What's the best place to get some exhaust to make my stock 3 inch into straight pipe , or if I was going to buy a straight pipe where should I purchase 

 

A muffler shop.

 

3 hours ago, ItzReckless said:

What's the best place to get some exhaust to make my stock 3 inch into straight pipe , or if I was going to buy a straight pipe where should I purchase 

 

If I can recall to my days of price checking for exhaust systems I believe Diamond Eye made the cheapest 4" kit for our trucks (with or without muffler).  The kit I got was an aFe brand.  I opted for that because it uses accuseal clamps (when possible) in certain areas of the exhaust so it would be easy to change something out if necessary.  I did not bother to get a 409 or 304 stainless system because I rattle canned mine with Rustoleum 2000˚ high heat paint/primer.  Turned out really nice and I'm certain I will not have any rust issues.  Add a little car polish on the last section of the exhaust and she shines up real nice.  Pictures are iffy...but it's all I have at the moment (out of town). 

 

A lot people rave about http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/          

If you do order a kit from wherever, make sure that no pipe sections are bent at their ends and all hardware is accounted for.  Line everything up off of the truck and see if everything connects easily.     

Edited October 29, 20168 yr by sooxies

I like my rolling smoke diesel kit. It is holding up well.

I actually had diamond eye before but I'm trying to snag the cheapest system even if it is finishing my existing exhaust with flex pipe lmao ! don't want to lose my egt tap, btw My truck has those same tires and rims are those third gen Rims

 

 

Edited October 30, 20168 yr by ItzReckless

I was a little sarcastic in my previous post, but if you just want to replace the muffler with a piece of pipe a muffler shop should be able to hook you up with some 3". That would get you by until you can get what you want.

19 minutes ago, ItzReckless said:

I actually had diamond eye before but I'm trying to snag the cheapest system even if it is finishing my existing exhaust with flex pipe lmao ! don't want to lose my egt tap, btw My truck has those same tires and rims are those third gen Rims

 

 

Is your egt probe in the manifold or exhaust pipe? Those are 4th gen rims too

 

oh ok well I just purchased a new 4 inch diamond eye , but as far as the egt its in the stock 3 inch downpipe where it bends under cab

 

 

3 minutes ago, ItzReckless said:

oh ok well I just purchased a new 4 inch diamond eye , but as far as the egt its in the stock 3 inch downpipe where it bends under cab

 

 

To get an accurate reading, you need to install the EGT probe in the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo)

I bet I can do that but don't I need to drill then tap wont I leave threads in exhaust

 

 

2 hours ago, ItzReckless said:

I bet I can do that but don't I need to drill then tap wont I leave threads in exhaust

 

 

Yes, you will have to drill and tap the manifold. 

 

I think the exhaust will have some sort of adapter that holds it in there, but if you bought a whole new exhaust you shouldn't have to worry about it. 

I put a rag in the manifold to catch the filings when I did mine 10 years ago. Do your best to catch them and you will be ok. You should not leave enough of any thing to hurt anything. Post turbo you wont really know what is going on  with your EGT.

On 10/30/2016 at 11:41 AM, TFaoro said:

To get an accurate reading, you need to install the EGT probe in the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo)

 

I see this posted often.  I drove class 8 trucks full time back in the late 60's/early 70's for about 4 years and part time up to now. Because I have been part time I get whatever rig is in the yard a lot when I worked for a rather large outfit.  I have literally driven at least a couple hundred different tractors and likely more.  

 

When I started driving not all rigs had pyrometers and still don't even today.  In the beginning every pyro was plumbed pre-turbo.  For at least the last 25 years or so none of them are.  Every one with a gauge is post turbo and the ones that are not at least have provision in the down pipe for it.  Never have seen a place in the pre position on those rigs.  There has to be a reason for that one would think.

 

I neglected to bookmark it and now wish I had since I can no longer find it but I found a discussion about probe placement a few years back.  I believe it was a Cummins factory site and they claimed under full throttle pull there was a very reliable 300* difference between the 2 positions.  Main downside was the response with post position under pull lagged behind what was seen with the pre position.

 

Just an FYI to let guys know what Cummins says about it.  I think when I get around to doing mine I will run 2 probes and make comparisons.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On 10/30/2016 at 0:38 PM, ItzReckless said:

 , but as far as the egt its in the stock 3 inch downpipe where it bends under cab

 

 

lol

 

5 hours ago, Russ Roth said:

 

When I started driving not all rigs had pyrometers and still don't even today.  In the beginning every pyro was plumbed pre-turbo.  For at least the last 25 years or so none of them are.  Every one with a gauge is post turbo and the ones that are not at least have provision in the down pipe for it.  Never have seen a place in the pre position on those rigs.  There has to be a reason for that one would think.

 

Easier maintenance with no chance to damage a turbo by a dumb tech.  Engineering can account for the pre or post turbo, but pre is more accurate without that data.  

X3 on the pre turbo probe,  you want to protect turbo and also other engine parts, pistons, cylinders, valves etc... putting it downstream and it maybe to late.

 

 

Found this in my files of where a probe should be, at least according to some.  Where to stick the probe is like asking which tire is best IMO

 

Anyway thought this might help

 

Yep, somewhere in that area. Back 3 cylinders because they run hotter than the front 3. In the collector because you get an average of the 3 cylinders. IMO that is correct. 

I know where every one usually puts it on their personal rigs.  I do know of several big rigs that lost the pre turbo probe.  Can't recall what all was damaged but it seems like it resulted in an overhaul.  This has been a very long time ago.  Maybe probes are higher quality now. I am going to be laid up for a while soon so I am going to try to find that page again. 

4 hours ago, Russ Roth said:

I know where every one usually puts it on their personal rigs.  I do know of several big rigs that lost the pre turbo probe.  Can't recall what all was damaged but it seems like it resulted in an overhaul.  This has been a very long time ago.  Maybe probes are higher quality now. I am going to be laid up for a while soon so I am going to try to find that page again. 

What would cause the need for a complete overhaul though? If the probe melted off or something, it would at most destroy the turbine wheel and possibly the whole turbo. The intercooler should catch the chunks if the turbo grenaded though.  I'd like to read it if you can find it!

 

I can personally attest that both of my probes have seen well over 1,800deg F and I haven't had an issue with either. 

5 hours ago, Russ Roth said:

I know where every one usually puts it on their personal rigs.  I do know of several big rigs that lost the pre turbo probe.  Can't recall what all was damaged but it seems like it resulted in an overhaul.  This has been a very long time ago.  Maybe probes are higher quality now. I am going to be laid up for a while soon so I am going to try to find that page again. 

 Would be interesting to read why the big engine manufactures choose post turbo probe,  on my freightliner with series 60 Detroit I never see more than 1000 degree on the gauge, under the heaviest loads, 900 being the safe zone.

2 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

 Would be interesting to read why the big engine manufactures choose post turbo probe,  on my freightliner with series 60 Detroit I never see more than 1000 degree on the gauge, under the heaviest loads, 900 being the safe zone.

 

 

I can tell you that it's not exactly safe. I've seen first hand now with a 2006 Dodge Cummins with both pre-turbo and post turbo where the pre-turbo was getting crazy hot like +500*F hotter than the post turbo which could still reach 1000-1100*F. Stock truck with just a Banks tuner.