2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have had a big line kit for the filter housing to the VP44 for some time and want to install it. I have 2 “T’s” to splice into the rubber line in order to install the fuel pressure port. One is for the Quadzilla fuel pressure and the other is to the manual gauge on the pillar. Anyone see a problem with having two taps close together on the rubber line? Right now I have the banjo tapped on the VP for only the manual gauge.

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plu…

Several days ago, my truck died while cruising at 60mph. There was no warning, pops, knocks, or clunks. The rpms dropped to idle then a few seconds later dropped to zero. Truck had full power until it died. Fuel pressure is good. Only throwing the p1693 code.I believe it to be a ground issue. The truck radio lost memory after sitting overnight and turned the am radio on. I'm looking for wire diagrams or someone who has maybe had a similar issue or any ideas. Anything will help!

Did 400 mile today into South West Wales to drop of my house build reciepts for a tax accountant to process my tax reclaim... we get 20% Vat back on new build house materials costs, my truck must have smelt the £££ as on the way back in lockup OD accelerating a little uphill engine seemed to just stop for less than a second but then back to normal with a clunk as the trans was driven again.... that is the best I can describe it, just like a manual trans and coming off the throttle and then straight back on it , I hadn't got the Modis with me so couldn't check anything, but no codes on dash, I don't think the trans is dropping out of drive as engine revs do not rise…

Hey everyone! I have a 2002 Dodge CTD auto with 277k. I’m getting the “no bus” message on my odometer screen with codes 900 920 921 940 950 and 999 on the self check. The CEL, ABS, low fuel and air bag lights are on. I’ve cleaned up the connections at the PCM and fuse block, cleaned grounds and still no fix. The truck does start and drive normal so I don’t believe it’s the PCM. Any input is welcome thanks!

I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec. Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units? Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan? Thanks for any ideas/ tips

I had a TC bolt back out sitting in the case/adapter hitting the flex plate, fixed that. Used red loctite on everything, all bolts are tight, billet goerened flexplate installed. Still getting a rattling sound when the torque converter is locked under load. I think the noise is coming from the TC, not the motor, because it only makes noise in lock up. Hard acceleration in 1st 2nd and 3rd is noise free. Truck idles fine, no abnormal noise. After doing some reading, some cummins people complain about ATS torque converter rattle and early 7.3s too. Anyone ever heard of this? Converter is a DPC triple disc. Transmission shifts fine, no slipping to my knowledge. @Dynamic? …

does any one know what causes a wait to start light delay

So I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 24v. Put all new injector lines and vp44 on Saturday. Drove truck all day Sunday while shutting off/ restarting multiple times. Monday rolls around and drive the truck to work, go to leave work 12hrs later and truck won’t start. Have to bleed lines to get it to start. Tuesday morning have to do the same thing. Tuesday evening can’t get the truck to bleed and notice the gauges don’t work and LP won’t turn on by key. Come back Wednesday morning and truck fires right up and everything works. Get codes 1389, 1899, 1492, 1693. Go to leave work later that day and truck fires up and I let it idle for a couple minutes while I do stuff and get in to …

Changed map sensor out now getting code of low circuit voltage and code won’t clear... what could be my problem thanks for the help in advance!

So I got a bad vibration starting around 15mph until 40mph. Shakes the drink holders, mirrors, and feels like it's under the floor board. Almost like front drivers side. I think I got a bad u joint. The one that comes from the transfer case to the front end. (No idea how to get that off). I can push that drive shaft up a little bit and it clunks. Also my carrier bearing has some play in it. Idk how much is ok or if it needs to be tight. Any help or ideas is much appreciated!

So I hauled a small trailer and some lawnmowers today and after I got everything unloaded I went to unhook the trailer well when I shut off the truck I can hear gurgling from the fuel tank. No pressure was relieved when I unscrewed the fuel cap but I can hear the fuel moving when it gurgles. Then it did it again when I got back home and parked it. Normal?

I have white smoke when I start up. Smells like oil. Doesn’t matter the outside temp. Also when I accelerate (under load) there a haze of white smoke but clears up when I get to speed. Doesn’t matter if the Quad is on or off. It did this with the old 75hp injectors and still with the new 150hp injectors. No loss of coolant or loss of power. The head gasket and ARP head-studs where replaced last year. Had the head rebuilt while it was off. Any suggestions? Appreciate the help.

The subject matter has been discussed for years and all diesel enthusiasts/owners know how important it is to maintain proper levels of fuel pressure via the "transfer pump" or Lift Pump for reliable operation. There are many requirements that each owner/operator may wish to achieve in replacing the OE Carter or perhaps making an aftermarket selection. Notably, most have had the rude awakening of a failed VP44 following the failure of the Lift Pump in a too late scenario. The cost of a VP44 compared to the Factory (Carter) Lift Pump is considerable and many of us have learned the hard way. The general consensus among the vast majority is to eliminate the fact…

The root issue I am having is I am getting the APPS low voltage code. How I realized there was an issue is my BD exhaust brake intermittently will not work at low rpms (and it changes minute to minute what rpm it will cut out at, but usually around 1000 rpms). I checked codes through my Edge Insight and got the APPS low voltage code. So right now, I am leaning towards thinking it is alternator related, but my initial quick test in the parking lot at work doesn't agree with that. I'm going to break up my post into each little point, otherwise I ramble on a long confusing paragraph. Previously, my exhaust brake acted up my batteries tested as being poor to m…

Last year broke elec connection to fuel sender. Dont want to break any more. Any help correct way? Here is pic of connector to one of the wires from passenger side battery. Afraid to apply pressure the wrong way. Plastic puzzle to me. Little numbers 11184 on connector. Do they need special tools... or what's the secret! Thanks

There's some plastic clips that hold the trans. cooler lines and keeps them separated and in place so they don't rub. The one clip attaches to an oil pan stud. During a maintenance inspection I noticed mine broke and the line is rubbing through. Got a new line and hose coming from R A. Anybody know where I can get those clips?

2001 2500 2wd auto cummins. Out of the blue while everything seems to be OK. Temp 180 checked by laser heat gun. The check gauges light comes on and temp gauge goes to 240 in about 10 seconds. Turn it off and back on temp slowly raises to 240. This happened as soon as I started it and engine is cold. Last week the ck engine emoji came on and water in fuel. I drained the filter and saw no water. ???? Bad ground?? anybody seen this happen?

Recently my truck has began having an issue where it takes a few seconds of cranking before starting where as before it would start as soon as you hit the key. I do have to wait the wait to start light comes on primes the pump and then goes off before cranking. If i don’t wait for the light come on and go off it will never start. When the truck has been sitting it always starts right up, but for example if I’m running errands in town and shutting it off and restarting that’s when it takes longer to start. At times it’s not started at all, so I let off the key and the pump comes on for 20 seconds or so and it starts right up as long as I crank when the pump is running. …

This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned o…