2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

motor stumbles when under slightest load. slow acceleration no problem. video attached explaining everything that has been replaced and tested

Thank you for your time. Im a new member with which may be a stupid question. I own a 2001 2500 auto. A few months ago i shut my truck off and it never restarted. I had no fuel to the fuel filter housing. I had my lift pump replace with an intank unit, first mistake, second i had someone that in my opinion now wasnt able to do the the job. After that didnt work a new injection pump installed, no luck. A computer diagnostic ran, no luck. I have no codes but truck will turn over but still wont run. After towing the truck home, i discovered a short in the power door locks fuse which controls the ctm. My truck has the anti theft feature but didnt have any symptoms before the …

I have an 01 dually,that I bought from my mother after my dad passed away last year from brain cancer. The truck had sat for about 8 months,and after I had driven it for about 4 months,the lift pump failed on the way home from work,and the truck died and I had to tow it home. I replaced the lift pump,but I still couldnt get it to crank and run, it was getting fuel to all but the #1 cylinder. I checked for trouble code but it didnt display any,because the engine light wasnt on. I bought a lift pump and replaced it. I still cant get it to crank,but I did get some codes this time,they are P-1693,P-1689 @P-0122. Is there something I did wrong or something else wrong with the …

Finally got my FP gauge installed correctly. Had been using the isolator but I could never get it to work right or for very long. Now I am direct to the gauge. 18.5 @ idle 16 @ wot. Stupid questions. If I start to notice a drop in pressure do you just pull over and shut it down? I think I read it takes 14 to open the overflow on the IP to cool the IP. So less than 14 you pull over and shut it down ? I know that sounds dumb but now that I have the FP just want to know what it is trying to tell me to do. If your LP went out completely the reading would be 0 correct ? You shouldn't be getting a reading from the IP sucking the fuel correct ? Thanks Rob

I guess I never really thought about it, I believe I read it was an hy35 and then in 2003 when the switch up to the CR stock was the hx35...I know I've heard alot of good things about em and I was wonderin what would be a good/my best option for upgrading my turbo...Can the hx be a direct swap?

Hi everyone im pretty new to the whole forum thing as you can tell. I have been having some issues with my truck recently and cant seem to figure it out so that is what led me here as i know mopar1973man is a very reputable person throughout the forum community. I have a 1999 2500 24 valve automatic with the dreaded VP44. The truck is stock other than a five inch straight pipe. When I purchased the truck the man told me that the IP had been replaced before an gave me that receipt which says it was done around 150,xxx. Earlier I went out and started my truck let it warm up for about ten to twelve minutes an went on my way might i add it is around 48 to 50 degrees here whe…

As the title states, she pops and stutters when I free rev her. Has done this since day one of when I bought the truck. It doesn't do it under heavy throttle, or when I'm cruising steady,just when it's idling and I rev it. I figured it was the junk edge tuner, and a new tuner would help. But it still does it, even when warm. It does puff gray smoke when it stutters, but clears up after a few revs. It reminds me of having a car with a carburetor that has a stuck float, you have to rev it because it "loads up". What could it be? MAP Sensor? My cel is on but it's from my apps sensor, and I have a new one ordered. Even before when there were no codes it still stutt…

So I've owned the truck for about 3 weeks now. I've changed the fuel filters, oil change, all fluids bumper to bumper are at the right levels. It has a stutter that I can't quite isolate. I don't think it's a fuel issue because it fires right up, never struggles to start. Happens when it's cold more but still can happen when it's at temperature. If I could take a stab at it I would think it's the throttle position sensor because it happens when you barely touch the throttle for the first little bit then if you get on it more it smooths out so I would think rather than being a smooth climb (if you were to graph it) it would have a gap at the bottom and then be smooth the …

So I've been battling this 01 into a 99 swap on my weekends for the past month or so. (Didn't know I bought the wrong Year) Got her runnin. No tach. Bought the destroked kit which BTW is not made for this swap. Slotted the holes so that the missing 36th tooth is 60deg BTDC. Drilled out the sensor bracket to fit the stock crank sensor. Soldered in some more wire for length and viola. I now have my tach working but I'm blowin white-ish smoke. Unplug the relocated crank sensor and no smoke. I'm thinking that my crank sensor being about 120deg from where it would normally sit in the block is fudgin me up. I'm sure the tone ring is lined up right but I guess the ecm needs to s…

I got a 2001 24v with 150hp injectors air dog150 with sump kit at wot 15 lbs quadzilla programmer and a year old hot rod pump the problem I’m having is when I get on my truck and let off slowly is dies and I gotta crack the lines to get it to fire up and body know why it’s doing this thanks

I have a 1999 2500 24 valve.. Approx a year and a half ago I replaced the injection pump with a remaned one from thoroughbred diesel and a fass ddrp lift pump. About 3 weeks ago I fired up my truck after it was sitting for about 2 hours. I drove about a block and it started spitting and sputtering. I opened my water valve on the filter housing and air came out then fuel. It fired up and ran fine after that and was back to normal for a day or two. It then did the same thing again and I again opened the valve and air came out, it then fired up and ran fine. Now it's happening every time I go to drive it. There are no codes and my life pump pressure is superb at 15 idling an…

Hey fellas I'm back, but I have a problem! When I'm driving down the road, I'm getting a real hard sucking air sound from the intake side! I'm running now psi on boost, but the turbo sounds like it is really spooling! All boots seem to be intact, although there is one that I am kind of worried about!

My 1999 24 valve at highways speeds seems to have no throttle response. Up hills truck can drop a bit below speed and when I give fuel nothing .. hit flat ground and away it goes .. truck pulls and shifts flawlessly at non highway speeds .. 23lbs boost, no lower then 10psi fuel, any ideas? It’s embarrassingly be able to be put pulled by a gasser you hill on the highway Check engine light not on

I already have the fass titanium 150 but when my truck reaches half a tank it starts acting unlike most post are about the 1/4 tank issue mine is the 1/2 tank issue. I have noticed that with a full tank I get 16 psi on my fuel gauge but once it's half a tank it ranges from 15-21 psi which I have been told that u either need a needle valve or a snubber due to not having either or which is that correct? And would the sump kit or suction tube help my 1/2 tank issue thanks

Merging onto highway, truck running just fine. Get to 55-60ish and sudden loss of power, not decreased, nothing. Rpms looked ok, think i hit it to see if it revved, but now I cant remember if it did. I remember thinking that i just lost my trans. But in tbe dame moment my engine was dead. I was only trying to stay safe and no longer diagnose. As i coastef up different offramp, i had it in N and tried to start.cranked but no start. Stopped it, i turn key on,i hear a motor upfront. Try to start. Engine cranks, but doesnt start. W key on, i am reading no oil presure on OEM gauge. Well, needle just comes up a little but is still touching red zero line. Oil seems ok,…

Hey again guys. Picked up a '99 2500 today with a few issues, chief amongst which is the converter not locking up. Overdrive works just fine. I began troubleshooting today, but I could use some input. It had a bunch of codes before I began measuring, most seemed to be related to the previous owners lockup switch because once I removed the jump between the relay 30 and 87a pins, and installed a relay in its place the codes could be reset and wouldn't come back. Now, according to the previous owner the lockup suddenly stopped working, not gradually. Solenoid assembly is new, and I've checked the contact at the transmission, it looks good and clean. When I measur…

I have never had my truck give any issues starting. If anything it starts easier/quicker than any diesel I've ever driven. After it sat from Sat eve to Monday afternoon in an uphill position it did not want to start. I pushed in on the clutch and let it roll to a more level surface and this didn't seem to help. Finally after just letting the starter crank for a bit it came to life and drove home without any problems. Little puffs of smoke were coming out while cranking. Any ideas for me to look in to? (Still a stock truck) Some possible things of note: the check engine light is not on but it has come on a few times in the last few months but then w…

Upgrading your diesel. In order to upgrade your diesel from stock, you should have a baseline of readings in order to know what has changed. Also, if you do multiple upgrades at one time and something goes wrong, you will not know which upgrade caused the problem or error code. In order to know what is happening to the engine, you should have at the minimum compliment of aftermarket gauges. At the minimum for Dodges, you need a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and EGT gauge. Those with automatic transmissions should also have a transmission temperature gauge. With these gauges and a stock engine you will proceed to gather information as to how well the engine…

Summer is about here... Time to look into a few things... Cooling system flushing New thermostat Power washing the radiators and coolers out New fan belt Check the freon pressures in your air conditioning Check the radiator hoses Check the idler pulley bearings including the fan Inspect the fan clutch for leaking oil Time to check over the truck and prepare for a nice hot summer. So don't neglect your truck take the time and inspect these different areas to be sure you have a enjoyable summer either towing, RV'ing, or just making back and forth to work.

For any looking to install a boost guage, Sunpro makes a decent 30psi guage installed on my 2002 ram works great cost is around $40.00 locally in Tn. (AUTOZONE)