2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

My head light won't shut off , only head lights not the tail light or cab lights, and my high beam staying on, and the blue light comes on in the inside. I have to pull the fuse to shut them off but only one fuse not both.

I swiped a powersaw for the whole outfit. I don't remember seeing a full hydraulic plow on a Cummins. This was on a 96 with a 318. Any chance I can put that pulley on the crankshaft of the cummins, providing I have the right bolt. Its just for my own use in my driveway. I have a skidloader but its tired and has no heat. The truck should be fine in my driveway. Other than needing a coat of paint the plow is good to go. Chris

hey there guy iam curious if some one can help me out iam trying to figure out how come randomly when iam sitting in the driveway or driving down the road my airbag light will go off and my cluster will reset its self and then go back to where everything is and just tonight i was going out and my airbag light went off along with my low fuel light and my odometer was blinking and all my gauges went blank hopefully some one can please point me in the right direction of where to start

Upgraded my brake cylinders a while back. Had a short video on it. Seems to have made quite a difference even though some were negative about it. Video

I believe I have a Vacuum leak on my 99 24v, at idle when I push on the breaks the trucks idle drops and my cruise control no longer works, I’ve checked all fuses and no blown fuses, so I figured must be vacuum, anybody have a diagram or anything of that sort where all the vacuum lines run?

Not sure if this is where this should be but has anyone managed to get the light on the mirror to work as a marker light as well as a blinker? :Seen it done on 4th gens with a kit but can’t get it to work on my 2nd gen. Have gotten my blinkers to blink opposite of each other (when ones off the other is on) but that is as close as I’ve been able to get. I’ve added a picture to show mirror and light that I’m talking about. This is also my first post so if there’s somewhere else this should be or if anything else is wrong, that info would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I was involved in an accident and the front suspension was greatly affected, it broke the steering gear box output shaft and affected other suspension items, upper control arm, lower control arm, the shop replaced the upper control arm and the lower control arm with a 11000# control arm, now my left wheel set further back than the right wheel and when turning rubs the plastic shield, not to mention the alignment is not correct, anyone know the difference between the "except 11000# gvwr" and the under 11000# control arm?

Hello all, I have to replace my clock spring which i just picked up. My cruise doesn't work and horn sucks too. hard to push it to work. I need some detailed info on removing and replacing. Any help would greatly be appreciated.Thanks,John

Well I am trying to figure out why my Ram started to eat the front tires. The truck is basically all stock replacement parts except the ball joints and track bar. The ball joints and track bar are all Moog parts. I jacked up the front end and did the typical 12 and 6 o'clock test to see if there was any play in the hub or ball joints and couldn't manage to see anything even when using a pipe under the tire. The only thing that really stuck out to me was the track bar. When on the ground you can visually see the gap increase between chassis mount and the ball stud in the track bar. The symptoms the truck has is the steering wheel is off by about 1/3 turn toward the d…

Just to pick everyones brain....I just discovered that my a/c clutch engages on every position of the vent selection dial on the dash and only goes off when you turn that dial to off... Ever here of this? know of anything to check for? not an a/c guru at all I never mess with them. but with all the other problems this truck has had I might as well jump in and see if i can fix this too. Any thing I can unhook to make it not work till im ready for it or get it fixed? by the way its a 2001 auto truck. Thanks in advance

So after getting in my rig today at a local hardware shop I go to put it in reverse and back out. Once I was ready to put her in drive I went to hit the brakes for my gear shift and presto, stiff brake pedal. Damn near had to stand on the pedal to stop it. After some reading I found out that my 96 2500 2wd Cummins has a “vaccume” type brake system for power boost. Looking at the lines on the fire wall I noticed one was popped off and it seemed to fix the brakes. Now Ive recently also had the issue of “zero” in cab air control. It’s defrost vents all the time, looking at that line it seemed loose so I zip tied it, I noticed I may have a hose missing. I think this is where…

Had to replace my evap core today...it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Mopar1973man, thanks for your video, that definitely was a lifesaver...I watched it bit by bit, as needed, and wouldn't have realized there was that last stud behind the PCM-:banghead:. I didn't disconnect the heater core hoses at the heater core, but rather off the feed and return lines on the engine...this seemed to help keep me from dumping fluid all over the cab when I pulled the box out, and was easier to get off. Since it was getting dark when I put it all back together, I did forget to hook them back up at first... Probably should have used a flashlight! I did what most of yo…

Not sure if this is the right place to post this since it applies to all generations of trucks, so please let me know if I should post elsewhere. Last night I installed my new ISSPRO EV2 pyrometer, right beside my fuel pressure gauge. Seemingly everything works correctly EXCEPT the actual reading of EGT! When I turn on the ignition switch the red light comes on and the gauge needle drops to zero, then pops back up to where it was before; when I turn on headlights, the lights come on and dim the same as my other ISSPRO EV2 gauge. The wiring colors match up with the directions. I marked the thermocouple such that it should be in the middle of the exhaust…

I can't seem to find just the clutch at any of the local auto parts stores.Where might I find one of these things guys?

I have some fluid leaking at the brake pedal and dripping on my husky liners. Coming from the fire wall brake pedal rod? Power steering fluid? Time for a reseal on the hydrobooster?

The '00 did it again this week, no powersteering or brakes. (below ~1500 engine rpm). This is the 3rd time it's done it since FiL bought it 10 years ago. Dealer bent him over both times..... I guess it's my turn!It's got the typical seep at the steering gear, and takes about a quart a year to keep it topped off.. I do have the seal kit onhand.Before I attack this problem, is there anything to check before swapping out the pump? It doesn't sing or whine... and yes, it's full of fluid. Is there a inline filter somewhere to check?The last one was replaced because it doing the same thing, AND it was putting a ton of air in t…

I mostly use my truck for longer trips, sometimes vacations with my truck camper and sometimes 2+ hour each way work trips into pretty rural areas. My long time practice has been to try to keep a pretty complete tool kit as well as some spare parts (heater hose, serpentine belt etc) with me. In general if I find myself needing a particular wrench etc while doing maintenance at home then I try to have it in the truck if practical. That said, with this Dodge I feel like my tool bag is getting kinda huge. This thing has metric fasteners, a few SAE, torx, etorx hex and that one darn 10mm 12pt socket needed for the starter. Plus on my last adventure replacing the vacuum p…

If anyone is interested, here is the size for the 3 bolts holding the gear box to the frame: Metric: M14 x 2 x 110 10.9 Class Roughly 4-3/8" from inside of head to tip I decided it was a good time to replace them because I cross threaded one of the bolts last time I replaced the gear box. I got 4 bolts and 2 washers for each bolt at Fastenal for under $20.

So my batteries were new 7 years ago.... they need to be replaced. they dont like holding a charge for long (couple months or less) and i think they are actually mechanically failing. I have had a battery tender on them for the past month in winterize mode to keep them fresh but even that showed limitations, as when i started today i could tell they were not as healthy as they should be. i went to the dump to drop off metal and while there i had to shut down for 5 minutes waiting the scale lady and when i restarted it just cranked over for about 1.5-2 seconds longer then fired up (i noticed no dash power until it fired). as i moved to the metal shed at the d…

need a fresh link to a 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 cummins wiring diagram the one provided on here doesn't seem to be working for me. jonrrrstewart@gmail.com