Mopar1973Man

Strange enough I pull it all apart and put it back together and sitting on my shelf in the shop for future needs.

They are constant load throwout bearings the slave rod will constantly keep pushing back against the throw out fork. So you going to need to replace the throw out bearing like it or not. All you have to is measure the fully extended length of the slave rod and then measure the distance from the bell housing to the fork and see that the slave rod will be pushing quite a bit on the throw out bearing.

Lock up controller usually supplied with the exhaust brake. Then you'll only get exhaust brake function in 3rd and 4th gear. There is a valve body mod that allows lock up in 2nd gear so you could use the exhaust brake in 2nd gear too.

What?! 10k miles for set of pads?! Holy Cow! Exhaust brake 185k on a set of pads. I could of cleared 200k but didn't want to push my luck. All high performance pads are is a brake pad with more metal in it to bite the rotor harder which in turn causes more rotor wear in the long run. So I bought the absolute cheapest brake pads from RockAuto.Com with the least amount of metal in them and still to this day don't touch my service brakes till under 20-25 MPH.

That why I suggest testing with a live data tool first to verify the IAT is actually damaged. Only about 1% of all the IAT actually fail. Even with my exhaust brake and all carbon/oiled up mine is still correct so the old wife's tale washing off the sensor isn't true. Also with my IAT now fooled solid at 143*F no codes and no MPG's issues either. The two big players in timing is ECT, IAT and Battery temp sensor. Yes. The battery temp sensor does play a role in it too.

First make sure all sublevels are turn up to 5. Hold the power switch for 3 seconds when you release the sublevel will be display with quick flashing LED's. Do this for all main levels. To return to the main level just click OFF and and back ON. Solid LEDS should be shown (main level). 1x5 2x5 3x5 4x5 5x5 Then select 5x5 and test drive again. There is a bug in the Comp software where if you set 4x1 and the 5x5 and select 5 level it will run doggy. But now correct 4x5 and 5x5 and select 5 level again it will roll coal with the best of them.

Have the batteries load tested to see where you are being plugged in isn't a good way to check the batteries but to be unplugged and check and see if the batteries hold up to loads without falling on there face. AC system is AC powered only so I would verify the AC power is getting to the unit and then verify the thermostat is triggering properly.

I would consider a exhaust brake well before throwing that kind of money at rotor and brakes. Wow! No problems here coming down 16% grade loaded. I bought the cheapest brake pads from RockAuto.Com for both axles $50 bucks. Still running OEM rotors. 229k miles total only done 1 brake job ever!

Like my trip I just done on Mother's Day to Ontario, OR I was up to 26 MPG (MoparMom as my witness) cruising around Ontario, OR and doing awesome at holding the number all day in Ontario, OR. Till I turn around and head for home and the winds kicked up and storms where moving in pulled me down to 23.5 MPG when I hit home. Then today really pulled it down crawling the mountain to the "Fire Chief's" house to take care of fire business then head to town and do a computer job. By the end of today and all the BS and crawling mountains roads I'm still barely 21 MPG. I typically get higher numbers in town than on the highway. I gain MPGs in town. I'm also very selective of where I drive I don't look for city streets with lots and lots of stop and go but stay on the rim of town as much as possible. I'm not common rail either but figure out how to gain advantage of the timing curve. (IAT modifier)

Like I said I'm going to have to check. http://jacobs-oil.com/

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view Give a clue. But I can tell you if the parts are damaged it would be stalling all the time. All parts are harden steel.

If I remember right the RWAL system on your truck has a bleeder as well look back by the rear wheel line and there should be a device tee'd out of the system this a RWAL dump device to dump pressure in a captive reservoir. Might look at that...

More so the CANBUS connector but for test purpose I would pull both CANBUS and wire tap.

Mobil I can most likely do. But all the other are not sold up here. (Castro, AMSOil, Schaeffers, etc.)

Please could you list these oil brand names down so I can see if I can get these oil locally?

Yes. When the timing is over advanced from * Cold Air - The colder the IAT temperature the more and more timing is advanced. * Cold Coolant - The colder the coolant temperature the more pronounced timing advancement. * Low to Zero Boost - Low to zero boost will advance the most. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature So with more boost pressure there is more retarding of timing. Yes. Wore out injectors with excessive low pop pressure will fire early causing injector rattle too.

One line is enough being the flow return is pretty fast.

Not pointed at you but showing a example of research for other members to make up there mind. That's all. But still I would like to see Bosch test more so than Cummins.

Exactly. Just keep flushing till the fluid is the same color going and coming out. SuperTech is Walmart brand power steering fluid.

Has anyone taken time to look at ratios? 8 Gallons of fuel x 128 = 1,024 Ounces Adding 1 ounce to 1,024 ounces of fuel (1,024:1 Ratio) Attachment is MSDS and links below are the different chemical used just to show you break down of products. You can look up the CAS numbers of each thing and dig deeper. http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB5938980.htm http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0436.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB7479115.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_111-76-2.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_95-63-6.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/ProdSupplierGWCB9895825_EN.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_1330-20-7.htm http://s07.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/corporate/trading-shipping/downloads/msds/in-country/netherlands-str/md-distillates-petroleum-hydrotreated-light-cas-64742-47-8---str---en.pdf http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_100-41-4.htm This is to teach everyone that you can do your own research on a product and deem if you want to use said product or what? But at least I show a way for you to break down all the products used in a additive so you can figure out if you want to use this product or not. 264-137ND-msds.pdf

Welcome to the family!

Run Supertech Power Steering fluid year round with temps as low as -25*F not issues with whine or steering. But I always flush the system out before winter and start winter with a fresh batch of power steering fluid that isn't all scorch out from summer heat.

Because there isn't any difference. 40 weight is 40 weight. The 5w and 15w are you cold weight characteristics. So you start-up characteristics changed a little bit but the full heated characteristics remained the same of 40 weight. You would have to change to 10w-30 or 5w-20 to see changes. It the second number you want to drop. But once again there is no one around me that sells a CI-4 or CJ-4 oil in any other weight than 15w-40 period. All the 10w-30 and 5w-20 is all "S" rated oils which are not designed for our engines.

There is a rebuild kit for it... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

True but what your seeing is things like Xylene that is added to the fuel for pour point depressant. This will evaporate off and still leave the petroleum product behind. Take a peek at today MSDS sheets for just plain old #2 diesel you'll be shock at what is added these days. What would be better yet is a product designed by Bosch for there own fuel systems. Even Dodge and Cummins to this day post weird information in concerns to Bosch fuel system but Bosch has there own standards. Might not be bad per say but I don't know of very many people that actually sit down with calculator and say "I pumped 22.493 Gallons that is 2,879.104 ounces of fuel and need to add in 7.19 ounces of additive for 400:1 ratio." Most take the bottle and pour in a huge gulp of it and guess. Then other fill the fuel filter up with straight product and start the truck even harsher yet. So is this over does a good thing or bad thing? Depends on the product and how much huh?