer but I guess it is better than the alternative. This is my problem. I am attempting to install my new battery cables and I can not figure out how to un-plug the Alternator ground plug. It is located at the bottom of the left battery. I know it comes apart by squeezing or twisting the male from the female. There is one wire from the alternator to the battery neg. From the battery neg. there are two wires. One to the fender ground and one to the control box on the firewall. Both wires run through this plug and I do not want to break it, but I cant see how it comes apart. Is …

Holy Crap! Scared the **** outta me! Not just once but several times... when you're not expecting it. Yeah, our camping trip week. I left wife setting up the tents! I had a big dose of yellow pine pollen & seasonal allergy response... an immune response. Multiple Sclerosis is an auto-immune disease. So my symptoms are increased right now. I'm not well enough to camp. I was planning to commute to camp... day tripping for me... towing my landscape trailer each day with my big scooter on it... so I can really get around camp... especially hauling a cannon... To salvage the vaca, I am borrowing the inlaws F word Explorer. I will need the truck to …

I received the 'dread' P1688 - but when reviewing the various threads, it is often accompanied by a number of other fault codes and usually the poster is stating that the engine won't run. My CEL came on ....but other than a code that can be reset (engine off) - but returns when engine is running - the truck drives and the VP pumps. I expect I will have to replace the VP.....but I don't want to rush and replace it if there might be something else to check and maybe something else might be the problem rather than the VP. I did read discussions about alternator problems where a bad (shorted) diode could create an AC component on the DC - and 'fry' electronics. I checked …

Will i haven't been on for a long time thought i would start with a fun post. So I am see what other have paid to replace there rear ends. Also what brands you have gone with in the rebuild. I have three shop in my area give me a ball park low end was 1800 and high end was 3200. So far i have found pieces of my posi and i had one piece of a shim out of the pinion come out. As far as brand I can get Yukon, Nitro, and one place orders from Randy ring and pinion. Sad is this will be the first thing on this truck in 300k that has been done in my drive way. I have never been into a rear end. So any one in Washington a master rear end installer.

So in order to complete my conversion kit for my he351ve swap, I'm having trouble deciding which exhaust manifold to use. I'm trying to figure out whether or not I will see anything negative with running the 6.7 manifold than the 5.9l. Flow restrictions, etc. Sound is not a huge deal since its all going to change anyways. I don't want to keep mulcher hanging by a string, lol.

I've been driving my 02 3500 6speed dually for a year and I have yet to appreciate these stupid flip up mirrors. Am I the only one who feels this way? Visibility just blows regardless of flipped up for towing or tucked down in granny mode. I'm tempted to take them off and put the old school mirrors on. Has anyone tried modifying these mirrors? Thanks!

ok guys just found my front diff cover is leaking so im going to pull cover and re seal what do yall recommend using to seal it and what oil to put back in

My problem started out with the normal od lock and unlock issues. I cleaned all the grounds and tightened them and did the same with the battery terminal connections. That seemed to solve the problem for about a week and a half then it started again. I ended up replacing the APPS and that worked for all of three days. Recently I have replaced the alternator along with the brake light switch. Now when I drive it if I barely accelerate the rpms will shoot way up to 2500 or so. It will shift normal when doing this however it will usually start the od lock and unlock a few minutes later. it will lock and unlock several times before downshifting a gear and sometimes staying in…

I am posting this for my friend (neighbor to my mother). He has a 24V Ram, '01 I think. Anyhow, he has been fighting the lock-unlock problem for a while. I had him pull the alternator fuse and try it. Same thing, no change. I also put a multi-meter on the alt to test for AC voltage and it was .013 volts at the highest. I suggested checking the trailer plug and possibly the brake light switch. He did say that if he cleaned the battery terminals and reset the APPS it might be good for two months or two days. What else should he check?

Hello all! I have developed a hard start/ long crank after the truck sits for awhile, even if just over night. I thought the bat's where bad so I had them checked and they were good. They guy at the local shop that does just starters and alternators has a 2nd gen. Cummins and thought it cranked a little slow so I put in a rebuilt starter.( I took it apart when I got home just to see and they did put in oversized contacts like the ones from Larry B's ). WOW! It cranks almost twice as fast now. Thought I solved my problem but the next morning it still cranked for 3-5 seconds til it started. Used to be it would roll over 1 time and light off and it is still that way when it…

So hear it is the best i can figure. I went out camping on 7-2 half way to our destination the truck started rolling coal like no tomorrow. I could fog out 4 lanes of traffic on a dangerous 6% grade, but if I could get on top of the RPM's it was fine. 1600 RPM's or better i made sure the overdrive was off, my T/C lock up switch was off. If I would just apply a very little amount of throttle and i mean less than 1/4" of movement it would start to haze then just roll black. All of the issues seamed to be with me hooked up to the trailer that weights in at 7600/lb. So I limped it home on 7-11. Then took the truck out for a drive well the issue is still there. Took it out to …

I recently went through the whole T/C lockup problem and found it to be a bad ground. I fixed the issue and no problems until today. It started going in and out of lockup in 3rd and 4th but not like it was doing before. Before it was at steady throttle now it does it at different throttle positions. Also I just got a P0336 code. My question is will a Crankshaft Position Sensor cause T/C lockup issues or am I getting the code because of T/C lockup problem?

I have a 98.5 4x4 5 speed that is box stock truck with 200k miles and was wondering what the max boost would be if I put a boost fooler and a boost elbow or just capped of the waste gate line. I am not looking to make goobs of power but wondered if I will see any power increase or if it will hurt my engine in any way . From what I learned many years ago as a owner operator the more air with the same fuel rate would drop the EGTs. I have installed a full set of gauges and will be ordering a Fass DDRP in a week or so. I can get a max of 20 PSI at wot before it defuels or opens the waste gate or both and if there is any more power to be had I would to be able to use it if ne…

I have been looking for the Crankcase Vent on my 98.5 24 Valve Cummins. I can not find it so I looked in the Haynes Dodge Repair Manuel. On page 2B-8 photo 9.3a it shows a 1994 thru 1998. On page 2B-9 photo 9.3d it shows a photo of the 2000 model. No where does it show or refer to a 1998.5 or 1999 Crankcase Vent. The oil filler cap on the valve cover does not appear to be vented, there must be a Crankcase Vent some where on this Cummins. Any one know?

Put a stick through the bottom of my radiator last night.... @#*&* Just got on and was browsing through for some internet options and one thing I am seeing quite frequently is the option of a 2 row or a 3 row radiator...Never having the pleasure of having to pull one I am ignorant to what is in there, although I am assuming it must be a 2 row because I can't see them offering anything less than OEM standard. That's surprising to me, I always ASSumed it was at a minimum of a 3 row or a 4. I'm guessing due to the surface area, a 2 row was sufficient for these motors. I wouldn't mind upgrading to a 3 row but the truth is I have NEVER seen my truck overheat and the 3 …

I've decided to go a different route on my truck, so I am going to sell my HE351CW turbo. I figured I would post this turbo on here and see if anyone was interested in it before throwing it up on CF. It came off of an 05 cummins with about 130xxx miles on it. I got it, built a manual wastegate for it (I have pictures of everything) and put a batmowheel on it. What do you guys think it is worth? I have the cost of the turbo, 400$ in the batmowheel 60$ in the wastegate plug from DAP and a few other odds and ends. If anyone here is interested PM me and we can talk. If you have a guess of what is is worth let me know! Thanks - Tyler