Leaderboard

That's cheap way to do it but still way better to remove all that and ground it directly at the Vp44 and not even have the ground heading to the passenger but to the driver side battery. Then the charge wire goes to the passenger battery with a 150A breaker or fuse.

Item #32 is the grommet, MOPAR part number is 04429451. Whoever is responsible for EACH grommet costing $20+ should be taken behind the barn for a "discussion".

Ok thank you

From pin #4 at the APP sensor to pin #32 at the ECM. It is the accelerator pedal position sensor ground wire to the ECM.

This is repairing the ground splices, not the ones at the back of the timing cover, that go to the right side battery. This was missed in the W-T modification. It is an extra repair step in improving the deficient Dodge wire harness. You may also look into adding an inline fuse to the blue wire that goes from the alternator to the PCM for PCM protection. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/

That is for the rear drop pipe. It has to be threaded to install and remove.

I've learned how by reading the article about replacing the VP44 injection pump. Removing the high pressure lines is pretty easy, but, you need the crows foot or fuel line wrenches. They will be a big help. 19mm fits the top and at the injection pump. My lines were so tight going into the head that they were going to strip using the open end, but the crows foot got them loose in a hurry w/o a problem. Be sure and remove them in racks of three or you will have a confusing mess going back together. 1st rack is 1,2,4 second rack is 3,5,6. you just remove the bolts holding them down to the intake manifold. and they stat together in threes.

Go over to Quadzilla Power website. https://quadzillapower.com/quadzilla-power-high-idle-switch/

I replaced mine with a steeI replacement from Heater Treater. Never have to worry again.

I'm trying to get them back into production. You just got to hang in there.

Didn't you mean 'ground it to the back of the gear case under the VP44 into the threaded bolt hole there? The size is in mm, fairly small, so you have to run to the hardware store and get one that fits.

Video adds a much needed visual for some (like myself). My first time changing 5.9 Cummins injectors and with this article and videos as well as an article by mopar1973man, all went smooth. Took my time and finished the job in about 3 hours. Truck is running great, no leaks. Thanks !!

If your referring to the connection he's holding near the driver's side battery it's a ground wire made from the leftover wire from the passenger side. Lug each end then connect one end to the neg battery post and the other to the gear case bolt down near the vp44.

Yes. It just fire protection if the alternator shorts out. Make sure your cable is up to the task too. Upgrade to heavier cable would be a bonus.

No. I went with the 150 amp fuse while others went with a good quality 150 amp breaker. A cheap breaker trips all the time. Either way it's protection if the alternator shorts to ground.

Missing diagrams below charging system

Step three says check for continuity. I found on my there is a little continuity but not enough to beep. I'm assuming any reading means there is continuity. Where does the black/yellow wire run to? Blue/white wire has continuity to ECM pin 31.

I will add that I've done many of these now. Seriously it way easier to do it in a full removed HVAC and best to do it them without all the troubles of working in tight quarters between the transmission hump and the HVAC case. Make sure you reindex the gears inside the stepper motor. If not it creates all kind of weirdness too.

Is the bleed hole in the relief valve to allow air to leave the system, for instance when priming? Wouldn't need to be very big to flow a significant amount of air. I would find it very interesting to set up a test of how much diesel goes through that hole during normal operation, and the temperature change, to calculate the amount of heat being removed. Also, to see effects on fuel pressure and heat removal by drilling out a little larger. Alas, I now have two young kids and a non-understanding wife... Someday maybe I will be allowed to conduct such experiments in the name of "science experiments" for the kids!

Where do the NPT fittings go in this assembly?

I dont remember anymore, but i prob ran the cross over cable for the lights on the battery cross over cable

There is no point in a pre install calibration.

Pretty sure this dimension should be ~ 0.0800 WARNING ! : Its advised that you not turn this more then 2 Full turns clockwise! For those who are technically inclined that is .800" of an inch.

You'll have to PM the author. Most likely they where on Photobucket and Photobucket shutdown their free access. Sorry...

A spongy clutch pedal is a sign of air in the system. You have to pull the entire system out ot bleed it. There is a large loop that is above the reservoir height so it common for air bubbles to hang in that loop. The only way to get them out is to remove it, hang the system, then bleed it. Highly suggest against the upgrade. Way too many people play with the adjust and hyperextend the throwout bearing past the pressure plate fingers trying to make up for poorly bleed clutch system with air.

That's exactly the reasons

Responding to this old post, but I believe the point of the Timbo APPS upgrade is its less than half the cost and better quality than the problematic OEM APPS.

I realize this is a dated post but WOW! JAG took the words right out of my mouth, great minds think alike! Absolutely amazing. What a remarkable example of engineering, ingenuity, and down right American resourcefulness. Great job!

W-T is suggesting adding a second ground across the radiator to the driver side. Measuring voltage drop between the battery and block won't change. Way to test, is use jumper cables and jump between both negative terminals and check for volt age drop again. So far I've not found any gains.