When you fellows replace u-joints, do you have a preferred brand and series? And most importantly, on the front axles do you use greasable joints? I believe the Spicer SPL55-4X has the zerk, but how hard would access be?

 

For my rear driveshaft am leaning toward Spicer 5-1410-1X, the greasable model.

Do you all change the center bearing at the same time? Mine seems to be in good shape.

 

All [good] advice would be appreciated!

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Need a press to change the carrier bearing. 

 

Which part of why I was able to get my 1 piece driveshaft cheaper than 3 new u-joints and a carrier bearing installed on my OE 2 piece.  

35 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Need a press to change the carrier bearing. 

I got 99 problems, but access to professional tools generally aint one.

2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

 

Which part of why I was able to get my 1 piece driveshaft cheaper than 3 new u-joints and a carrier bearing installed on my OE 2 piece.  

Next time I need a yoke on rear end ( heard they go bad) I'm getting next size up and having Sadler powertrain build me an aluminum heavy duty driveshaft. With sealed Spicer joints. 

spicer non greasable for strength!

Pretty basic stuff but learned some too. Go look at ujoint series on YouTube by Weber Auto. Talks about quality of ujoints. 

Yea I still got some new non greasable joints laying around. I have ran those much longer than a greasable one, just for my forgetfulness.

Doing my joints here soon as well. Going non greasable again, but needing a good place to order the ball etc for the front carden joint? Oriellys any good? 

NAPA. I got mine pretty good price for the joint ball.

10 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

spicer non greasable for strength!

That's what Guinness Stout is for.

31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

NAPA. I got mine pretty good price for the joint ball.

I like napa, my good friend had a store near me then couple years ago he had to close down... there isnt a other one near by unfortunately...

I will always go with the sealed from now on. I replaced my u-joints at 270,000 miles because I was replacing the carrier support bearing and they were 17 years old but there was not a single dry cap in the rear driveshaft. The front driveshaft did have a dry u-joint around the same time though. As said before they are slightly stronger because there’s no hole drilled in the center and the seals are far better because the greaser ones have to let the grease out but unfortunately they do let the contamination in as well

14 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

NAPA. I got mine pretty good price for the joint ball.

And Brodie at NAPA in Council is a stud of a parts guy.  I buy 90% of my parts through him.

For what ever reason I had replaced all the factory seal ujoint before 30k all had failed. Have very little trust in seal u joints.

Edited January 30, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

460k on my oe. I lovd em.

9 hours ago, dripley said:

460k on my oe. I lovd em.

It must take you 10 minutes to get up to speed for them lasting that long   i know things slow down when they get older 

43 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

It must take you 10 minutes to get up to speed for them lasting that long  

With my MAP sensor issue, you are not far off.

43 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 i know things slow down when they get older 

I know thats right. But after HG replacement, new injectors and what not, the truck will be ready to rip once again.

Our shop uses Spicer mainly. A few SKFs now and then. Spider is by far the top qaulity in our experience.