2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Somehow i lost the N in north.The temp had this : before the temp.What gives? I did the test to it and it says pass on the screen.What do you guys think is the problem. --- Update to the previous post... Let me try a better picture.

I Have a ABS and Brake light that has come on, It is showing two codes in the computer. #1. Code 82. Number of tone ring teeth out of range. and #2. Code 51. Rear insulator valve open. What does this all mean? What do they have to do with the ABS and BRAKE lights? speedo works too. what about checking the HCU for any wires melted due water running into the connector? Does anybody got a code list of all the codes?

I was trying to use the trip and did the reset but noticed that all the settings reset every time I shut down. My mpg AVG resets to 12, my miles resets to something like 2734. I is there a battery in there that wears out? My lighter is working ok and my phone charger works with the key off so there is power at least there. Is there a different backup source for the overhead? It is nice to have the odo for trip. Thanks, Curt

I had my truck on a lift today and was looking at the right rear shock... The plastic was melted. Quite a surprise. I think it happened towing this last summer. Lots of time droning at 1100 EGT with 100F ambient temps. Although, it could have happened when my exhaust dropped off of an exhaust hanger for a couple weeks before I noticed. It might have touched. As much as I hate to admit it, but does this actually make a decent argument for stacks?

'02 RC 5sp. ....2500 4x4 The transfer case will shift from 2HI to 4HI easily when stopped. Moving, it's difficult. Grinds. Shifting out of 4HI to 2HI on the move is very easy. Any ideas ? Also, could not find out what 'CAD' means in the acronym list. Does this term apply to my situation. Thank you, MM

The heater has been getting a bit slow changing from heat to ac the past month or so. So today, 55 and raining out it decides it is staying in the AC mode. I figure maybe the stepper is going dont know that it might internal to the box. I put the heater treater part in it some years back so I dont think thats the problem. Any good way check that motor to see if its bad without pulling it?

i noticed when installing a switch in my overhead that the wiring harness for the display was in the overhead even though my truck didnt come with it soooooo. can i plug one in and will it work or will the ecm or pcm have to be programed i assume the twisted pair will send the info but i dont know if the display interpets and displays or if another computer is sending the info and its just a displaying. mpg display would be nice.

So, I went and bought a new flasher because I could not get mine to work (expensive square one). It works fine now with the truck off and can do my big trailers lights fine. BUT when the truck has its headlights on running or not, it simply buzzes loudly and cannot flash the lights, There is a little warpage of the place where the flasher plugs in I'm worried it has gotten very hot in the past to warp the plastic a little and I have no clue as to how to figure out whats wrong. I would assume a piss poor ground maybe?Thanks.

I was loosing a half gallon or so a week of cooling fluid last winter. Now I'm not. I suspect that it is a heater core issue? Heat turned off for months. I have no air conditioning system on my truck.

Any one fiddle with door lock solenoids My pass side is sticking . Makes a noise wont go up and down with the drives door switch. Once in awhile it works Maybe just needs a shot of penetrating oil Havent felt like pulling the door panel and busting the plastic retainers yet

http://www.genosgarage.com/ISSPRO-EV-R30333-BOOST-GAUGE-0-40-PSI/productinfo/ISS-R30333/ http://www.genosgarage.com/ISSPRO-EV-R30033-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-0-30-PSI/productinfo/ISS-R30033/ http://www.genosgarage.com/ISSPRO-EV-R30033-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-0-30-PSI/productinfo/ISS-R30033/ http://www.genosgarage.com/NEW-Products/products/149/2/0 thinkin these may look nice on my a-pillar!

I found an engine wiring harness off of an 02 auto. does anyone know wether it will work on my 02 6speed?

Ok guys here we go. My truck is a 2000 2500 w/ 24v cummins and here is my problem. I bought the truck back in September 15 and has run like a top up until now. I am driving to work this morning and my voltage dropped out and dash light can on saying "check gauges". My immediate thought was ok I just lost the alternator no big deal. Pulled it off and went to Napa, had it tested before I bought a new one and surprisingly it tested OK. Bought a new one anyway for good measure and had it tested before I walked out of the store, also had both my batteries load tested while I was there and they check out. Get back to work and throw the new alternator on, drive it fo…

Looking for something I can mount in the cab that will read the signal (0-12v) and display. Something very cheap and small to hook directly into a variable voltage feed ???? --- Update to the previous post... kinda like this ...... in functionality But digital and smaller http://www.hobbytron.com/CK005.html --- Update to the previous post... -----update------- hmmm this may work .... http://www.amazon.com/XScorpion-Red-Digital-Voltage-Monitor/dp/B001RS1ERC/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_3

Kind of late posting this but I've been busy. I finally round filed the old aluminum canopy and got a Lund Roll Up Tonneau Cover. Works excellent. Pulls rather snug and doesn't flap much and kept my dry wall dry.

While driving today i hit a dip in the road, and -- i was just enjoying the outside air through the vent fan.After hitting the dip my air changed to real hot air just like i turned the heat control up.The truck blew a fuse, and the door locks quit working all at the same time.Something is not right, but have no idea what. Turned off the vent fan because the air conditioner wouldn't work either, and replaced the fuse to the door locks, now everything works.Guess I'll have to watch those dips in the road.

Do like the OEM alloy wheels .... but, one of mine has a small hairline crack on the inboard rim area. Small, it loses 3-4 lbs. pressure per month. The specs for these alloy OEM's don't list the weight. Maybe this shouldn't be a factor since I'm running 285's ..... but, curiosity killed the cat. Anyone know the weight of a bare OEM alloy 8 x 16" .... ? Want to replace these rims with 'classic' style/type alloys .....

Howdy all, I have been pouring through the sport headlight threads and have a question regarding the specific parts. Seems you can get the complete assembly or just get the headlight without the turn signal and put it in there. Having never pulled the headlights out or seeing a sport, I see the headlight (#4 in parts diagram) sits in the mount panel (#6). Now the questions is, is the mount panel specific to the sport light or is it the same as the non sport, allowing me to just get the headlight and slap it into the current assembly? I haven't been able to find part #'s to compare.

1996 Dodge Ram Sport headlight on the passenger side is bright and the headlight on the driver side is dim and makes no difference with high beams on, does that mean that the light bulb is burnt-out on the passenger side because I put a new bulb in where the dim light is on driver side and there was no change.

Hey all, planning to rebuild my pump since I believe it works fine and would like to save money on having a shop replace it (whether its a whole new part or paying labor for the rebuild). Should I get a vacuum tester to see if my pump should just be outright replaces? I have no issues with my brakes and whatnot. Only possible vacuum related issue is my front diff not engaging but I plan to install a posi-lok in the future. Cruise control has been working fine again with no surging (fingers crossed) which is the only actual vacuum problem I may have. I don't think that is due to the pump malfunctioning though. Biggest question is are there any write ups on how …