2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

Rpm is 2200-2500 shes been smoking more than normal. Smarty is on 9 3 3 3. Used to only haze over 1800 when really on it. Sac 100s are probably tired over 100k. Would they still smoke at higher rpm. I haven't pressure checked anything It makes nearly 40psi. Putting around rarely over 20. Egts never over 1200 around town egts are 400-600 cruising about 750ish. For some reason I suspect a boost leak. Just thinking out loud as I've been noticing a noticable amount of smoke that isnt normal . With about 10k behind it I was pushing black like a freight train getting into traffic on the freeway rpm was aroun…

So I tow a 10,000# camper with a stock 3500 rwd. I have read that dual turbos afe better for towing. Why is this the case and wouldn't a larger turbo accomplish the same thing? Just trying to wrap my head around some of the concepts. Thanks

What are you guys thoughts on DDP Hp injectors?

Just out here in a pinch truck is an 02 vp truck with a quadzilla and s366 just put new 100 horse injectors it it and before with just tuner and turbo it made about 36psi boost and wot on hot tune wouldn’t exceed 1150 degrees now with new stix towing small tractor on car hauler it breaks 1100 pulling small tractor in stock tune, wondering if theres a tune out there that would help solve the problem or anything i could do in meantime before it gets water meth kit!

I’m new to all this stuff so bear with me. Lol I have a stock 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9 and I put a quadzilla xzt tuner on it and I’m wanting to do a different tune on it. How do I go about doing this? Also any ideas on bumping up size of injectors or any other rather inexpensive upgrades you can think of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I'm thinking of installing the Isspro R17033 RV2 fuel pressure gauge (electric) and the bullet mount. I know they offer a mechanical gauge and perhaps its more accurate, but I like the idea of an easy install and no chance of fuel coming in the cab. I'm also looking at the Vulcan big line filter to vp44 kit. I have read Mopar1973Man's article for this install and look to do just the same, however I have few questions for those already having done this mod before: Is there a need for 1/2" over 3/8" big line kit? Depending on the condition of the stock in-tank pump, an Air Dog or Fass would be in the future with its big line kit. Is there a need …

Im looking at doing this to my truck but it look like there is machining involved and over my head i was wondering if you guys could recomond the best person on the lower 48 for the job. Someone i can take the truck to and have them do the complete job.

Trying to get a full grasp on the quadzilla before my new injectors get here so I get it set up perfect when I get um in. I can't figure out the Max load offset. Should it lower the timing as I give it fuel based on throttle position? I looked back at my logs and when I get above my set load precent it's does drop 2 degrees below my cruise timing but starts to rise pretty quick. Is this how it's supposed to work? Also if I want it to build boost faster should I set my low psi reduct to 5. It's at 4 right now. Thanks for any help!

Now that I have a Quad (and now set to the correct V2 tuning!) I can see my timing, engine load, etc. When I look around this site I see all kinds of ranges for normal timing and load percentage for various driving conditions, but most folks have larger injectors, higher pop pressures, etc. I have reman Bosch injectors with about 30k miles on them. I still have the HY35 turbo. I roll down the road at about 7,800 pounds, with camper shell. Attached photos are flat Iowa interstate driving, from 10 days ago. The Engine Load seems high; I often see 65% on even a mild rise, such as this morning on my way to work +10 miles into the interstate trip. At idle, my load perce…

So i have a 99 automatic 4x4. As far as the up grades on the truck i have Edge juice with Attiude, 150 Air Dog Fuel Pump, 100HP DDP, ATS Stage 3 Tranny, SB Intake, Bigger Intercooler, 4" MBRP cutback exhaust, ATS exhaust housing I just replace the Stock turbo with Phatshft 64 compressor wheel, and 14mm exhaust housing. Now with this new turbo I've seem to have lost power compared to the old stock turbo. Granted the EGTS don't run up as high. I could power brake with the stock turbo and the power was awesome, but would get up high (1300EGT) so i would let off. But when i power brake and spool up the phatshaft the EGT highest was about 1175 which i was happy with. But when …

Hello everyone,, So I've been toying with the idea of getting a 5.9L for a while. My preference is to get something prior to 2003, simply because I like the body style. The tradeoff, however, is most of these trucks are well into the 200k range. One I am looking at in particular has 278xxx on the odometer, with a tranny rebuild at approximately 275k. I know that the Cummins is the "million mile motor," but is it a risky proposition to jump in at almost 300k? Would I be better off saving my pennies for a truck with lower miles? Thanks!!!

I have a 2000 24v with 100hp injectors, edge comp, and a suber B turbo which is 58/65/12cm my every day elevation is 4,500ft. in Utah. and go up to 10,000 ft. i tow between 10,000 to 12,000 lb. when i put the 100hp injectors in. its a little to smokey for my liking. if i switched to the quadzilla. do you guys have some tunes that you would reccomend to help clear the smoke up?

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that when I was at Walmart the other day I saw that they had a sale on the magna1 semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil for $13. I thought that was a really good deal so I picked up about four gallons of it. I don't know if this is better than the regular 2-stroke supertech oil but I feel like it might be since it is semi synthetic.

I have a new to me 2002 ram 2500 6 speed with a fair amount of mods done to it. I came with the quadzilla adrenaline and I'm having issues with the boost gauge on the quadzilla sticking at 47psi this in turn causes tons of black smoke and poor running. I turn the truck off and restart it and most times it goes back to normal. My question is where does the quadzilla get it's boost pressure from? MAP sensor? If it gets it from the MAP sensor and it is causing the problem shouldn't a cel come on? I'm also having a hell of a time getting a good tune downloaded but that's another issue all together

I'm installing the ARP head studs and I got too curious. I was worried a push rod might get in the way of torquing so I pulled up on the one closest to the bumper. Now, when I put it back in, it won't go down all of the way. Do I need to rotate the engine to get it seated all of the way?

Am I the only one who has a quad that makes the whole truck stumble, buck and shake like the VP is emptying when the throttle reaches the % you set max TPS to? I'll still have 10psi of fuel on the mechanical gauge right before the VP and after extensive test driving i worked out that if my throttle applied percentage equals or exceeds the max TPS it acts like the truck is running out of fuel. Lots of smoke ensues and it cuts out and bucks. I see 2.8.4 ADR is still the latest version. Am I the only one? I'm running aggressive settings without min of 32% max of 40, 50, 60, and 65 as a final setting so the truck doesn't fall on its face. Boost scaling is 20psi, 2…

The clutch in the 97 is a stock napa unit I replaced back in 2011. It would be fine except for me putting out more power. I would like to stay away from a dual disk as well as full ceramic. I was looking at the Valair kevlar/ceramic. I've seen em around the $750 range. Neighbor has a 13" valair in his 96 with 3.55s and has grossed upwards of 30k hauling hay. He is a little over stock power.... maybe 250hp. I know South Bend is a sponsor here, and am certainly open to one, but I've never personally known anybody with one or have any experience. Heard good things though. So, I plan to throw some injectors in the mix in the near future ow…

I’ve gone through the tuning process, and I like my boost level fueling curve. I also think I Ike my pump tap parameters, but I’m not sure my stock clutch can handle much wiretap at all. But all of my timing parameters are set to Mike’s economy settings. I’m going to lose sleep about not having ARP studs. I don’t really understand the timing settings, so I need them explained (dummy style) or I need to know how not to exceed recommendations for stock head studs. I’d like to get studs, but I’ve got to get on the road hauling my 7k pound camper here soon and don’t have the time or cash. I’ve done a lot of reading, but I just can’t quite get my head around the technica…

Long Time lurker on this site, and a big thank you- I have learned a whole lot. I am sure you get a lot of these Please Help posts, but here goes (at least I did pay for like 5 quad tunes- haha) I have a 01 Laramie 2500 longbed 4x4. 2" leveled on 35"s- 3.54 dana 70/60- I know, tall gearing. 215k on the odo. ATS stage 2 built 47re trans. FASS 95, BD gauge pillar with trans, boost, egt (rear of exhaust manifold tapped) I also recently have gotten into some performance mods- 150 dap vco's, BW s362sxe 68cm housing, 4" turbo back exhaust, also ARP headstuds before any of the previous. Also installed the Quadzilla Adrenaline with v2 and wifi iquad …

My apologies for not understanding this,but when I read the following quotes, I understand them differently. If I set my pump low boost scale psi at 18 (for example) but I set my boost scaling at 20, will my fueling be maxed at 20 psi or at 38? Boost Scaling: 20-40 psi Allows you to set the point at which fueling is maximized based upon boost levels. Setting this to 20 will give you fuel fueling at 20psi, assuming tps min / and maxes are met. Boost scaling is calculated along with TPS scaling so in order to have %100 of fueling both need to be met. This setting defines the Y axis of the wiretap map, 20 psi means your map range is 0-20 psi 40 psi means …