2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey everyone! I have a 2002 Dodge CTD auto with 277k. I’m getting the “no bus” message on my odometer screen with codes 900 920 921 940 950 and 999 on the self check. The CEL, ABS, low fuel and air bag lights are on. I’ve cleaned up the connections at the PCM and fuse block, cleaned grounds and still no fix. The truck does start and drive normal so I don’t believe it’s the PCM. Any input is welcome thanks!

I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec. Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units? Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan? Thanks for any ideas/ tips

I had a TC bolt back out sitting in the case/adapter hitting the flex plate, fixed that. Used red loctite on everything, all bolts are tight, billet goerened flexplate installed. Still getting a rattling sound when the torque converter is locked under load. I think the noise is coming from the TC, not the motor, because it only makes noise in lock up. Hard acceleration in 1st 2nd and 3rd is noise free. Truck idles fine, no abnormal noise. After doing some reading, some cummins people complain about ATS torque converter rattle and early 7.3s too. Anyone ever heard of this? Converter is a DPC triple disc. Transmission shifts fine, no slipping to my knowledge. @Dynamic? …

does any one know what causes a wait to start light delay

So I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 24v. Put all new injector lines and vp44 on Saturday. Drove truck all day Sunday while shutting off/ restarting multiple times. Monday rolls around and drive the truck to work, go to leave work 12hrs later and truck won’t start. Have to bleed lines to get it to start. Tuesday morning have to do the same thing. Tuesday evening can’t get the truck to bleed and notice the gauges don’t work and LP won’t turn on by key. Come back Wednesday morning and truck fires right up and everything works. Get codes 1389, 1899, 1492, 1693. Go to leave work later that day and truck fires up and I let it idle for a couple minutes while I do stuff and get in to …

Changed map sensor out now getting code of low circuit voltage and code won’t clear... what could be my problem thanks for the help in advance!

So I got a bad vibration starting around 15mph until 40mph. Shakes the drink holders, mirrors, and feels like it's under the floor board. Almost like front drivers side. I think I got a bad u joint. The one that comes from the transfer case to the front end. (No idea how to get that off). I can push that drive shaft up a little bit and it clunks. Also my carrier bearing has some play in it. Idk how much is ok or if it needs to be tight. Any help or ideas is much appreciated!

So I hauled a small trailer and some lawnmowers today and after I got everything unloaded I went to unhook the trailer well when I shut off the truck I can hear gurgling from the fuel tank. No pressure was relieved when I unscrewed the fuel cap but I can hear the fuel moving when it gurgles. Then it did it again when I got back home and parked it. Normal?

I have white smoke when I start up. Smells like oil. Doesn’t matter the outside temp. Also when I accelerate (under load) there a haze of white smoke but clears up when I get to speed. Doesn’t matter if the Quad is on or off. It did this with the old 75hp injectors and still with the new 150hp injectors. No loss of coolant or loss of power. The head gasket and ARP head-studs where replaced last year. Had the head rebuilt while it was off. Any suggestions? Appreciate the help.

The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the fact…

The root issue I am having is I am getting the APPS low voltage code. How I realized there was an issue is my BD exhaust brake intermittently will not work at low rpms (and it changes minute to minute what rpm it will cut out at, but usually around 1000 rpms). I checked codes through my Edge Insight and got the APPS low voltage code. So right now, I am leaning towards thinking it is alternator related, but my initial quick test in the parking lot at work doesn't agree with that. I'm going to break up my post into each little point, otherwise I ramble on a long confusing paragraph. Previously, my exhaust brake acted up my batteries tested as being poor to m…

Last year broke elec connection to fuel sender. Dont want to break any more. Any help correct way? Here is pic of connector to one of the wires from passenger side battery. Afraid to apply pressure the wrong way. Plastic puzzle to me. Little numbers 11184 on connector. Do they need special tools... or what's the secret! Thanks

There's some plastic clips that hold the trans. cooler lines and keeps them separated and in place so they don't rub. The one clip attaches to an oil pan stud. During a maintenance inspection I noticed mine broke and the line is rubbing through. Got a new line and hose coming from R A. Anybody know where I can get those clips?

2001 2500 2wd auto cummins. Out of the blue while everything seems to be OK. Temp 180 checked by laser heat gun. The check gauges light comes on and temp gauge goes to 240 in about 10 seconds. Turn it off and back on temp slowly raises to 240. This happened as soon as I started it and engine is cold. Last week the ck engine emoji came on and water in fuel. I drained the filter and saw no water. ???? Bad ground?? anybody seen this happen?

Recently my truck has began having an issue where it takes a few seconds of cranking before starting where as before it would start as soon as you hit the key. I do have to wait the wait to start light comes on primes the pump and then goes off before cranking. If i don’t wait for the light come on and go off it will never start. When the truck has been sitting it always starts right up, but for example if I’m running errands in town and shutting it off and restarting that’s when it takes longer to start. At times it’s not started at all, so I let off the key and the pump comes on for 20 seconds or so and it starts right up as long as I crank when the pump is running. …

This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned o…

In March the transmission had a no or delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift condition. The transmission and cooling lines were flushed, the 3-4 accumulator spring, along with the governor solenoid and pressure/temperature transducer replaced. The fluid was changed to Valvoline synthetic +4. The transmission shifted great after the repair. The end of July I go on a 1000 mi "camping trip" pulling my 5th wheel with the boat behind it. I find out that I have no torque convertor lock up! This had happened once before in May of 2018 for about 10 miles. Now, cruising at 60 mph the RPMs are1900±; when accelerating from 60 mph the RPM increase rapidly to 2400-2700 d…

How to solve the codes and the idling problem.

Today I decided to mess around with my edge OBD style programmer and uploaded the economy tune onto my truck. I had taken a trip on the highway the other week and wanted to see if I could get better then 16.5mpg. I started my truck and drove to work. It drove fine and started normal to me. After a few start ups throughout the day, I noticed that the WTS light was delayed, instead of coming on as soon as the key was turned on like it has been doing for the past 8 months I’ve owned this truck, it took about 5 seconds for it to come on. When the light came on, my fass lift pump also kicked on. I tried starting before the light kicked on and the engine would just crank. I fea…

The lead part on battery that goes to battery broke, I cut cable back about an inch. I dont see any visible corrosion. (Drop voltage test?) When I put one end of the now cut off lead lug i lose 1 volt at other end. And with volt meter i can get a beep doing a continuity test. Any suggestions for a proper elec test in order to ensure stock cable good or not. Thanks