Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule.

 

This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. 

 

I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask  

 

Comment was more of a joke, but now I'm tempted...

What is the speed limited to on manuals? I have had mine up 105 and it never tried the cut out.

Mine is 115

1 hour ago, trreed said:

Mine is 115

I don't know if I want to go any faster in a dodge ha ha, that's why they limited to that speed in the first place. Probably save them some lawsuits.

Tires actually.

On ‎3‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 5:38 PM, Natertot01 said:

If you have any questions feel free to ask

Which two wires did you jumper together? 

The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6  C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. 

The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7.

The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body.

 

It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires.  That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.   

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Which two wires did you jumper together? 

The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6  C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. 

The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7.

The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body.

 

It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires.  That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.   

It was the middle pin and the top pin when plugged in. My wires were a little dirty so it was hard to tell (and its currently 1 am here), but the middle one did appear to be BK/WT. The vehicle was able to be started in any gear when the wire was jumped. After about a half hour of being hardwired it even threw a p1899 ( "Park/Neutral switch stuck in park or gear"). so if it was on a switch this problem would not arise. 

Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

Do the VP trucks defuel on the shift?

 

If they do, and this removes that defuel it will take a seriously built transmission to handle the shift.

 

 

they don't.  The communication between the pcm and ecm isn't that good.  our trucks unlock the converter for shifting to handle the issue.

Edited March 29, 20187 yr by Me78569

5 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

they don't.  The communication between the pcm and ecm isn't that good.  our trucks unlock the converter for shifting to handle the issue.

 

Probably one of the reasons why auto's were more power limited in 2nd gens.

 

What controls the unlocking? Will it still unlock with the truck thinking it's in N?

Edited March 29, 20187 yr by AH64ID

not sure, something in the PCM mystery box.

 

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

 

2 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

 Looks like it.

 

On 3/27/2018 at 7:38 PM, Natertot01 said:

The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before.

 

Edited March 29, 20187 yr by AH64ID

4 hours ago, IBMobile said:

 

You do not need a resistor, it throws the code after about a half hour or so. you  really only need to eliminate TM for a minute or less at a time so the code will never throw. Like I said before mine was hardwired on and a switch would eliminate this problem.

And yes it still goes through all the gears like normal, nothing different.

7 hours ago, Me78569 said:

not sure, something in the PCM mystery box.

 

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

 

Don't know if it will on it's own, but I've stalled my truck while in park after stepping on my lockup switch

 

@Dynamic Jon, what's your take on this?

2 hours ago, notlimah said:

 

Don't know if it will on it's own, but I've stalled my truck while in park after stepping on my lockup switch

 

@Dynamic Jon, what's your take on this?

Yes it will on its own, I had ZERO problems with the trans shifting on its own, going in and out of lockup (ON ITS OWN), everything worked perfect AND mine was hardwired on the whole time. 

23 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Does the converter lock at all if it thinks it is in N?

There is no way for a 47RE to "think" it's in Neutral. There is no gear selector feedback to the PCM on a 47RE.

 

The PCM unlocks the converter for the 3-4 upshift, and then relocks it after the shift. The problem is that the shift will typically complete before the converter actually unlocks, which is fine and good, but then you still get that annoying converter unlock/relock sequence after the shift is already complete.

 

EDIT: I went back and read the original post. Very interesting.I stand corrected.  I've been working on these trucks since they came out, and I had no idea the PCM monitored the Park/Neutral switch for torque management control. They added the range sensor to the 48RE in the 3rd Gen trucks, and I assumed that was when they started monitoring Park/Neutral, along with the other selector positions. Learn something new every day...

 

Yep, there it is...Connector 1, Terminal 6, Black/White wire from PNP switch to PCM.

 

I guess in my transmission-only world, I've had no reason to know this...! Cool...

Edited March 30, 20187 yr by Dynamic

So has anyone else given this a shot yet? I am going to install a more permanent setup tonight.

On 3/29/2018 at 10:03 AM, IBMobile said:

Tapping the BK/WT wire at  pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set.  What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line.  This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

Running it to ground would probably be a bad idea given that the wire is connected to battery positive when the switch is on lol. 

6 hours ago, Natertot01 said:

Running it to ground would probably be a bad idea given that the wire is connected to battery positive when the switch is on lol. 

 

I'm looking at the factory wire diagrams and I don't see that black/white wire connected to the battery but as the grounding leg of the solenoid in the starter relay.   This is why when you connected the 2 wire together the other wire was the lead (violet/black) to the back up lights and the PCM was grounding through the blubs. 

 

Ah, I was looking at a different part of the wiring diagram and realized my mistake, I did not know those didn't connect that way to ground, the +12v going into the switch must be for the reverse lights . I thought it connected to both. Thank you for clearing that up, I was definitely going to check with a meter before installing everything lol. Ya looking at the plug I can see I grounded it through the lights ??? @IBMobile

Edited March 31, 20187 yr by Natertot01
forgot tag