2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Holy Crap! Scared the **** outta me! Not just once but several times... when you're not expecting it. Yeah, our camping trip week. I left wife setting up the tents! I had a big dose of yellow pine pollen & seasonal allergy response... an immune response. Multiple Sclerosis is an auto-immune disease. So my symptoms are increased right now. I'm not well enough to camp. I was planning to commute to camp... day tripping for me... towing my landscape trailer each day with my big scooter on it... so I can really get around camp... especially hauling a cannon... To salvage the vaca, I am borrowing the inlaws F word Explorer. I will need the truck to …

I received the 'dread' P1688 - but when reviewing the various threads, it is often accompanied by a number of other fault codes and usually the poster is stating that the engine won't run. My CEL came on ....but other than a code that can be reset (engine off) - but returns when engine is running - the truck drives and the VP pumps. I expect I will have to replace the VP.....but I don't want to rush and replace it if there might be something else to check and maybe something else might be the problem rather than the VP. I did read discussions about alternator problems where a bad (shorted) diode could create an AC component on the DC - and 'fry' electronics. I checked …

Will i haven't been on for a long time thought i would start with a fun post. So I am see what other have paid to replace there rear ends. Also what brands you have gone with in the rebuild. I have three shop in my area give me a ball park low end was 1800 and high end was 3200. So far i have found pieces of my posi and i had one piece of a shim out of the pinion come out. As far as brand I can get Yukon, Nitro, and one place orders from Randy ring and pinion. Sad is this will be the first thing on this truck in 300k that has been done in my drive way. I have never been into a rear end. So any one in Washington a master rear end installer.

So in order to complete my conversion kit for my he351ve swap, I'm having trouble deciding which exhaust manifold to use. I'm trying to figure out whether or not I will see anything negative with running the 6.7 manifold than the 5.9l. Flow restrictions, etc. Sound is not a huge deal since its all going to change anyways. I don't want to keep mulcher hanging by a string, lol.

I've been driving my 02 3500 6speed dually for a year and I have yet to appreciate these stupid flip up mirrors. Am I the only one who feels this way? Visibility just blows regardless of flipped up for towing or tucked down in granny mode. I'm tempted to take them off and put the old school mirrors on. Has anyone tried modifying these mirrors? Thanks!

ok guys just found my front diff cover is leaking so im going to pull cover and re seal what do yall recommend using to seal it and what oil to put back in

My problem started out with the normal od lock and unlock issues. I cleaned all the grounds and tightened them and did the same with the battery terminal connections. That seemed to solve the problem for about a week and a half then it started again. I ended up replacing the APPS and that worked for all of three days. Recently I have replaced the alternator along with the brake light switch. Now when I drive it if I barely accelerate the rpms will shoot way up to 2500 or so. It will shift normal when doing this however it will usually start the od lock and unlock a few minutes later. it will lock and unlock several times before downshifting a gear and sometimes staying in…

I am posting this for my friend (neighbor to my mother). He has a 24V Ram, '01 I think. Anyhow, he has been fighting the lock-unlock problem for a while. I had him pull the alternator fuse and try it. Same thing, no change. I also put a multi-meter on the alt to test for AC voltage and it was .013 volts at the highest. I suggested checking the trailer plug and possibly the brake light switch. He did say that if he cleaned the battery terminals and reset the APPS it might be good for two months or two days. What else should he check?

Hello all! I have developed a hard start/ long crank after the truck sits for awhile, even if just over night. I thought the bat's where bad so I had them checked and they were good. They guy at the local shop that does just starters and alternators has a 2nd gen. Cummins and thought it cranked a little slow so I put in a rebuilt starter.( I took it apart when I got home just to see and they did put in oversized contacts like the ones from Larry B's ). WOW! It cranks almost twice as fast now. Thought I solved my problem but the next morning it still cranked for 3-5 seconds til it started. Used to be it would roll over 1 time and light off and it is still that way when it…

So hear it is the best i can figure. I went out camping on 7-2 half way to our destination the truck started rolling coal like no tomorrow. I could fog out 4 lanes of traffic on a dangerous 6% grade, but if I could get on top of the RPM's it was fine. 1600 RPM's or better i made sure the overdrive was off, my T/C lock up switch was off. If I would just apply a very little amount of throttle and i mean less than 1/4" of movement it would start to haze then just roll black. All of the issues seamed to be with me hooked up to the trailer that weights in at 7600/lb. So I limped it home on 7-11. Then took the truck out for a drive well the issue is still there. Took it out to …

I recently went through the whole T/C lockup problem and found it to be a bad ground. I fixed the issue and no problems until today. It started going in and out of lockup in 3rd and 4th but not like it was doing before. Before it was at steady throttle now it does it at different throttle positions. Also I just got a P0336 code. My question is will a Crankshaft Position Sensor cause T/C lockup issues or am I getting the code because of T/C lockup problem?

I have a 98.5 4x4 5 speed that is box stock truck with 200k miles and was wondering what the max boost would be if I put a boost fooler and a boost elbow or just capped of the waste gate line. I am not looking to make goobs of power but wondered if I will see any power increase or if it will hurt my engine in any way . From what I learned many years ago as a owner operator the more air with the same fuel rate would drop the EGTs. I have installed a full set of gauges and will be ordering a Fass DDRP in a week or so. I can get a max of 20 PSI at wot before it defuels or opens the waste gate or both and if there is any more power to be had I would to be able to use it if ne…

I have been looking for the Crankcase Vent on my 98.5 24 Valve Cummins. I can not find it so I looked in the Haynes Dodge Repair Manuel. On page 2B-8 photo 9.3a it shows a 1994 thru 1998. On page 2B-9 photo 9.3d it shows a photo of the 2000 model. No where does it show or refer to a 1998.5 or 1999 Crankcase Vent. The oil filler cap on the valve cover does not appear to be vented, there must be a Crankcase Vent some where on this Cummins. Any one know?

Put a stick through the bottom of my radiator last night.... @#*&* Just got on and was browsing through for some internet options and one thing I am seeing quite frequently is the option of a 2 row or a 3 row radiator...Never having the pleasure of having to pull one I am ignorant to what is in there, although I am assuming it must be a 2 row because I can't see them offering anything less than OEM standard. That's surprising to me, I always ASSumed it was at a minimum of a 3 row or a 4. I'm guessing due to the surface area, a 2 row was sufficient for these motors. I wouldn't mind upgrading to a 3 row but the truth is I have NEVER seen my truck overheat and the 3 …

I've decided to go a different route on my truck, so I am going to sell my HE351CW turbo. I figured I would post this turbo on here and see if anyone was interested in it before throwing it up on CF. It came off of an 05 cummins with about 130xxx miles on it. I got it, built a manual wastegate for it (I have pictures of everything) and put a batmowheel on it. What do you guys think it is worth? I have the cost of the turbo, 400$ in the batmowheel 60$ in the wastegate plug from DAP and a few other odds and ends. If anyone here is interested PM me and we can talk. If you have a guess of what is is worth let me know! Thanks - Tyler

Is there a wiring extension that can be bought that will allow me to install my code reader plug to my dash for easy access?

I finally isolated oil leak , seal between vacum pump and power steering pump is leaking, ordered parts. Has anybody done this without removing vacum pump, just removing steering pump? Just curious if it is possible. I don't have a problem taking both off, just wondering if it is necessary. Thanks

I have only pulled real heavy a couple of times with this truck and both times my engine temperature gets pretty hot when pulling steep grades for a long period of time. During these grades I try to keep my EGTs around 1100-1200* but my engine temp spikes--getting real close to the 240* mark on the guage. As soon as I get over the hill and am able to maintain my EGTs at a much cooler temp the engine cools down as well. I flushed my radiator aboout 7,000 miles ago and it runs around 190* normally, and no leaks. Is this normal or should I be looking at blocked air flow through the radiator?

Not sure if this in in the right catagory. I stopped for fuel this morning and noticed this new fuel was available along with the regular diesel. I am not a fan of additives I don't know about. I googled it and there is a lot of info but its over my head. Anyone know what this is about and should I consider using it or just stay with the regular fuel. Of course water and dirt are always a concern for anyone with a diesel. Regards Chris

Some might remember me freaking out about my radiator rusting up so fast. Well I can tell you this, don't ever use radiator flush even if it says its ok for aluminum. It might ok for aluminum but it dang sure not good for the rubber seal around the tanks. New radiator 191.00