2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Just replaced my drivers seat foam with @Genos Garage durafoam. Wow what a difference! So much more comfortable. I sit a little higher now. More leg room. If yours is worn I highly recommend it!

Got my new heater core in good heat and much nicer but now I have a wind noise that I hear loudly when the fan is off. It increases and decreases with speed. Feels like maybe cool air is entering then as well. Blend door broken?

Checked every fuse in panel on left front fender under hood. None blown. Also didn't see tail light fuse. Is there another fuse panel?

Yeas, so my 4WD shifter is sloppy, to say the least. Also, in 2WD, the knob is against the dash. The rod is adjusted as much as I can adjust it and still be able to select all tcase positions. As well, sometimes when I'm in 4WD (doesn't matter if it's LO or HI) I cannot get it back to 2WD without yanking/jacking with the shift-lever for a few minutes; quite the PITA.. Is there a method or repair for these darned things?

I'll try to explain what I got. The first inch or so of my pedal travel is soft after the truck sits. If I pump a few time or put my foot under the pedal and pull it up I have nice firm brakes but after a few minutes it goes soft again. The pedal will return on it's own but slower than in should. I have no leaks or fluid loss although at first I thought a rear line had gone bad. I'm thinking master cylinder but I am fairly new to the hydro boost system and this started around the time I had the PS /vac pump out to rebuild the vac pump. I have not checked my rear adjustment yet but they were good not too long ago. I'd appreciate any advise. I put this on another forum and …

so i have an upper ball joint that seems to be squeaking and making all kinds of issues when im stopping. Mainly that it pulls to the right a little. So i figured i would get some quality ball joints. And then i proceeded with the order button and this is what i ended up with-prothane 2" leveling kit for the front-daystar scorpion +2" shocks-reybestos upper control arm bushings-reybestos lower control arm bushings-reybestos prefessional grade upper ball joints-raybestos professional grade lower ball joints-moog problem solver sway bar end links-reybestos professional sway bar bushingsill have pictures of it as stuff rolls in. i plan on tearing the whole front end off and …

Well a paid a guy that I trusted pretty well to do a brake job and fluid flush on the dually. After looking at it and having a severe vibration I called him out on it. Boy was he pissed. Trying to fight me and everything. What do you guys think. Put maybe 100 miles on it before I had a chance to flush it myself today. The vibration is a another long story. The pic is what I sucked out of the reservoir One other thing, I think I may have glazed my front pads cause I took down the track the day after they were put on. Are they toast or will they come back after some wear?

So a couple months ago I get in the truck and no start. Only relay clicking. So, using forums to trouble shoot my problems, I ordered Larry b’s over oversized contacts. A few weeks of working lots of overtime and rainy weekends went by and finally got decent weather to take on the job. Installed the parts and what do u know, still no start. I’ve swapped fuses and relays so that’s no the problem. Is it possible that the neutral safety switch has gone bad? All of the threads I’ve read, people say they have reverse light problems with the switch. Is this a hit or miss with the reverse lights giving it away or could I have a problem elsewhere? I’m tired of having to raise my …

Last night i drove to pick up dinner and my head lights worked fine. Picked up dinner and got back in my truck, and turned on my lights and got nothing.. Well, only fogs and running lights.. I visually checked fuses in the parking lot and all seemed good. At first i had no high beam shutter sound but i played with the connector and i got that back, but still no ignition of the bulbs. I can hear a relay clicking going from running lights to head lights, i just dont know which relay it is. Bit of history, i did have to replace the battery lead fuse and holder because the original one melted. I dont know why. I never lost my hids until i lost the fuse and it didn…

For better or for worse, I just got done installing these. With a bent-tip grease gun tool they are super easy to grease, so I now have no excuse for not doing so. I'm not sure what to think about them. I'm more likely to clean them off and grease them, but if/when the ball or spring wear out they'll be more likely to let in water/salt/grit than a normal zerk. A Google search for that part number and you can get them pretty cheap.

The sheet metal behind the kick panels that forms underneath the truck around body mounts. Do they make this ? What's it called and how much of a deal to replace with those weld rivets for a body shop Thx

I cannot locate in the FSM what the stock ride height should be, and by that I mean from frame to axle as that won't change with tire size. Can someone out there measure for me, or know what it's supposed to be? The previous owner had a snow plow on this truck, had 36k pound tags, and clearly used the gooseneck a LOT. I have tight suspension and recently had an alignment done, but the truck still drives weird. My frame to axle dimensions are different from passenger to driver's side. Considering a new set of front springs, but open to suggestions. I have not checked the rubber isolator in the last 50k miles, but was there when I changed the shocks - obviously …

My A/C, when left on after I cut the the truck off and restart it, sometimes resumes in the defrost mode and then after moving the truck, it will return to the normal mode for Max Air. It will not return to the Max Air mode by just rotating the dial. Please advise.

I have developed some wonder in my steering, so I was checking all the joints underneath, I have Luke’s links all the way around and they all seem to be tight and I noticed the track bar bushing has a lot of slop, I am sure I replaced that bushing ( it’s a rubber one) when I did the joints about 6 ago but maybe I should go with a poly one this time? Any one got any recommendations on them. I see a wide price range on them from about 17 dollars on amazon to about 50 dollars from the high end manufactures

Well I ned to fix my AC been putting it off long enough. Read JOHNFAK's thread on his AC Work Read ISX's sticky at the top, and in Johns thread Mike mentioned he did some work too? Mike if you did I know had to have posted pix somewhere I keep seeing a pic you posted that had the heater/evap box pulled apart. I cant find a thread about that if you did. Be nice to have a thread for ac work/repair. I have a leak some where and hope it is under the hood. Well either way I will probably pull the box out to can the evap either way, as well, I doubt its ever been done and couldnt hurt. It used to freeze me out of the cab, but not anymore. I made a list and am slowly fixing …

Hey guys, Just wanted to show you all my little creation. I've been wanting to make one of these ever since I read about @KATOOM using an exhaust blanket to successfully lower his trans temp. I don't tow much at this point, but I figured keeping the heat off the trans and t case can't be a bad thing! My original intention was to take a piece of 6" exhaust and cut it in half. Then weld some anchors on to give it some standoff. Anyway, my father-in-law had some stainless sheet laying around that he said I could have. At first I though it was too light(it's a little thinner than a street sign), but it actually worked out perfectly! I toyed with the idea of attemp…

The back quarter panel of my truck is stained black from the smoke. It was that way when I bought it. I don't mind it being like that in between washing but when I do wash it I would like for it to scrub off. Didn't know if there was a special product out there that would take it off without hurting the paint. If I can get it off I have thought of probably putting a turn down on it and not worry about it again. Thanks

I need to replace the rear center brake hose. When I went to take off the two lines that go from the center hose block to the calipers, the brake line started to twist. the lines and hose from the center hose to calipers are in great shape. I just need to replace the center hose. My Question, is the line from the center hose block to the caliper all one part? If this line twist apart I can just replace the hard line. and is it inverted flare or bubble at the caliper hose? I did all the other lines this past week because the one Behind the fuel tank went Two tie down straps wroked great to lower and raise the tank.

long time looker, first time poster. Kinda at my wits end. Installed an air dog 150 a couple months ago. The wiring in the truck from the previous owner was kinda messed up but I finally figured out the wires for the fuel pump to kick it on. So I've checked those and everything else, fuse, relay and grounds. And it won't kick on when I turn the key on. Truck runs but seems like it's getting lack of fuel. Especially on start up. Idles up and down and up and down. And I just changed the filters so I know that has nothing to do with it. Lights have also been flickering at night and voltage jumping around alittle, not sure if that's related. But any help would be appreciated.

Just bought a set of Timken front bearing assembly for a 2002 Ram (2WD). It's looking like 280 ft lbs of torque for the axle nut but I'm reading other specs anywhere from 180 lbs to over 300. Even the Timken web page says 280 but always to use the manufacture's specs (whatever that is?). So what the hell is it? I know they're damn tight but does anyone know the actual spec. Also, I take it with this type of sealed unit the torque is set and no backing off a quarter turn or something? Again this is a 2WD not 4WD.