2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

So I'm finally ordering an egt gauge and looking for some suggestions. What have you guys had success/failures with?

So I am finally going to drill and tap for a egt probe this week. My question is should I start the truck or just let er rip and use a pen magent after I get the hole drilled? Wouldn't running the truck suck the shavings instead of blowing them out the hole? Just wondering what's my best plan of action as to not cost myself more later? I don't want to take the turbo off because I am sure the bolts will be wonderful to take off.

Well after doing some driving with the new pyrometer I feel like my EGTs are a bit higher than they should be. Accelerating to 65-70mph by the time I get there I am around 900+ easy. If I do the same going up hill then I can reach 1100+ which is what bothers me. Mind you this is completely empty. Is this normal?? I am not lasting through the gears, I shift around 16-2000rpms depending on grade of hill. Anyways what do you guys think?

I have hauled some heavy loads over the last hay season and I think my miss guidence from other people have swayed my beter judgement on EGT. Loaded or unloaded I dont exceed 1200*. I had 2 1600* mishaps unloded. I know that people will say that 1500* for a few seconds is ok and others say don't go over 1000 hauling heavy loads. What I would like to know is 3 figures..Unloaded sustained temp*Unloaded Max few second bursts*Sustained loaded temp*I wont hold you to the temp but I am curious on what people are running. This is all pre-turbo readings.

In my 01 Sport Cummins HO 6 speed 4x4, I have 3.55 gears, 295/70R18 tires, 4" full exhaust system (no muffler), stock HX35, AFE intake horn, older EJWA, S & B air filter setup, Industrial Injection HO VP, and Airdog 165 LP/filtration system, stock HO injectors. I do have DAP 100 HP injectors to put back into it when I receive them back from DAP. They are new but I sent them back and they found that two of them were at 302-303 bar instead of 310-312 bar, which was causing my idle to be a little bit lopey like a muscle car camshaft. In 6th gear on cruise control running 60 mph, my EGTs are running around 650 - 715. Is that normal or high? I don't…

So: I can't tow (8000lb camper) in OD and I"m ok with that (low rpms due to 3.55 and 35" tires lol) Cruising in 3rd at lower rpms (1700-1900 on gravel roads) is also a bit warm too on the egt side. Question: The Quad EGT reads a 100ish deg lower than my glowshift max tow gauge around 900+ deg, some places I get the max tow to 1200 but Quad is showing 1100... Which should I trust? Both probes are side by each in the manifold. Water temp sits great at 195 and Oil temp stays at 208 on the quad. Towing boost also seams low- rarely over 17psi cruising (19-2100rpm). The motor is studded with 425's, 62 71 12 (I think) DPS turbo that's like 13/14 years old, 150h…

I did a quick search on the subject. Nobody seems to think the mod is worthy. Is that still the case. Payoff in fuel economy not realistic? Read so threads on other forums of guys using Ford Taurus fans on the cheap with reasonable success.

I was going to revive an old thread on my issues but it seems ther are more than one. So I will give the Readers Digest version. About 4years ago I started having engine surging problems. It would surge about 3% to 5% and was annoying and would set a couple of apps codes. But the problem got worse and would surge upwards of 14%. When it would go this far it would soon trip an apps code and would dead pedal. Always recovered, though it would take a few minutes. So I broke down and made my electrically challenged arse do some diagnostics on the apps and everything pointed to the sensor being bad. I bought a cheap one off of EBay installed and sure enough no su…

Here is my fuel pressure page. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm Here is the HFRR testing and requirements of the VP44... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm Here is a tidbit on how to gain MPG's http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/better-mpgs/better-mpgs.htm Here is a great tool to teach you how to drive. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/scangauge2/scangauge2.htm Any question on this??? :confused:

HELP! lol Seriously though. I tried the ME#### "Large injector emissions tune" and she still smokes a bit too much free revving off idle on PL1 Truck must go through the stupid diesel snap test which involves them putting a probe in the exhaust and then proceeding to put the pedal to the metal from idle till it reaches 2k RPM, then letting off till it settles back at idle, and repeating 5 more times (basically no load free-revving it. they don't dyno them here). If at any point it blows out more than 30% opacity it fails. Half the time they won't let the driver do the snap test, they get in and do it...so being lighter on…

My yearly test is coming up on Friday. I have been working hard to figure out how much fuel I can throw at the truck without causing visible smoke. I am allowed %20 opacity on lug down tests at 40, 50, 60 mph. This will be the first year I have run the Quadzilla during the test. I have my tune nailed down pretty well. starting % of 76 seems to be where there is next to 0 visible smoke in any situtation. Last year with the smarty on %50 power mode I ended up at %7 opacity, so I am guessing I am going to at in the 10%-15% range in the test. I can turn down the fuel more, but I want to try and pass with as much fuel as possible. It is also …

I’ve been having an issue with my truck where most of the time while cruising I’m at around 28-30% engine load and you can just “feel” that the truck is having to work harder to keep going. Other times I’ll be at around 22-24% engine load and the truck just wants to go. It’s not my brakes hanging up as they are never hot and they have new calipers on them in the front and the rear drums don’t do anything anyways (I think the adjuster is rusted so they don’t actually hit the drum ?). I’m leaning towards it being an electrical connection problem but not sure where to start. Anyone’s help or experience is well appreciated! And yes I have fuel pressure my sensor just ran…

Where is the most reliable place to send in oil to have it tested? I have never done it before and would like to start checking it every so often. Is there any other fluids that should be tested? Thanks! I have done the antifreeze flush but not the break system or diffs

The info in my signature is up to date, with that in mind, I have an issue with the engine stumbling. No matter if I'm in the 0 setting or 3 setting it will stumble on acceleration from around 55 mph. When if you slam the throttle. In the stock setting it doesn't do it as bad. Feels like a miss. Now if I place the quad in 4 or 5, it will stumble until it kicks the wire tap in and then you can feel the miss ever so slightly. There are no codes, I have changed out the injector lines all 6 and torqued them down 28lbft. I was thinking it was the old lines, maybe they were just over torqued, no luck. This issue is really prevalent when towing. Now with no codes, could it still…

I have a Fass 95 pulling off the factory basket and recently installed an Edge Juice w/ Attitude. My fuel pressure bounces all over the place. From 10 to 23 psi on the CTS monitor. Edge has replaced there senor 2 times and no change. I did the 5 gal bucket test today and psi is all over the place. Truck runs good from what I can tell. The gauge bounces at idle and wot. I had a snubber on it but it didn't help at all. Is it possible that I still have a bad senor? I have not checked with a mechanical gauge yet. Anybody have any thoughts??

So I got 4 inch dp to back of cab then up to a stack I want to put an exaust on it with a muffler the drone is crazy so opinions on 4 or 5 and diamand eye mbrp farm boy diesel what one I'm up in the air I take the truck on every long trip so it has to be able to sneak under the radar so to speak all abiding laws aside

I want to say it works incredible 7x009 injectors alone with truck running its factory program, smoke is greatly reduced actually almost gone has good power off idle while towing egt's are a non issue. Turbo is actually lighting sooner as its breaking in. moving slow at 1000rpm it's got a pronounced whistle that it didnt used to have. No it's not a leak ;) doesnt whistle like a ford but it is noticeable. You can hear the air being pulled through the filter pretty fiercely if that's a word towing it has power to accelerate up grades while egts stay below 1200. Before it had power but unable to accelerate because egt's would climb. I did have to…

HOPE THIS ISN'T A DUMB QUESTION BUT I PUT 155 INJECTORS IN MY 00 CUMMINS AND I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE KNEW A WAY TO TONE DOWN THE SMOKE A BIT. A COUPLE OF BUDDIES HAVE 150'S AND DON'T SEEM TO SMOKE NEAR AS MUCH AS ME.

i am going to put an exhaust brake on my truck. since i have had a Banks stinger plus on it for 5 years i am leaning towards the banks brake. cost is about 1k and should install easily. it has a warm up feature that keeps the brake close on start up until water temp hits 125 or you step on the throttle. seen alot of yall talking about e brakes but never about banks. my stinger has worked great since i put it on 5 years ago. ay opinions?

So I'm back.. started the 2 stroke oil. P1689 hasn't been giving me any trouble for a while. Today while driving to work someone came to a complete stop in the middle of the road so to keep moving I stepped on it to pass and go around them. As soon as i stepped on it I had nothing. It was acting like the p1689 problems i was having but 10x worse. On my lunch break a minute ago I drive to go pick up cigarettes and it's doing it some more but very minor by comparison. On my way back to work I was barely able to make it up this slight hill and i had little to no power and was blowing blue (oil?) smoke the entire way. Now to fill in some details, I may have don…