2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I have read plenty about the 3rd gen brake conversion, will the "dually" aspect of this change the rules any?

will need to attack the balljoints on the 2000 ram, and I figured with the '98 probably needing it too, I'd snag a press and kit for removing/installing.Well, turns out the 2000 and up (until the AAM axle came out) uses a different set of tooling than the 1999 and down! What changed in those years? Mikes thread (the one that almost changed his friends' gender) said he 'got by' with the harbor freight press. Are most presses like this (getting by?) or is there something out there resonable priced, and effective?Seen several with the tooling that is 'close' but not perfect.. And I know that even the best made tool …

My AC/Heater (fan on)is acting up again.... The fan doesnt go on all the time when I start the truck. I replaced the Fan motor and the speed control dohickey awhile ago, that wasnt the problem After I drive for awhile 2 - 5 minutes the fan will go on, start blowing air..... I thought it might be the control knob assembly on the dash( on off ac/ heat/ fan speed) but I dont think that's the problem either. Its been working good for many months , now again in the AM or if I park the truck for a couple hours and start it, not even touching the control knobs , The AC and fan doesnt go on untill I drive a few miles and then it goes on and works / blows cold …

A/C blows the receiver/dryer off the evaporator connection, I thought at first it was building to mush high side pressure due to fan clutch seized and condenser beat up not getting good air flow, but those have been replaced. Just went to start truck after it sat for 20-30 minutes and it blew again, when it's working air blows ice cold. Was going to put gauges on while not running to see if pressure equalized between high/low sides but that will have to wait.

Hi Guys,Need some front end parts. Pass side out tie rod. Decided to go with a Moog because it was called problem solver. Sort of expensive, 70 bucks or so with tax.Now I still need to get both ball joints on the drivers side & a steering stabilizer. Any words of advice? What did you guys use as replacement parts? Is it better than OEM?Thanks,Dave

My neighbor is selling his 2001 3500...I put a injection pump and lift pump in it for him a couple of weeks ago...While I was test driving I noticed the A/C was not working...I tried giving it a charge with one of those quick charge bottles, with the built in gauge in it. There was a low charge, I brought it up to spec for the temperature. But it still is not blowing cold. I also noticed that the compressor is kicking off and on rather quickly, It builds pressure fairly quick, then kicks off right away...which is common if there is a low charge....Thinking maybe the high pressure switch is bad? Any other ideas?? Thanks

I vacuumed the A/C system down and recharged it with 2 lbs of r-134. It will blow really cold and cycle as it should, then the pressure on the low side kicks up high when the compressor kicks off. It will stay there for about 5 minutes and blow warm air. Then the compressor will kick on (low side down to 30, high at 200 - 75 degrees) and cool as it should. Any one have any ideas what would cause this?

I am trying yo replace my steering dampner. what kind of bolt is thru the tie rod and how do you get it out?

Im gonna add a back up light probably one of those round 35w tractor type lights unless I find a similar style 55w Where can I get a relay and what kind should I get?... auto parts store? 3 prong? Oh you can post your back up light pictures and ideas too Here's a 55w fr $32 mucho bucks https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-996176491/overview/

After messing up the cupholder in the dash...and finding no replacement. I ordered the cup holder that fits on the front of the console from Geno's. Takes a while to get here but its a pretty nice setup for my coffee. No I don't drink and drive, but I do pick up a couple every morning for the boss and I. I don't drive the truck much in the winter but being able to use both hands to drive is better than holding 1 of those cardboard trays with 1 hand. Regards Chris...now full of caffene

I installed the flip up tow mirrors a few years ago, and I can't be the only one wondering about this. When you have the mirrors flipped up, there's what looks like a removable tab that's on the arm, i'm wondering if it's not for like turn signals?..... anybody know, or just a pattern in the design

Where's the best place to get the whole kit to replace all my tie rods etc.

Anyone heard or tried ? http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Powder-Coating-Voltage-Starter/dp/B002XE6HHG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I was under the truck a while back and saw the drivers side U bolts had rusted badly in the threaded section that goes through the axle plate. The truck has not been driven in winter since '06. I have been tossing around the idea of traction bars and this seemed like a good opportunity since the set I wanted came with new u bolts.

I know I need to change my fluid but sometimes I will barely touch my brake pedal and the front brakes will almost lock up. It doesn't do it all the time. Pedal is great but I don't like how sensitive they are. Do I have a problem with my system? Has anybody had brakes like this?

I'm stumped... I installed my new headlights a month or so ago and adjusted them accordingly. But the more I raised the beam and pulled it inward the more the housing would become misaligned with the fender opening. Hopefully the picture helps explain what I mean. These are OEM replacements and unless there's something else going on which I cant visually identify, so I should be able to get them straight like the factory lights were. Trying to figure this out, I remembered there's an adjustment on the top middle of the housing but.....its not accessible unless you remove the entire housing. Seriously??? Who thought that one up? Does anyone know …

So today I was a little bored and wanted to check my rear tire pressure. With the chrome covers on this is impossible on the dual rear wheels. The covers are 4 hole and the wheels 7 hole so they don't line up and there is just no way to get in there with a gauge so...... I removed the chrome covers, painted the wheels black satin and reused the chrome centers. See pic below. What ya think? Rears before Rears after

The floor setting works great in all blower setting (low through high) but the defrost isnt the greatest and the main vents hardly nothing on high. I have checked all vac lines under hood which are fine and i have a new blower motor( and its the correct rotation). Theres a door behind the glove box that i think uses cabin air and it works and theres another one i can see next to the gas peddle that also moves. I can hear the motor running hard like alot of air is going somewhere just dont feel anything on all motor speed when selected to the vent that blow on you. Kinda stuck at this point? 1999 2wd

Looking over my truck for annual inspection. With the wheels on the ground and a helper turning back and forth I can see the bushing moving a bit on the end where it connects to the axle. Seems to me a rubber bushing would give a bit but I've read any movement is bad.Other end has no play. Should I replace? If so what is needed to do a 3 gen bar on the truck in my sig.? Is it worth it, and what kit is available? Is kit bolt on and go or are there mods. to be made?

Finally, I'll be looking into replacing the power steering pump. Not that it quit pumping. The reservoir is leaking. The seal between the pump body and reservoir can is weeping fluid out and leaving signs of power steering fluid on the floor after a night.