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Welp, just ponied up for another year, and I've got to say that this one of the better expenses that I have. The amount of technical knowledge, experience, and willingness to share is outstanding and needs to be supported. For those of you who use this site for information and advise (as I do) remember, it costs money to keep it up and running. Mike and his Mods aren't trying to make money, they're just trying to cover costs. For less than $10 bucks a month we can maintain this site, and continue to have access to one of, if not the best sites for our trucks. Remember, information not shared, is information lost. Mark

On September 6, 2016, I wrote the article "Adding inline power steering filter with system flush" and posted it in 24 valve 2ed generation/Axles, Suspension & Brakes. This is the follow up to that article. Update...7/25/2025 It has been 8years 9months and 44,888 miles since I installed the Magnefine filter and flushed the power steering system, so it was time to flush the power steering fluid and replace the filter again. I used an oil syringe fluid evacuator pump this time to remove and refill the fluid at the power steering pump. The picture below shows the first time the fluid was removed from the system It took 5 remove, refill, and run engine for 4secounds to get the fluid to this clear color, about 2qts. Here is the filter cut open. It looks like the filter could last 60,000+ miles before changing. There was just a fine film on the magnet.

Big thanks to you for getting those computers back to me. Also, I messaged Mike on here this morning and he was a phone call away in no time helping me source this issue! That’s a community This is why I really enjoy this forum. In the beginning we had Dave Fritz/Dodgeram.org, now we have TDR (to some extent). Finally we have this place where all the mysteries have been solved. Don’t forget Mike as we discussed: You may perish of cancer but the forum lives forever, so you live forever!

Thank you for the wonderful comment. Truth yes it's still paying to keep the server alive and keep paying the bills. Remember Mopar1973Man.Com is the LAST PRIVATELY OWNED WEBSITE left. I'm not owned by a corporate clearing house like Cummins Forum which is owned by VerticalScope Inc. Or DieselBombers which is owned by Internet Brands. All these other websites are corporate owned groups.

@Mopar1973Man It looks like he has the updated main shaft already. I purchased several of my transmission parts from Allstate Gear online. The 5th gear nut I used was their "super nut" kit that cane in the master rebuild kit that I bought. I has to replace all 3 shafts, input shaft, counter shaft and the kit came with the full spline updated main shaft as well. My trans was trashed. The main shaft bearing in the front took a massive dump and trashed everything. Also, get a big torque wrench! As Mike mentioned, the 5th gear nut needs to be torqued to 300ft/lbs. DO NOT use a chisel and hammer and think it's good. It isnt. I post some pics of mine below. The carnage More carnage New input shaft and counter shaft New counter shaft in place, reused the small reverse idler. Case has been cleaned here also New main shaft installed, also replaced the tail housing with a cast iron piece. OEM was aluminum and had the mount holes hogged out of round. Now, the shift ring or collar that I have circled in this pic are important! I installed the ring backwards. If you look closely the ring is flat on one side and has a tapper on the other. The flat side has to go toward the large gear to the right as shown in the pic. Due to installing that ring backwards I do not have the use of 1st gear. I don't need it unless towing and I will pill it and make it right, just haven't yet. Hope all this helps!

Well I'm coming back. I'll admit I'm not able to do a lot of jobs. Anything in the heavy lift is over. Currently have Thor stuffed in the house garage and getting ready to go back over the injectors again. Now Thor my 2006 Common rail is my pet project. Like a Phoenix rising from the ashes the new version of me will be going public. Sadly no more wrench time for me. I'll still play with my own rigs. My problem is I've got to consider my stoma and kidneys. So I'll continue my education of the Cummins line. As for my medical issues I'm clean of cancer nearly 6 months. Check up coming. I'm stuck with Stage 3 Cronic Kidney disease this is due to my kidneys being choked by the cancer. The website I'm going to upgrade software and there is a lot of new features coming. Stay tuned in. There is a feature to have live chats again and when the chat ends it will convert the chat unto a forum thread auto-magically. One of many.

I thought I’d share my recent drivetrain upgrade I put in my 01’ 3500 (SRW converted) 6 spd. On transfer case side of things swapping a NP271D in is pretty common for a 2nd gen. I wanted to take it one step farther. It took some trial & error finding what parts will work and what doesn’t. It’s pretty much a modified Ford design. I found a used 08’ NP271D and rebuilt/modified it. Eliminated the leaky Dodge slip yoke tail housing and utilized the rear fixed flange yoke setup from a 06’ NP273F. I bought the rebuild kit, some updated parts & specific seal installers from TorqueKing4x4. I also installed the Ford style companion flange on my Dana 80 along with a new washer, nut & seal. ***Snap-On # M3586 is the correct thin walled 1-7/8” socket if you ever need it.*** Initially had a 5” aluminum driveshaft but the Sonax slip yoke kit is quite expensive so I had a 4” steel one locally made and upsized it to 1480 greasable ujoints (OEM are 1410). T/case fits perfectly. There’s 1/8” of clearance at the frame and no contact at bottom of cab. The 2nd Gen linkage rod (11”) is a tad short so even set at max travel the shifter will be off just a touch. So I replaced it with the 3rd Gen 16” one and now it’s perfect. I don’t have the cad Dana 60 so the momentary ball switch from the old NP241D-HD just swaps over to make the 4wd light come on. I have the LRG trans crossmember so I didn’t have any interference with the front driveshaft. APPS delete ✅ Midrange power steering ✅ Electric vacuum pump ✅ Next project: Dynatrac high pinion 35 spline Dana 60 3.73 gears with an electric locker… Enjoy!

Mike if you lived closer I would kiss you. I had to remove the t-case boot to replace some wires and left it in neutral. 🤦‍♂️

Transfer case in neutral?

Well the news isn’t good, after talking with the folks at GoECM they have confirmed the processor is bad in my ECM and is not repairable. Thankfully they are applying my repair cost towards the purchase of a new(reman) unit. I would assume this may be why the ACS repair didn’t work. I don’t know enough about these things to know if they would have been able to test this in depth. Their cost was much cheaper than GoECM so I’m not going to say anything negative about them. According to the info ACS sent me it sounds like they tested and repaired the parts I knew weren’t working. I’ll update again when I receive the new ECM and get it installed.

I hope they find what the problem is. Please let us know how it works out with this ECM repair shop so we can update the article "List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Rebuilders" in the 24 Valve 2ed generation engine section.

Wanted to show something here. Here’s the new APPS, number on it is 133284, same as the Timbo. Even though I ordered a 131973 this is what comes now. You can buy these at any truck dealership. Here’s a pic of my relocation bracket.

I would like to introduce myself to all of you. I met Michael last July in Meridian, Idaho at a medical facility. He had a follow up appointment for his urostomy/ileostomy, while I was getting wound care treatment for my ankle. We briefly met at this place once before but had not been able to chat. On this particular July day, we had a few minutes to chat. As I learned more about Michael's life, I realized that he is an amazingly unique person with a kind heart and good old fashioned values. Upon listening to how he sacrificed on behalf of his mother's need for dialysis in the midst of dealing with his bladder cancer, I began to highly respect and admire this wonderful man. He genuinely cares for people. I knew he was amazingly unique...and I did NOT want to lose track of him. So...I asked for his phone number immediately after he was called in for his appointment. I wanted to know more about him. The crazy thing is that I was adamantly resolved to never get involved with another man at that time! However, we have NOT been apart for more than a few consecutive days since the time we met up at his house shortly after our encounter in Meridian! My interest grew even more when I learned he's a Diesel Mechanic. I was already familiar in auto mechanics, as my dad was an auto mechanic himself doing it as a hobby. I come with a small background in basic auto mechanics...my dad graciously taught me how to do a few maintenance repairs on my own car. To further expand my knowledge base, I have recently joined the Mopar1973man website as Michael's partner, another site administrator and his "soon to be" wife! Our plan is to get married this Spring! We have discussed a few exciting ideas that we would like to implement in the future. We are also working on improving this website for all of you. Be safe out there on those roads!! And...stay tuned!!

WT mod should be done in full first. I don’t have much troubleshooting experience with autos as I have the 6 spd but from what I understand a lot of issues are solved when the mod is done. At least you can rule that out.

We were right, the harness itself was wired incorrectly. IAT and ECT plugs reversed. New harness arrived and problem solved! 3 and 6 both work with correct values displayed.

@mace, I have performed the power steering pump and vacuum pump conversion that you brought to this site. I hope you are still perusing the site and will see this. The time and effort spent on this project (and the APPS relocate) has been very worthwhile. Much engine space has been freed up and the power steering reservoir is right where it should be for easy fluid check / fill. The reservoir is like the brake master cylinder reservoir – you can see the fluid level through the reservoir. An unexpected benefit is that this direct mount power steering pump outperforms any previous power steering pump that has been on this truck. There is no more stopping of the steering wheel when the power steering is under high demand, such as when maneuvering in tight spaces, steering from stop to stop with little forward or backward movement of the truck. I started the project by finding a location for the new power steering reservoir, which was going to be right where the APPS assembly used to be. Then I built a mounting bracket for the reservoir (shown below). The first part of the bracket assembly is designed to let the weight of the oil and reservoir rest in the V slot. In the above photo, note the welded nut where the tab on the top of the reservoir is screwed into the bracket. In the photos below, more brackets are added to fasten the unit to the engine. Below is the new location for the reservoir in the engine compartment - lots of space available for mounting with the removal of the APPS and APPS mounting assembly. I don't have any photos of the actual pump mount, but the mounting is straight forward, especially with the addition of studs instead of bolts. Much easier installation the old vacuum pump / power steering pump combination was. I didn't use a gasket - just the grey Permatex RTV gasket maker. The one thing that Mace did that I should have done (which he clearly mentioned) is to have the pump suction fitting turned down on a lathe from 22 mm to 19 mm to match the 19 mm connection on the reservoir. Because I didn't do that, I have not-so-neat connections from the pump suction to the reservoir (another reason to not take a photo down there). @Mace, thank you again for making this possible. That’s all, folks! John

One step closer

This is an entirely new method of not just relocating the controller but making one from scratch. It's independent of an ECU. I made a github project with all the details https://github.com/Greatwrk/VP44-EXPLORER

Glade to hear it. This means that GoECM fixed what ACS could not. A big plus for GoECM.

After some thinking and talking to the wife, I’ve decided to send the ecm to someone else. I think the problem with ACS may be that their repair is based solely on the information I give them. The shop that fixed my turbos recommended a place they use out of Texas. I called them today and they test and check the entire unit. Just found out today my daughter can’t take drivers ed for a few more months so I’m gonna use the money we saved for that to get it done.

:) only 300 miles so not really put it to a test yet.... but I haven't noticed any more peppiness. But you have to remember, my turbo was creating boost... just sending oil along with it.... so I am seeing the same boost levels.... I don't expect much to change minus not consuming oil.

SO... new turbo installed, apparently (only a 100 miles in) I no longer am losing oil. A few things to note... NO ONE knows what the "w" is for on the HX35w, I"m calling it "W" for WING... because the HX35 has a bracket for the waste gate which won't work on our trucks... the true "W" does. After I ordered my Rotomaster Reman Stock Turbo 99-02 I did find some actual "W" turbos for less... but considering I had to send mine back for a core $560 was not bad...just knowing it was all American... $250 and not sending my core in would have been nice, I could have rebuilt it myself and had a backup for when the Chinesium turbo failed.... I did paint some items to match. Here are the photos. One of which was the OLD oil drain into the crank case... I THOUGHT the wastegate tubing was going to come in blue... so I'll replace it later. IT BLEW BLACK smoke the first 10 miles, I am pretty sure that was just getting rid of the soot that had built up in the tail pipe.. because after it ran clean.

Heater hose will work for the drain to block connection.

Observing soot at the end of the tailpipe is normal for this era of truck, especially if you have larger than stock injectors. Disconnect the compressor discharge plumbing from the turbo and inspect for an oily mess. Then, disconnect the exhaust band on the exhaust side and inspect for the same. It is possible. The hone pattern intentionally put into the cylinder walls is used as a mild abrasive to condition the outer wear surface of the piston rings for the first 1,000 miles or so of driving. During this period of time, the best mating of the rings to the cylinder wall will occur, resulting in the least oil consumption and least engine blow-by. Using a slippery synthetic oil during break-in reduces the effectiveness of the abrasive characteristics of honing the cylinder walls - it will have a more likely effect of polishing the piston rings and the cylinder walls, resulting in more oil consumption and more engine blow-by. Try performing the oil cap rattle test for the poor man's method of checking engine blow-by. John

Just remember just one wire pinched in behind part, bolt, or bracket could do it. I had one where the PCM burned up because one wire was rubbing on the trans dipstick tube and fried the voltage regulator.

They listed a ton of possible causes for failure to check. Basically every sensor on the truck, damage to the harness, TSB’s, faulty grounds, etc. The truck ran perfectly and has for the last ten years when I pulled into the garage so I had no clue what to even look at. I did check some of the harness and found one tiny hole in a wire possibly from a probe, it wasn’t close to touching anything but I wrapped it up anyway. If I have time this weekend I plan to go through the whole thing and check all the grounds and fuses.

I ordered a front drive shaft from Torque King today. The sell strap and bolt kits for this application. https://torqueking.com/product/40709/qu40709-universal-joint-strap-and-bolt-kit-for-spicer-1350-or-1410-yokes/?searchid=1393311&search_query=driveshaft+strap+and+bolt+kit

I appreciate the phone call as well. Good to chat with someone that actually knows what they're talking about! I hope to update this next week with a solution! This has been an ongoing thing for years now!

This photo is of a typical 12 valve engine. No crossover tubes. Fuel line are connected directly to the injectors, so injectors can be shimmed. John

Running boards ready for dry fit. I know I have notch something for the cab mounts.

My buddy traded me a first gen 6bt to do some body work for him on his truck. So several patch panels later I got a "free" engine.

Congratulations

Currently I have a wif sensor in the airdog water separator. Removed the drain and put the sensor in. I ran a jumper harness from that to the engine harness plug. Like I mentioned I unplugged it at the harness side and it’s still stays on. I’m not sure if this is a problem from ACS. I did order a new apps through my work (Inland Kenworth). Williams Control 131973. I should have it by Tuesday. Hopefully it solves my P0122 issue, I will check the wiring harness I made when I relocated in on Monday to confirm is not melted or something.

Keep working the issues! I know there are several new sleep apnea options out there that are way less of a PITA than the standard old school options were.

Sorry for the late update. I was able to replace 5th gear and make it home without issue. It was a heck of a lot harder to torque that nut to spec than expected, but I got it and it seems to be holding fine for now. Thank you everyone for your help!

Not a problem and your welcome always here to support the Cummins family.

Give Module masters a call in Moscow Idaho. https://mopar1973man.com/vendor.htm/vendor/module-master-r8/

I had a feeling that you would go back to the first running board after you had better results with the second running board. That's not "OCD" - that's a "good decision"! - John

Yesterday, I put your situation in the "911" section of the TDR, but so far no response - but, it was a weekend. Here is what I posted, "Trying to help someone out here. Fellow has a '99 2WD Dodge Cummins truck. He is 1100 miles from home and has lost 5th gear. He wants to know if he can remove 5th gear and drive home, or if anyone knows of a reliable manual transmission repair shop in the Fort Myers, Florida area. Thanks," I let you know if / when I hear anything. - John

The winter covers definitely work. I bought mine from Genos 2 years ago. What a difference in the winter. Warm up times are much shorter and she holds heat a little better also.

Have you ever considered an Alice Cooper look? Mark

All your testing are no good. You need a DVM capable of less than 2 volts AC with multiple frequencies, not just 60 hz. A household DVM will do this, which is why your test data is confusing. Look for a DVM like a Fluke or SnapOn DVMs which are very capable of multifrequencies and voltages less than 2 volts. Just look your DVM has a 200 VAC setting too large. Needs to be 2 VAC or less.

Even like today I got up and hauled out to the shop to see if I could finish the injector repair. Hit my wall by breaking off a terminal of the injector. Ok. Having been out of service for 1 full year, I'm allowed to make mistakes. Oh well, I'll still get it fixed just delayed repairing one injector. Yesterday I got the injectors out and needed a can of brake clean and scotch brite pads. I got to McCall wearing my split white and black wig and basic black makeup. This older lady in her 60s looked me over and started to chat about my appearance. She enjoyed that I had the spirit to do as I please and be colorful. I went into the store and came back out and she was still there and she started a new conversation with me again. It's to the point I'm getting more people telling me to keep going and don't stop. I've had several people who come up to me to give me a hug from different stores and places. It is very commonplace when I'm dressed as Titanium.

Formed edge

Interesting - not what I was expecting. I was expecting to see rail pressure below 4500 psi while cranking during the hard start. That would have made sense as the ECM would not have turned on the injectors at that low of pressure. Also, it would have coincided with high fuel return rate. So, if I am understanding correctly, you are getting fuel rail pressure above 4500 psi immediately, even with the FCA connected and the engine still won't start. So, the question for me is, why isn't the ECM telling the injectors to fire right away? This is where my lack of fully understanding the details of how a common rail fuel system works comes into play. If this were my truck, I think I would want to know what all has to be in place before the ECM will tell the injectors to fire. Example: could an engine rpm sensor cause the ECM to not fire injectors, or could the fuel pressure sensor cause the ECM not to fire injectors?, etc. - John

Yes sir you can. Just key on and click the switch through the different modes and report back the values seen.

Yup. Im still here plugging along slowly but still going forward.

We have pumps on the shelf. We also have seals. If that is a an option/ you can determine the part # you need. There is an exploded view picture and part #s here http://www.sparesbosch.ru/results_bosch.php?article=0460426114

Again here we go... Ugh! I started PT today and trying to strengthen my core. I've lost a lot of muscle mass and control over some areas of muscles that are weak. My PT doctor is working on getting more info on my limitations. As for today was an intro to how am I doing. Well not too good sadly, but it is fixable. Just in a few exercises I'm sore already and need to keep going and working on building my strength and movement. Almost a full year since my start which was December 17, 2023 today is December 11, 2024. Now to try and build back some to get back to a normal life.

Sadly. I would remove the injection pump and see about getting a rebuild kit and replace all the seals including the front seal too so the diesel fuel doesn't leak in the crankcase. Reman pumps are available from @dieselautopower . I would consider that being the governor spring and other internal parts do wear out. So before performing any repairs I would highly suggest removing the pump from the truck. That cover should have 4 Allen bolts holding it on. Be careful the Governor Spring is attached to the cover and could be replaced but be careful not to stretch the spring. Serioyusly I would just consider a reman'd pump at least then the pump is in good shape to keep running.