Leaderboard

Yes that is normal. After no electrical activity the latch will turn off (about 30 min.) You can check this by opening the driver side window and walk away for a 1 hour (it may be as short as 30 min.). When you come back to the truck reach through the window try to pull the seat belt without opening the door and it should be locked and the current draw should be nil.If you open the door the timer will restart.

Well i did decide to try another fluid since I am changing the pto covers and I will be using Red Line 85 since it looks like they actually spec it with NV4500 on the bottle, I hope it makes my dual disc a little easier but it is pretty good as it is. Will report back good or bad.

Much easier... https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-02-Dodge-Ram-Overhead-Console-Map-Light-Wiring-w-Switches-MOPAR-OEM-5013609AA/333030904466?fits=Make%3ADodge&epid=1717868005&hash=item4d8a305292:g:EugAAOSwlkpcSHD~ Look like white to the center contact and the other two go to the outside contact. So no matter what the light bulb has contact to either the yellow in one position and then black in the other position. So yellow being the door pin ground or black being force ground. The pink is the +12V. While that is out change the stock bulbs for LED's less heat up there for the switch and everything.

I lost one of the plug bolts coming down the siskiyous towing wives trailer. I burned a hole about the size of a silver dollar what's above the hole. Scared me and my wife half a death as it made a hell of a noise. BD recommended some type of "security" wire, so the plug bolts wouldn't come out again. After looking for "stainless steel dowling" about half a day. Finaly brain engaged. At bicycle shop picked up some "stainless steel dowling". Better known as a bicycle spoke.

For a few years now I have had a woodworking business on the side as a hobby/extra income. I do a lot of wood turning, mainly bowls, as well as custom furniture. I use only traditional joinery techniques with no metal fasteners. If you've ever watched Roy Underhill on the Wood Wright's shop, that's what I'm going for. I started looking for a new niche side hustle that both myself and my wife can do. My brother has a pretty successful CNC routing side business that he does pretty well with. I was looking for something similar but didn't want to step on his toes, so I bought a CNC Fiber Laser. It's a 20w Chinese special . To buy something similar made in the US would have run around 15k. I didn't want to invest that much and my venture be a failure. I pulled the trigger on it right after Christmas and it should be off the boat early next week. I'm excited to get it. It can engrave just about any material and comes with a rotary positioner to do round objects like YETI cups, etc. There's going to be a substantial learning curve on operating it but I have a CAD and robotics background so it shouldn't be too bad. I'm applying for my FFL in order to be able to engrave firearms also. There's some great fiber laser videos on YOUTUBE if you want to check them out. Will have better pics once I get it!

No, IIRC that is the normal operation for the belt to be free for a while and then the solenoid in the seats will discharge and lock up until you open the door again.

All in fun Mike L8tr D

OMG... Geez, you guys are a tough crowd.

Like @Mopar1973Man mentioned they are very similar, and like @trreed said there are some differences, main one is the exhaust on my turbo is still 3" where the s362 is 4" so the 4-inch one will flow better. If it wasn't for my exhaust brake I would have went with s362. This is the turbo I got from link I posted above compared to hx35. I would call them and talk to Zack is who helped me, he should be able to answer all the questions. I remember that it's hx35 exhaust housing that is ported for a bigger wheel from some other holset turbo that was used on some other big engine, then the intake housing is from hx40, billet extended tip compressor wheel and all genuine holset parts nothing from china.

I ordered ujoints, 2 Dana Spicer 5213X and 1 Dana Spicer 51309X ball kit, acdelco 45U0708 dust boot, Spicer 2-86-418 Hopefully I can get this thing back together and be done with the vibration I had

How @Mopar1973Man really makes his brakes last.

Me. I would love to have the badge without the LED.

Since 05 or 06. Always worked well other than that bolt falling out as mentioned above. But for other reasons I am never going to buy any BD product again.

I would have to say it's probably your apps sensor, since you can see it showing 100% percent when it's actually not. Just a guess but if it was me that's probably what I would change, make sure you buy a Timbo, it's at the end of this article

I agree. My temps are over 500 at idle when I use it for warm up. On a 5 mile 6% down grade, heavy load and high RPM mine is more like 800.

Thank you for the pictures and info. I have one that is 2 years old, so some day I will need this rebuild info. I think mine has a 4 year warranty. When it goes, I might need to up grade to the next size.