I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... 

 

and what about this bango bolt on the back of the head I’m hearing about... I just took it off... I can’t tell if it’s leaking at all but the rubber around the brass washers is completely gone... and was not at all very tight

4 hours ago, 04Mach1 said:

Agreed on mechanical gauges being the most accurate.

 

The only issue I have with mechanical gauges is the liquid lines getting brittle and possibly breaking inside the cab. That's my worst fear is the interior of one of my vehicles flooded with fuel or oil from a broken gauge hose. Of course this is coming from someone that has lived in the high New Mexico desert most of his life where everything sun rots from the bright sun and heat.

 

That's why I went to electric gauges. I've had liquid line failures in the past with cheap nylon tubing. Air Brake Tubing was a good solution but tired of the constant battle of adjusting the needle valve to prevent gauge buzzing (gauge damage from water hammer pulses).

 

Ummm... Idaho has 110-115*F temperatures too. Riggins Idaho sees these kinds of temperatures in the summertime. 

 

The way I'm set up with ISSPro EV2 I've got my sensor in a very easy spot for testing. I can stack on a mechanical gauge and test for accuracy and then return to the electric alone. 

 

 

So then if I want to dampen the needle of the gauge and take an average or do I want to see every bit of pressure change? ISSPro EV2 does have a setting in the programming that allows you to set the hysteresis of the needle swing. 

 

7 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

Just me but never hurt to put a needle valve shut off just before (What ever you are using for fuel isolator , grease line or brake line)  able to shut off line in case of leak and better control hammering due to vp44.  

I had a leak 1st time i connected but now I use tubing cutter instead of packet knife to cut...nice sharp cuts with no burrs.  Temp wise my air brake line good to about 200 degrees most of them.  So no worries about fuel temps IMO.  My fuel line for gauge starts at lift pump.  Reason becuse I don't know temps close to vp/engine.  

 

 I've never thought about using air brake tubing. Its a great idea. Brake tubing is definitely worthy of fuel and oil since most newer OTR trucks now days use it for fuel lines. Also heat does not seem to degrade it quickly. 

What about silicone fuel line hose, I am using green transparent silicone fuel line hose for a fuel gage on my bajabug aluminum fuel tank. this stuff is great alway flexable and I attach it with 1/4 quick connects. This is the same stuff sold for fuel lines for small engines.

1 hour ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

 my bajabug

 Got any pictures of your VW?

thought it would be appropriate to show my dodge ram pulling my buggy to the desert, and a picture of a full RARE day after a big rain in the desert Dove Spring in Red Rock State Park. Just replaced the 091 trans with a fully built 091 trans so with the lower gears will come bigger tires ready to mount and better offroad ability. and a picture of the Colorado River at the start of a 3 day run through the Mojave Trail from the Avi hotel in Nevada to Barstow. The blue one is my boys our first build and many since. We run chevy ecotec motors, very reliable.

Well those look fun

That's what a buggy looks like....

What motors you got in them?  Subaru ?

1 minute ago, GSP7 said:

What motors you got in them?  Subaru ?

We run Chevy ecotec motors, with chain timing belts, and do not have the exhaust at the bottom like the Subarus and mainly because we have been able to get the motors for $500 and keep and extra one for replacement, Cost 3-$5000 and more for the transaxle and we still run an 091 Bus 6 Rib not hard to spend $10,000 if you go to a Mindeola transaxle. I am hearing that some people are running Subaru transacles with a 5 speed. Some people are running the Honda V6 motors a lot more power and cost and better chance of reaching the limits of the transaxle. Just got it back together with a fully built 091 transaxle, with the gearing change I have bigger bfg's going on the front and rear. They have 4 wheel disc brakes and power steering.

That looks like a hell of a lot of fun.  

 

L8tr

D

Ok guys.... trucks been running great... but I’m ready to buy that airdog system for my truck... but I wanna make sure I get the best one for me.... I plan keeping my truck stock, so should I get the 100 gph or splurge and get the 150 gph... also, I noticed some are selling with a draw straw and some do not... I think I’m needing the one with drawstraw

I'm newbie shortly past test and installing a airdog that works great.  I have 95 or 100.

Make sure you register with them.

I would pass on drawstraw and just re-work fuel module with 1/2 lines.  Drawstraws ok but spending money for same thing by just rigging up fuel module with bulkhead fittings and some drilled holes in module.  Lots of info on this site.  My fuel line...tank to airdog to vp44.  Jic fittings at airdog and can remove and install cheap carter pump should airdog ever fail.  Shut off valves at vp44... ease of changing filters or swopping out.  But everybody has their own thoughts.

7 hours ago, Goonas2 said:

100 gph or splurge and get the 150 gph

150 with draw straw. Straw needs to be installed correctly to work properly. Or you can modify fuel basket with draw straw 5 kit or buy a complete updated busket. Everything needs to be in 1/2" no chock points to work best, accept the return from back of the head and injectors that stays the same.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/vulcan-ds5/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts this kit only works with baskets that had fuel pump retrofitted from frame rail to basket.

 

Airdog comes with quick-connect fittings that should work with this

 

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=FMDSOE

 

11 hours ago, Goonas2 said:

Ok guys.... trucks been running great... but I’m ready to buy that airdog system for my truck... but I wanna make sure I get the best one for me.... I plan keeping my truck stock, so should I get the 100 gph or splurge and get the 150 gph... also, I noticed some are selling with a draw straw and some do not... I think I’m needing the one with drawstraw

I did the 150 as there are times when the 100 is on the weak side of keeping the minimum of 14 p.s.i. even without power modes. I got mine from Vulcan around $450 bucks and got everything needed. The straw, 1/2'' lines and pre made relay harness.

 

I like Vulcan because he will ask enough questions to get you set up correctly. 

Edited July 20, 20186 yr by JAG1

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

I did the 150 as there are times when the 100 is on the weak side of keeping the minimum of 14 p.s.i. even without power modes. I got mine from Vulcan around $450 bucks and got everything needed. The straw, 1/2'' lines and pre made relay harness.

 

I like Vulcan because he will ask enough questions to get you set up correctly. 

 

Plus one for Vulcan also, Great guy.  

If doing over ( 2 things)...

First. I would go with 150 gph. My 95 or 100 does job for mine fine but when I drained my fuel out of tank I used the pump to drain what was in the tank.  I didn't take any measurements but it sure took longer to drain than what I thought it should for 95 gallons per hour.  Vinyl tubing from Ace hardware hooked to pump made draining easier than other methods I've used in the past.  

2nd... I would of planned out entire fuel line.  Tank to vp44 to include snubbers, needle valve shut offs and fuel pressure gauge.  And where you are going to mount pump.

 

Ok guys.... update time and questions.... moparman I hope you have your ears on!!!

 

I installed the airdog 150 today and did not use the draw straw and instead used a beans diesel fuel sump. Installation was pretty simple and I got it to run on new pump... but... I installed the wiring harness that came with the kit and followed the instructions to the tee and I hooked up the plug to the factory ecm plug like it said in the instructions... and now I’m back to the same problem as before... the truck won’t start unless I unhook the lift pump then after it starts I hook it back up.

 

Before I bought the airdog I ran a toggle switch to inside the cab and was turning off lift pump then after engine cranked, I would turn on lift pump and drive like normal. My question is, I thought this relay that came with my kit was suppose to take care of this, like it was supposed to delay the lift pump from turning on as the engine turns over. My question is, was I suppose use the factory ecm plug, or do I cut the plug and wire it to the fuse box? Don’t let me down fellas!!! Help me out!!! I’m almost there!!!

 

One more thing... I had an idea I wanted to express before I tried it... per the instructions, I wired the hot wire and ground to the alternator. Like I said, the instructions said this or to the positive and negative post on battery, I chose alternator because to me it looked like a cleaner installation.... 

 

so my question is.... instead of hooking up  my pos and neg to the alternator... could I hook it up to an empty power supply coming out of the fuse box, one that has no power while starting, but, once engine starts has power... thoughts?

Sounds like your ECM isn't regulating voltage during cranking.  Usually, the ECM commands 50% duty cycle to the lift pump during cranking to keep cranking pressures to 7-12 psi, as Bosch states.  You are correct, originally, you are supposed to hook the relay fuse to the ECM to control the AirDog.  What fuel pressures are you seeing while cranking?

Dont cut the plug. The relay portion of the system is to get the 12v power off of the ECM. With the relay the ECM just triggers the relay and the power is supplied from the alternator like you have it wired. I ran mine like that for years.  Much easier on the ECM and still leaves the fuel pump under ECM control.

 As @trreed states the ECM should be cycling the pump on and off to lower the pressure for cranking. Checking you fuel pressure when happens again is the next step. 

Need a fuel pressure gauge. Typical cranking pressure for me is 7-12 PSI. Normal idle pressure is 17 PSI and WOT is 15 PSI.

 

11 hours ago, Goonas2 said:

I installed the airdog 150 today and did not use the draw straw and instead used a beans diesel fuel sump.

 

I would have never installed the sump bad idea. Just wait till the sump start leaking the only solution will be to replace your fuel tank and they are very hard to find. Not to mention some areas consider bottom draw illegal might check your local state laws. If sumps were legal all the newer trucks would have had them installed from the factory. I've been using the old school drawstraw now for over 13 years and 250k miles and ZERO issues.

 

9 hours ago, Goonas2 said:

I wired the hot wire and ground to the alternator. Like I said, the instructions said this or to the positive and negative post on battery, I chose alternator because to me it looked like a cleaner installation.... 

 

Not a good idea. If the alternator fuse blows it will wipe out the fuel pump because the alternator will ramp up to well over 48 volts when the PCM no longer sees charging voltage. Airdog should be hooked up to the PDC BATT terminal. This way you not hooked up to the batteries direct with corrosion issues but as close as possible to the battery. The ground I use a body bolt for a ground.