2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My 24 valve is a RWD and not a 4x4. I have one tire pulling and would like to change that to a limited slip so both would pull if needed. I have been stuck in the yard of a house we rented after heavy rains. I had a rear end changed over to limited slip by a garage that was supposed to be best. After parts and labor it was a shocking $1,200.00 and that was back in the early 90s. It went out in less than 9 months, completely shot. I wished I had done it differently. So with all of that being said should I seek out another Master Mechanic to add the parts to make it limited slip or find a rear end from a yard and go that route. Maybe as long as I stay on solid ground it wil…

Today, after FLUSHINg P/S System, i Pulled of my 4-yr old BHAF Air Filter to replace with new, When i pulled Boot off of turbo, there it was,, the Compressor wheel blades were Damaged, "Not wiped out" but few of the edges of blades are frayed up pretty good, but there's no excessive play in the shaft and the blades hasn't been rubbing the housing.... im trying to post pictures

HowdyMy third post, yee ha. I did my research, made sure I had the correct coolant, followed the procedure and turned the engine on to get vacum to turn heater on. I drained it but when I refilled it, it only took 4 gallons. I was told with refill, it was 5 to 5.5 gallons. Any thoughts? also, some FYI, I had to replace my ball joints, and track bar at 60,000 miles. I put Moogs on so am hoping these will last. MarkFlagstaff, AZ

I replaced my turbo with this one. http://theturboplace.com/-S200GX-E-Dodge-Ram-Upgrade-Turbo--12769880001_p_290.html And replaced the manifold with a stock one. It had a crack in it at on the flange where the turbo mounts on. Now I'm getting a plume of white smoke upon acceleration. Have't tried driving it. The truck only has just over 100k miles on it. Fuel pressure is at 15 PSI at idle. Which is what it was before. I'm running Bosch RV 275 injectors which I put in in Oct 2018 I have no error codes. What should I look for next? Any ideas would be appreciated.

I experienced code 1688 a while ago and also experienced a dead pedal (completely dead, does nothing). yesterday I replaced the 44 with a new one, got the truck running but the pedal does absolutely nothing. any ideas? thanks, greg

I guess I'll be changing a IP next week so I have been reading over manuals to see what I'll need. I don't have a gear puller, I found this one on Geno's http://www.genosgarage.com/product/cgp010/tools. Is there any reason it wouldn't work? Something better? Also, I figured that I'd put in a fuel pressure test adapter since I don't currently have that option. Maybe it will come in handy. Thoughts?

Anyone have any opinions on what to use and how to go about this process? Thanks.

Is there any block or port lower than bottom radiator hose? First time I used drain plug in radiator had heck of time getting it back in. So I've been disconnecting lower hose on radiator for years. If there is block drain I'm thinking about screwing in a shut off valve. Good idea or no.

I am changing the thermostat in my truck today and didn't know whether or not to put some sealer on the bolts for the thermostat housing.

For the un-educated, like myself ...what are the plus and minuses of going from VP44 to a “P pump” or a "VE pump on a 2001? Recently talking with a guy that loves his. But he is into lots of horse power and mod’s. For the a stock everyday driver would the change be any good? I’m totally confused. He was talking VE and P pumps. Is going to a “P pump” or “VE pump” a horse power or dependability mod? Or maybe not even a upgrade and just create more problems? I did a search online and seemed to me people heavy into mods, a different type of pump might help them. But not sure about someone like myself that just wants to remove as many known weakness and hass…

This morning before work, it had been a few days since driving the truck. I go to start it, and it's dead! Had to quick charge it and get going on the road with about 70 percent charge. Get home and go to top the batteries off and check voltages. The terminals are getting corrosion. I just recently cleaned the terminals and re sprayed them. This happened in the duration of time from today. I can see how having the alternator do the Charging could cause am excess of venting from the battery? I checked every cells specific gravity and one Had a different value than the other battery but not by much. I can't remember by how much since I did it when I cleaned the te…

thank you for looking, this is my first post after joining this forum. I have owned this CTD for a few months after purchasing it from a private seller and is my first diesel. my problems currently have started with loaning the truck to my younger brother to take to school. He left the lights on all day and came back to a dead truck. I believe while having jumper cables hooked up he was able to crank it over but had no start. it is cold but i filled with winter blend the night before, no gauges installed yet but i have a FASS titanium. my brother determined the alternator was bad (not sure how), it was bench tested as 'good' from O' Rileys although they do not te…

I had the check gauges lamp come on and noticed low volts the other morning, it climbed back up after a few seconds and the check gauges lamp went off but the voltage was only at about 11-12v range on the gauge (usually 13-14). I took the alternator to autozone, bench tested showed bad, got a replacement and bench tested before leaving, that one tested good. Also tested batteries, both good. I installed everything and still nothing for charge voltage though. After reading some other sites about the PCM voltage regulator going bad, I got an external voltage regulator and was about to connect it up today, but I read a post here a couple of days ago and it got me th…

Ok gang I need you guys to double check me on this here...Truck Specs: 2002 Dodge Cummins - 128K miles - 2500 - Stock(No its not my truck!)Error Code list:P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage High Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage.P0118 - ECT Sensor Voltage Too High Engine coolant temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltageP0238 - Map Sensor Voltage Too High MAP sensor voltage input above the maximum acceptable voltage.P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High InputP0563 - Charging System Voltage Too High Supply voltage sensed at ECM too high.P0577 - Cruise Control Related MalfunctionP1286 - Accelerat…

My charging guage is indicating that it's not charging correctly (leaning left). I messed with some wiring to the alternator yesterday and today it worked fine coming to work. Just took a short drive and it's leaning toward the left again. I'll take a closer look at the wires/plug again but my question is what other components are involved in the charging system on these trucks? The batteries are new and I had the alternator checked in November (two days before my wreck) and it checked good then.

My truck is a 2001 2500 ram with the 24 valve. When I first start my truck up in the morning I can see the alternator kicking on and off back and forth. It gets down to about 10 volts and then goes back up to 14. It’s so bad I can watch my headlights dim and get brighter, I am wondering if this is normal operation or not? I also have a problem with my truck shutting off at idle out of nowhere, wondering if the injection pump is getting low voltage every now and then causing it to shut the truck off. Then the truck starts right back up no problem. I have done the AC noise mod and replaced the alternator about a month ago. If the pcm controls the alternator cut in/ cut out …

I recently took my truck/5th wheel on a trip to the U.P. of MI. On the first day out, a couple hrs into the drive, I glanced down at my gauges and noticed the voltmeter hanging low in the 12 volt area. At the time I was running with my headlights on which included all the running lights on the 5ver. First thing I did was turn off the lights - voltage came up slightly. About that time my better half informed me she was due for a pit stop so I pulled over on an exit ramp & let her into the trailer. While she was doing that I had a look under the hood. All looked fine but I detected a slight noise coming from the alternator that was unfamiliar; it did not seem to change …

Well ever since I've starting to work with Lindy I've really taken interest in making my truck near perfect again. I'm actually chasing down all the little weeping leaks. Like I've known about a fuel leak for quite awhile in the back either #6 injector line or the return at the back of the head. So since I've been keeping the rig washed down it really showing up now. So now I pulled the valve cover snugged the return banjo. This really made the job easy to reach the banjo bolt. As a matter of fact the IAT sensor is a breeze to get at without the hoist ring and the valve cover. Then backed off and reseated the injector line. So later on I got to degrease the back of the en…

I keep getting intermittent "dead pedal" i just flap the pedal a few times and it comes back to life. Then engine light comes on and i get the code come up for it too when i do the "key thing". Lol Anyway it has been happening more frequently so I am going to buy a new APPS TPS sensor. I know all about the timbo apps as well the WELLS ve tps but I keep seeing these ones on eBay for $20 US free shipping. Read a few reviews and people are saying they're not having any problems with the new or updated version. The part number I'm looking at is GEGT7610-172 and the brand is ISUMO. Does anybody have any real world testing with these to prove whethe…

In my search for a better alternator i came across a post by ilya5903 on Cumminsforum.com about using a 2001-03 5.9 Durango 160 amp alternator. Today i hit Pull-a-Part and lucked out. They had 2 Durangos and one was a clean 02 5.9 with the factory alternator. $22 + $7 core. Had it tested on the way home and it works. Swapped the pulley and 15 minutes later its on. Definitely puts out more at idle than the stock 136 amp as i can now have all 3 air compressors, a/c, high blower, headlights and stereo on with truck at 800rpm in drive and had 13.9 volts. 14.2 at idle in drive with everything off. Factory pn 56029915AA. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-pow…