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Truck died in traffic, will idle but dies with throttle (7) DTC codes

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Running fine, turn corner push to 1/4 throttle instantly dies coast to shoulder. Sits for about 10 min to give a once over. turn the key it rough idles for 2 min then smooths out.  It continued to do this rough idle start & then smooth out. Towed it home. Changed fuel filter, hooked up my Smarty to read codes. (7) codes

P0251 Fuel Inj pump fail (replaced lift pump 6 months ago carter) (I can hear it run when bumped)

P0252 Inj pump fuel metering

P1688 Internal fuel inj pump controller fail

P0254 Fuel Inj pump mech fail fuel valve

P1693 Generic fault indicating fault in bus or PCM/ECM interface

P0602 Control module programming error

P0122 TPS low voltage

I have not done anything else since changing fuel filter, I would also note that the Smarty gave me definitions slightly dif to what I looked up online such as P1693 JTEC module detectedin companion something or other.

 

Any words of wisdom before I run pump & fill the stock fuel filter system?  Thank you.

 

 

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  • dripley
    dripley

    I would say it is VP time by the looks of it.

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Both can be had at DAP. @dieselautopower   Maybe he get you a quote for a package deal... You never know...  

  • IBMobile
    IBMobile

    Diesel Auto Power was the go to for me when I needed to replace my VP44 and upgrade the injectors to RV275.  Good customer service and fast shipping.  The prices are about the same for quality parts n

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  • Author
5 hours ago, dripley said:

I would say it is VP time by the looks of it.

Ouch  Based on codes? or Behavior? or both? just trying to follow along.  TY

  • Staff

It's important to upgrade your fuel system and get away from stock system. Factory set up does not do enough to keep the injection pump from a 'slow death' as Mopar1973Man calls it. It has to be above 14 p.s.i. especially when hauling heavy, going up long grades etc. and factory system cannot keep up, so the injection pump runs hot. Combine that with the newer ULSD and the lower lubricity..... you have a situation where the new injection pump won't last long either.

 

BTW, your 75,000 on the clock is right in there where a majority of original factory injection pumps have failed. The newer ones from certified Bosch rebuildesr have the upgraded steel timing piston sleeve, but still needs 2 stroke oil in each tank to lower the cylinder scoring value (test results in a laboratory). You should put in a Timbo APPS at the same time.... much smoother, more reliable TPS.

Edited by JAG1

    • Like 1
    • Staff

    It's acting like mind did when the VP44 failed,  

     

    Do the "Hot Wire "test to verify pump.

     

     

    • Like 1
    4 hours ago, OmahaGen2 said:

    Ouch  Based on codes? or Behavior? or both? just trying to follow along.  TY

    All but 2 of the codes you have are injection pump related. Mine went at 75k also but failed differently than yours. We have seen a few folks with some high mileage out of the oe pump but that is a bit uncommon. Some pumps fail where you cant drive it and others like mine would still drove but poorly. Some give some warning while others just fail out of the blue. I ahve about 260k on my current pump who knows when it will give up. This has seen good fuel pressure with an Air Dog fuel pump and 2 stroke oil for almost all of its life.

     

    • Like 1
    • Author
    On 7/16/2019 at 12:02 PM, dripley said:

    All but 2 of the codes you have are injection pump related. Mine went at 75k also but failed differently than yours. We have seen a few folks with some high mileage out of the oe pump but that is a bit uncommon. Some pumps fail where you cant drive it and others like mine would still drove but poorly. Some give some warning while others just fail out of the blue. I ahve about 260k on my current pump who knows when it will give up. This has seen good fuel pressure with an Air Dog fuel pump and 2 stroke oil for almost all of its life.

     

    Okay well this is a wealth of information thank you to all that responded.  I am going to do the Hot Wire test tonight, but I am not sure if that will define anything since it would idle previously.

     

    I am trying NOT to live in denial about the Inj Pump failure, but it is what it is & the truck sat a long time. 

     

    I would be grateful for advice on changing out the entire system, I had planned on eliminating the OEM lift pump & the fuel filter/heater with a dual filter cartridge system, but any advise on what system has worked for others would be appreciated. I have been adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel. Anyone have any input on VP replacement?  I would of course most likely lean towards a Bosch certified dealer, I find it interesting when places offer 1 year versus 2 yr warranties like Thorughbred (I read the electronic update, etc but come on guys)

     

    Thank you again..I will try to keep this project updated with pic's & progress.

    On 7/16/2019 at 7:58 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

    Here is the Dodge FSM error codes and information.

     

     

    Thank you for the code responses, we have had 2 hail storms this season so I am very busy, but I am going to dig in and do it myself.  Any suggestions on where to get a VP pump or Quadzilla?

    • Staff
    29 minutes ago, OmahaGen2 said:

     https://www.dieselautopower.com/

     

    Diesel Auto Power was the go to for me when I needed to replace my VP44 and upgrade the injectors to RV275.  Good customer service and fast shipping.  The prices are about the same for quality parts no matter who sells them. 

     

    • Like 2

    Another vote for DAP.  Dont buy a pump from anyone who sells a pump not built by a certified rebuilder. Make sure they put new electronics it, they still can be had with old computers on them. The electronic and mechanical updates are the only way to go. A lot has changed from the OE.

     

    Check out Blue Chip diesel's trouble shooting guide for VP's. Might give you a little piece of mind on the diagnosis.

     

    As far as lift pumps I have an AIR Dog. There is also FASS in the electric side. Then Glacier diesel and the DTT assasin on the mechanical side. I have no experience with the mechanical ones but many here swear by them. My AD has failed twice in 8 years but AD has honored the warranty both times. They did have problems a while back but I hope the new 4g pump will be with me for a long time, dont know yet. Some others will chime in on that I am sure.

     

    Get at the minimum a fuel pressure gauge so you can keep an eye on the fuel system's health. You dont have to get rid of the factory filter if you dont want to. Mine is still on the truck as others have and some eleminate it. Kind of a personal prefrence.  It works fine either way.

    • Thanks 1

    I would only add that I dont have a scanner, but did order one that will be here tomorrow. I tried to do the three key turn to get a code, but all I get is a no bus....that started with a check gage notice, then a strange loss of power at the low end 

     

    I am sorry, its been hard to become a Dodge man, and my uncle and I would go back and forth, but all in good fun mind you.

    1 minute ago, Haggar said:

    The radio could be the problem..... DId the problems start with the radio?

     

    According to the FSM The radio is connected to the CCD bus.  Going to post some pages here soon.

    The electrical problems for sure, but the fuel issue no, its been going on for about 6 months, or when it gets hot again it would appear...

    Edited by TheBeast

    I have attached the FSM page.

     

    There was a connector at the radio that goes to the CTM (central timing module)  This is connected to the CCD bus (which is the network that connects all the computers in the vehicle together)

     

    These should not be connected to anything now.  If you did connect them to something, you need to start a new thread explaining what was done during the radio install and see if people that are familiar with the CCD network help you find what else may have been damaged.

     

    GL  HTH

    Hag

    2001 FSM Ram 8W-47-4.pdf

    my only recommendation would be to go mechanical lift pump...IF...

     

    you are removing factory fuel heater and dont need it, dont mind priming after filter change (mine has never lost prime), want to eliminate as many electronics as you can

     

    i run the GDP Fuel Boss, and love it. i carry an extra belt but havent needed it yet ( about 70K miles).

    Well some progress I think...I was able to trace down the cause of the power outage in the cab, the fuse for the IOD was blown, and I have started the truck, but it will not hold a charge now. The no bus remains, and the only thing I can assume now is...a new alternator....but something tells me that is just too easy.

     

    Oh and the same fuse was blown again, so some short remains somewhere I suspect?

     

    Edited by TheBeast

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