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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/12/2017 in all areas

  1. I can almost hear Jeff Foxworthy in the background: "If, for any reason, you find yourself with three open beers at the same time.......you might be a redneck" ;) lol
  2. Thats a whole new concept. Keeping the beer warm enough to drink.
  3. Just an update for those interested in what Richard@GDP had to say about using a Fuel Boss alongside the in-tank pump on my 2001. First of all, you all were right - what a great guy. Easy to talk to, picked up the phone right away, and is a straight shooter. In fact, he told me I really don't need to change anything on the truck at the moment...more on that later. I can definitely run a Fuel Boss alongside my in-tank pump in order to have it for priming and as an on-the-fly backup in case the Fuel Boss belt breaks or something like that. What I need to do if I go this route is make the order over the phone, as he will get me the 2005-2007 install kit, but with the 2001 pump mounting bracket. The 05-07 kit includes its own draw-straw style pickup tube that the Fuel Boss will pull from. Then after leaving the pump, you T to the factory filter and to the return. The existing in-tank pump continues to be plumbed directly to the factory filter as well, with a check valve in place so that it only runs and pumps fuel if/when the Fuel Boss is not keeping up to pressure. This way the in-tank will run during starting and for priming, and if the Fuel Boss stops working. Otherwise, the Hobbs switch turns off the in-tank as soon as pressure is up. He said at least half of their customers use no electric lift pump whatsoever. As long as you don't lose prime, you never need to use the electric during starting. When it comes time to prime, you can either remove the inlet line from the VP and crank the engine to pull fuel through, or some people just pop the belt off the Fuel Boss and spin it with a drill or something similar, and manually prime it that way. Rich then asked me what my current numbers were on my in-tank. When I told him 8 idle and that I can drop it below 5 when I step on the gas he said "That's normal, probably been those same numbers since it was installed. If you're not modifying the truck at all, I'd just drive and enjoy it." The majority of the failed VPs that he has seen have boiled down to a build issue with the board, not having anything to do with fuel pressure. On mine particularly, since the VP44 was replaced in 2008 with a new one from Chrysler, I should have one of the newer "good" ones that do not have this design flaw, and it'll probably run forever just like it is. While that makes me feel better about puttsing around with it here and there unloaded, I still plan to upgrade the lift pump before I tow anything serious with it. ;)
  4. Ditch digging pays pretty good.....because those jobs are usually social service positions. The days of digging ditches with shovels for pennies are no longer.
  5. Thanks for testing that @TFaoro
  6. Just remember if they do have one I am pretty sure you have to get programmed. Cummins wont program it for a Dodge.
  7. I have had to have 3 beers cracked open at the same time while drinking outside in sub zero temps as they would start to freeze up within a minute of opening them up, would have them lined up on the defroster of the vehicle, take a couple drinks from one switch it out for another that had time to partially thaw and on it went this while still farming doing cattle checks at night, thawing out cattle fountains and what not tasks.
  8. At .05 AC volts may or may not create random issues. Kind of breaking point depending on the vehicle. Beyond 0.05 it tend to get more absolute and more of a problem.
  9. Looks like dripley after getting his foundation guys straightened out
  10. All about $$$. We went thru similar issues with OSHA during the great recession. They even hired more inspectors during the time.Violations=fines=revenue=paycheck.
  11. Yep that are exactly 0 new ecms out there. You need to get one rebuilt or get one out of a running truck. I would suggest the rebuild route but ensure you get a good warranty.
  12. Sounds like your rather aggressive when you are offroading. I'm travel a lot of forestry roads and haul lots of firewood in the summer time. Typically I'm rather mello when I travel back roads being failures might leave you walking a very long ways to get help.
  13. If you don't have the quad high idle enabled then the quad isn't do anything at idle state. TPS must be above 0% for the quad to send fueling commands or it has to have high idle enabled. If you have factory high idle enabled I would HIGHLY suggest not using the Quadzilla high idle as they do not play nice together.
  14. Didn't even make it out of driveway CEL came on cruise indicator was coming off and on, on its own and dead pedal. Safe to assume the ECM is shot? Checked for vAC as well
  15. Disconnecting the batteries does NOT reset codes nor does it fix any problems. All error codes are held for 40 warm up cycles then erased if there is no future codes in the 40 warm up cycles.
  16. 1 point
    1) Sand drags on Silver Lake Sand Dunes. 2) So people know you are on the other side of a hill due to the dunes. Visibility 3) Unorganized. Line 2-15 trucks, buggies, quads, or dirt bikes up at the start line and someone on the side will let a flag go to start. Trucks and buggies race together. Quads and dirt bikes race each other. For safety reasons. Side lines are the hangout spot for people watching the races.
  17. Don't think I've ever introduced myself on here so here goes. My name is Scott and first I want to thank everybody for such kindness and great feedback. I really look for that in a forum. I don't cuss, don't drink (maybe a beer or two per year though some of my truck mods/repairs I've done should have required whiskey!) I'm happily married for 16 years and have 3 wonderful kids (11, 9, & 6). We cannot emphasis how much we LOVE camping trips together and that involves pulling with the ole mule. I'm happy to say today that I got my first compliment on my rig from a co-worker who is a chevy guy. He said that it was the best running 2nd gen he's ever been in! I own an outdoor wood stove that keeps me busy hauling wood in winter to keep us warm at home. I work in the aerospace and ocean engineering machine shop on campus at Virginia Tech as a senior mechanical designer. If I can ever be of assistance for things needing machined, please pm me. We have some flexibility here to help people out on jobs when we are real busy doing university work. Thanks again for the great and reliable expertise here on my '02 HO cummins. God Bless! PS-I worked really hard for this massive load of wood so I thought I'd show off the ole mule doing some work!
  18. 1 point
    Maybe maybe not. You need to get up under the front while someone turns the wheel back and forth and start looking for movement in all the parts connected to the steering box all the way out to the wheels. Check the track bar also. If you have movement in any of these parts that would be the most or all of your problem. The steering box has an adjustment screw on top of the box. It has a jam nut holding it in place. You loosed the jam nut and screw it in about 1/8th of turn and see how that helps. You have to be careful with that adjustment, to much and the steering will not return and the box will fail completely.
  19. Is the reason I carry a spare, mine has been going for 6 years and about a 100k, I don't know what assembly line it came off of but just don't have the level of trust in it I should. The first one only lasted two weeks and locked up. I checked the gear rotors and they were clean but the shaft would not turn. I called air dog and told them and they sent me a replacement and did not want the old one back. So I tore the old one down and used visegrips on the driveshaft and it finally broke free, and thier were some contacts that looked burnt and I cleaned them up and bench tested it and seemed to work ok. So it might work for a spare but for how long who knows, but it may get me home if needed. That's good to hear jag
  20. I tore my old AD apart after it started leaking outside, it was a tiny seal that seals on Armature shaft, it put some nice groves in shaft too. I ended up rebuilding it with random parts and a small seal I got on line, there is a leak hole between motor and filter housing and if it gets pluged, then when seal goes instead of fuel going outside it will go inside motor. But I also bought a fast and been running it since. Ad is a back up now. I hope AD and Fassett can figure a better seal than that tiny thing I seen, mabe something like a mechanical seal, but I'm guessing it will raise price too much. Also I used a shim so new seal was in different place and brushes still looked great.
  21. Pffffft..... Who needs one of those fancy tools. Assembly is so easy, especially when you can easily stink up the house warming up a can of engine oil on the kitchen stove and then simply dunking the end of the hose for a few minutes. You'll only pop a few eye blood vessels and hopefully not blow though your shorts as you soil yourself trying to shove the two pieces together with all the strength you can muster.....generally resulting in a small gap between hose and fitting as you near the end, followed by some harsh language. Maybe I do need one.
  22. The above link I posted is also genuine oe from dealers. It's back stock and N.O.S parts when I get parts from them they are in MOPAR packages and come from different dealers throughout the country, every dealer has checked out so far.... The more information the better that's what we're here for.
  23. My 2000 had this issue for 3 years. It worked fine. The pedal has a bit of a "kick" to it when you first apply it. In the summer it would overheat and puke fluid everywhere, but once warmed up it was fine. I thought I had old fluid so decided I would just refil it and let it purge itself. Strangely, it never worked. Thankfully, I am no longer using such archaic maintenance practices. Flushing it and refilling with synthetic fluid didn't fix it either. I want to fix my 02. I read that it isn't the pump, its the hydroboost system. Somewhere in there, it has a sick seal that I popped by standing on the brakes too hard during ABS operation. It seems to take fluid from the high pressure side and shoot it back to the low pressure side while restricting the flow from the pump inside the hydroboost. Practical testing will prove if this is truth or not. I bought a seal kit for 23 bucks, as the only hydroboost units I found were like $500-700. Pirate Jack I think was the vendor. I plan on doing it sometime in February if you want in on the party.
  24. Also the switch is only a trigger to enable the mode, it cannot cancel the mode. It far to simple of a switch to try and automate it.
  25. In our thoughts and prayers.
  26. Hollar if you need something and I'll see what I can do.
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