It won't be long and it'll be that time. I recently bought this truck, previous owner used regular rotella. I am considering full synthetic rotella oil. In the manual it says 7500 miles between changes, would that extend if synthetic is used?

 For those of you that run synthetic, what interval do you change yours? 

 Just a curious question to see if the extra expense has more advantage than just better oil. Thanks 

Dripley,

 You said keep tabs on that six speed, it's a five speed but, I will check it in the next day or so. Not to sound dumb but how do you check it. I'm guessing there is a plug to pull and put a finger in to check the oil level? Also, where would the reverse light switch be on the trans? My back up lights don't work, changed bulbs and still nothing. Thinking switch possibly. Thanks 

Edited January 17, 20205 yr by Doubletrouble
Forgot to add something

Not sure why I thought you a 6 speed. As you said there should be pluug on it, drivers side I would think. Have not touched a 5 speed in a very long time. They are much more economical to work on. Not sure where the revers switch is on it. Dont even remember where it is on my 6 speed, had the same issue many years ago. Should not be hard to find. Probably the only electricai connection to it.

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 Not to mention I've gotta pull the transmission again. Weller truck only rebuilt 5th gear. All the other gear have worn syncros. I use a lot of 3rd and 4th in the city. 

 

Why would a builder not inspect and repair as needed, especially something as wear prone as syncro's? I would not be happy about this.

 

I think I would change out the 50w gear oil and try something else first. My '91 Dodge w/Getrag and '74 Ford w/Clark 280VO likes it. My '01 Dodge w/NV5600 did not.

 I'll check under there for the plug and the reverse switch. I'll have some time for tinkering now since I was laid off yesterday. Hoping it'll only last for a week or two but we'll see. In the mean time, I can look alot of things over to get more familiar with the truck just won't have money for any projects for now, have to cut back for a bit.

500 or whatever mike has is alot of power.

I also believe he believes it to be reliable and was saving money.  Maybe in his head keeping prices below what a 47re costs 

 

 

 

No, I was cheap and lacking funds and told him just repair whats broken. Abe @ Weller Truck only opened the rear cover and just repaired 5th gear. If I would of order a full kit like this time I would of got it. So I paid for being cheap and not having a fat income like most others here on the forum. Trust me its not the oil. Knowing that my clutch was also worn out I had to balance between repair of the transmission and the clutch hence why no full rebuild. Most of you have to remember I live off of less than $10,000 a year. I'm sure most you make 3 times or 5 times this much. If I'm driving for my Mom 3 days a week for dialysis. Then trying to work the other 3 days and taking 1 day off on Sunday. People tend to forget I'm not working a normal 5 day a week paying job.

 

Any way I'm out of Mobil 50 nothing left. 

 

 

Edited January 17, 20205 yr by Mopar1973Man

I hear you moparman. I would like to do alot if things to the truck but funds will keep me reeled in for a while. When I do take it in for the syncros I will try to have extra set aside for the possibility of new clutch and any other things they may find wrong while in there. Rather have it all done at once but again, fund permitting.

I know there are several people here with deep pockets and can do anything.

 

My clutch is new already (Dual disc Valair) which I hate nasty launch chatter. It's worse than my old single ConOFE South Bend. But I own it for now. These are the syncros from way back on the first rebuild when I broke the mainshaft back at 250k miles or so. Lots of both highway and city driving. (Broken the mainshaft right at 3rd and 4th gear with Edge Comp and stock injectors)

 

Then the other thing most don't know is @Wet Vette is have heart issues so that kept me from working this last month with running back and forth to ER and the hospital in Boise. Then @MoparMom has skin cancer and dementia starting. Which now is taking more of my working time for her appointments here soon. 

 

Which all these affect what I've got for income and what I can repair. But hey I did have a thread stated talking about my crazy life but I got complaints about it so it was deleted. But then there people thinking I'm living the high life and no worries in the world... Far from true...

I'm not a rich man either, my want list is way longer than my money will stretch most of the time.

 I'll be trying to plan repairs and upgrades on the truck in stages that I can handle.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

No, I was cheap and lacking funds and told him just repair whats broken. Abe @ Weller Truck only opened the rear cover and just repaired 5th gear. If I would of order a full kit like this time I would of got it. So I paid for being cheap 

 

 

 

According to this invoice your tranny pretty much received a complete rebuild, including syncro's. Maybe the heavy twin disk clutch is giving you false feelings of syncro issues, slow your shifts down. Again, I would try a different gear oil before I pulled out a (possibly) perfectly good tranny.

 

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/16584-nv4500-broke/?do=findComment&comment=216697

Regardless it being pulled gear lube isn't going to fix it. Gear oil would make all gears grind. 

 

Clutch is not it. 1st, 2nd, and 5th work fine. 3rd grinds 100% of the time, 4th only at highway speeds it grinds. 

 

Still under warranty still. Hence why I'm pulling it. Also trans was warranty with the Mobil 50. Even then it's covered.

Edited January 17, 20205 yr by Mopar1973Man

Based on your 1000-1200 miles/week those synchros have what 20K miles on them? Of which 70% is highway miles... You’re not willing to try another fluid? 
 

Gear oil wouldn’t have to make all gears grind if it was a fluid/clutch “argument”. 3rd and 4th are the common gears to show this.

 

The fluid and clutch might not get along. Another fluid is much cheaper and easier than pulling the trans. Find some GL-4 75w-90 and try it. 
 

 

Also, if it’s under warranty why not have them pull it? Save some of your time. 

Edited January 17, 20205 yr by AH64ID

Another plus of changing oil is you can inspect what is in it, possible brass or anything at all that don't belong.

 

When I tried it in my '01, cold days were the worst, warm days were fine. Shifting quality was/is night and day between the 50w and 15/40 engine oil, in my NV5600. It was like the 50w synthetic was just too slick.

i do my oil changes "around" 10k miles.  use rotella with new filter. no problems. i dont tow either and at the rate of such low miles i drive it i only have to change every few years lol

7 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

i do my oil changes "around" 10k miles.  use rotella with new filter. no problems. i dont tow either and at the rate of such low miles i drive it i only have to change every few years lol

For me it's almost every month.

34 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

i do my oil changes "around" 10k miles.  use rotella with new filter. no problems. i dont tow either and at the rate of such low miles i drive it i only have to change every few years lol

 

Without a UOA you really shouldn't run oil much longer than a year, regardless of miles. As soon as drive the oil starts breaking down and will age out before it wears our or gets contaminated out with low miles, but it will age out. 

 

This is especially important with modern oils as CK oils don't have the TBN that CI oils did. TBN isn't depleted as quickly during use with ULSD, but TBN still depletes while sitting.

 

I've seen oils deplete their TBN in 12 months and low miles on UOA, so just passing the info along. 

1 hour ago, AH64ID said:

 

Without a UOA you really shouldn't run oil much longer than a year, regardless of miles. As soon as drive the oil starts breaking down and will age out before it wears our or gets contaminated out with low miles, but it will age out. 

 

This is especially important with modern oils as CK oils don't have the TBN that CI oils did. TBN isn't depleted as quickly during use with ULSD, but TBN still depletes while sitting.

 

I've seen oils deplete their TBN in 12 months and low miles on UOA, so just passing the info along. 

Is it safe in the container before you put it in the engine for use? I guess I mean shelf life.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Is it safe in the container before you put it in the engine for use? I guess I mean shelf life.

 can I call I, yes because it hasn't reacted with any foreign materials. Or so I think...

Yes, it’s the acids from combustion that effect TBN. 

You both get a gold star. The answer is what l thought but l had to ask.