2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

WTS Lamp will not come on. Truck still starts. Manifold heaters do not come on. Has a hard time starting in the cold without block heater(start up) Runs good. I usually wait for instrument light to turn off before starting.... WTS LIGHT has not been working for 5 months. Any ideas appreciated... I let it sit for two weeks. Batteries went dead. Tried to start and the lift pump stayed on. Charge the batteries and that problem stopped.

I’m considering messing with my injector pop off pressures. Iv heard of people having good results with 320 bar with the 75HP sticks. Basically I want the optimal pop pressure for my truck that is not running any tuning just the larger injectors. Part of the reason I’m pulling them is to make sure I have them installed correctly and all washers, o rings, etc are properly installed. Anyways what’s the verdict on pop pressures?

Who are you guys using? Lost 4wd amongst my electrical issues lol. I think I have a broken shift fork, but at 240k it's time to take a look anyway.

Maybe a numb question but I can figure it out. Fuse box in the engine bay, 140 amp alternator fuse, there is a positive and negative lead coming from the batteries. Why am I not getting a good ground there? Would be a nice clean place but I can’t get a good ground!! Can anyone enlighten me

My truck is a daily driver and I tow a 30' camper and various equipment on my 10k trailer several times a month. I would like to install an engine brake. Looks like Banks, Jacobs, Pacbrake, and BD are the primary options. I have also read that some turbo setups offer some braking ability. I would like to tune and setup for better low end power and towing. I would like better spooling down low also, so a different turbo may be in the works. My exhaust off the turbo looks like it necks to 3" out of the turbo housing and then up to 4", would like to make that one size if possible. So what would you all recommend? I searched this forum and others and most replies …

I am thinking about adding an Eaton True Trac to my Dana 80 rear axle with 3.54's. I have gotten by with open differentials for almost 17 years on this truck but have gotten stuck bad only once. I have noticed on MANY occasions that my truck has almost ZERO traction on level ground on grass and inspite of my best efforts NOT to spine a tire almost always do. Yesterday while checking on a forestry unit I had to drive up a very steep access road which was little more than a smoothed up logging road. I made it to the top but I could feel the tires slipping here and there while in 4WD. Has anyone here had an Eaton or similar True Trac differential installed in their truc…

100hp dap injectors @30 psi boost on stock head bolts kinda wondering what’s a “safe” point for as max timing and fuel

Finally put a Bhaf on the truck, but now with straight pipe 4” (outlet currently under the truck, no tip), no silencer ring (does the ring create any congestion?) and a bhaf, it is just getting too loud. Contemplating whether I need just a muffler, just a resonator, a combo resonator/turbo (Jones/aeroturbine) or a separate resonator (under the cab) and a big muffler further back. thoughts/experience?

Ever since I got the truck 3 years ago it’s always had a bad rumble while 4x4 was engaged. It hasn’t effected any performance of the 4x4 but it just doesn’t sound good. I believe it’s the double cardan in the front shaft but I’m unsure. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of play but I plan on removing the front shaft this weekend to see if the rumble goes away with 4x4 engaged to see if it’s the t-case or the shaft. I’ve heard that the from double cardan is a bear to replace but I’d much rather do it myself than spend $300 on a new shaft. Any tips to replacing this joint? I plan on doing all spicer joints so I hopefully won’t have to do this again for a while.

Ok, so as my title states, my truck never came with a lift pump. I only have a FASS titanium fuel pump, and huge lines running straight to the vp44. Would it help anything by putting in a stock lift pump later? Or can I just keep my current setup? Lately it's been loping kind of funny now and then. I'm terrified my vp is getting ready to **** the bed. I'm heading to Williston ND tomorrow to start work Monday, but that's easily a 16hr drive for me, if not longer. After Gillette WY there's alot of empty roads and no service.... Im going to change the fuel filter and water separator just to be safe before I go. The truck has made it from Casper Wyoming to Dickinson Nd, …

Maybe a silly question but I'm curious if anyone can explain to me why my 98 24v is much quieter at cold startup than when its warm? Theres barely any fuel knock at all and its really smooth sounding. Once it warms up and during the warmer months it just sounds like most other 24v. I run 2 stroke oil in my fuel. It would be great if I could figure out how to make it sound so smooth all the time.

99 ram 2500. torque converter locking & unlocking constantly only when i have my lights on. As long as lights are off everything works fine. Any advice on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated.

My truck is hard to start after sitting even for a short time. I have replaced the washers on the banjo fitting back of the head, the seals on the T fitting, and the fuel line to the tank. I just pressurized the tank with air there are no leaks I can find anywhere. It has new injectors and new crossover tube O rings.still has the same problem. No fuel in the oil. Any suggestions from the experts?

As title states, my tcase went crunch on the way to North Dakota for my new job. I'm assuming the way it locked up the innards are toast. I had to disconnect both drive shafts to move it. As of now, the truck is going to be put into hibernation until I figure out what's going to happen next. That depends on whether or not I can get a decent case for cheap enough. I've also considered adapting it to run an np205, and hopefully not have to worry again. But I really don't want to have to get new yokes and drivelines. What do you all suggest? Who could rebuild it for a reasonable amount? Who sells gears and stuff besides all state? The truck has 4.11s…

How long can a New VP44 Be Stored without damage to internals??? I have a H.O Bluechip VP44 i didn't put 1,000 miles on, took it off and, plugged up ports after filling with a mixture of diesel and 2-stroke, stored it in box in my shop and its been there for bout 4-yrs maybe 5.... i had issues and thought it was VP. Ended up buying another Stock VP and it wasn't the issue after all RBURKS

What up you guys! My rear end has been screaming at me ever since Ive owned my truck. I just ordered a master rebuild kit for my 99 auto 47RE with the dana/spicer 70. I'm trying to figure out what carrier clutches to order? the Kit did not come with the carrier clutches and I want to replace them. Reliability is the number one most important thing for me, but posi would be cool. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! If there has already been a write up on this Im sorry i could not find it. Thanks in advance

I’ve been noticing that my coolant temperature has been running higher than normal at high speeds (75-85 mph, 2500ish rpm). Around town and slower highways it runs around 185-195, but run the rpm up and coolant quickly rises to 210-215. It drops down to 185 only a few second after I drop the rpm. I also tested this in 2nd gear locked @ 40 mph/2600 rpm, temp quickly rises to 215 but will fall to 185 in 3rd or 4th gear. I don’t normally drive around at 2600 rpm, but with 4.10 gears and an 80 mph speed limit it gets close. I recently swapped out the thermostat with a new NAPA 190* because it was not getting to operating temp and I figured it was st…

Does anyone know where I can get new trans cooler lines from the transmission up to the heat exchanger tank or whatever that tank is on the side of the trans? Its leaking really bad out of that fitting.

One of my front axle shaft u joints failed today passanger side its clonking pretty bad in 4x4... can someone help with part numbers or give me a part number on rock auto to order as there is a few sizes it has a dana 60 front end its a 99 2500. im in the UK so its easy to order from rock auto or any other recommendations on who to order from. Thanks

I've had this truck for just under a year and done a lot of repairs that the previous owner just didn't bother to do, as in both front brakes siezed so 1 new caliper as I'd got it in the garage, 1 new piston, seal kit and a slider kit, back brakes checked and freed off, ctm changed due to door locks not working, window runners fixed, Cat fuel filter complete fitted as previous plank decided it didn't need a filter and threw the whole lot away, luckily he only did about 100 miles in it afterwards, it had about 9 months MOT on it and our MOTs are strict usually so I'm guessing a mate did it. Anyway truck runs nice now, still more to do but I'd been thinking and…