Mopar1973Man

Might be true that with higher HP number its possible the blow gets worse but still where do you draw the line in the sand saying this is too much and band-aiding the problem might or might not be the answer. I tend to say the racing crowd is a bit different being the truck goes from idle to WOT and stays there the entire time.

New Meadows, ID weather tower report -11*F and McCall, ID airport tower reports -9*F I'm showing +10*F as a starting temp of the day... Still down right cold.

That's where I differ from most I don't use 4WD very much. Even out here in the snow and frozen roads I typically leave it in 2WD. As for the CAD unit on the 96 it always engages but hangs up on release. Because the simple fact is 4WD will give you traction to climb a slick grade but 4WD will not keep you from sliding off a highway. So my 4WD is a "Ace up my sleeve" so when I need it I've got it but normally don't need it. So many vehicle around me that are strictly 2WD pickup, cars, utility trucks and fire trucks etc. They don't require 4WD for winter travel just a Smart Driver.Like suggested above the vacuum might be the cause of the hang up and not pulling the collar back to release?

Another version..."Honey I put a huge piece of wood in the stove and the door wouldn't shut right so I forced it and blew the glass out."(Oh shizzle moment in life to call 911)

Very cool thank you ISX for the addition to the 911 section I'm sure others will enjoy this.

Yeah right... I doubt that seriously. I will admit yes YabbaDoo is nice looking gal but I'm not exactly looking for relationship. So no disrespect to the females of the site but sorry I'm not exactly looking or even thinking that. But I'm proud to see females jumping on board and getting there hands dirty and maintaining their trucks. But as for the stove... It's not exactly like above but it would work for cooking the need be. I got to admit it does a excellent job of heating the main house. I've got one similar in the guest house and it got a flat top to cook on but since the stove is stuff in the fireplace its rather poor for cooking on but once again in a pinch you could if you had to. Both stoves are built here locally... Called... "Stove That Jack Built".

P0121 code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/150-p0121-apps-sensor-volts-do-not-agree-idle-validation-signal P0382 code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit As for the P0121 code you might just have to replace the APPS sensor with a Timbo's APPS and be done. But I would do the diagnostics first to verify its not a bad wire or other issues. P0382 is a grid heater relay that is either disconnected on the fender or the relay is bad internally.

Not always. Some cases where a single piston is damaged will not show any signs at all till high boost may two pistons? But yes you correct if you had all 6 with wore out rings you'd see more of it.But one or two cylinders might not be enough to create a blow at idle where at full boost now its excessive. A vacuum pump can only throw so much air into the system it can only flow so much. If you just cap it off completely and test run and still getting blowby your still looking at a compression test to see where you sit. Compression test and a leak down test let you test cylinder by cylinder the heath of all them without tearing down the engine. Yes it will require you pull all 6 injectors out but that's all. But then you can see the pressures of each cylinder and see whats up. If there is a low cylinder now you can do a leak down and see where the compression gases are going. So if you hooked up compressed air to a low cylinder to can look for the hissing air at the oil fill cap (bad rings / possibly a bad head gasket), radiator cap (blown head gasket), fuel tank (cracked head into the return rail), intake (bad intake valve) or exhaust (exhaust valve). So now you diagnosed everything and you would KNOW exactly what going on cylinder by cylinder. Now you can make a educated plan of what to do next. Rather than stumbling around in the dark guessing...

Well if I can get time between all the fire dept meetings and fire dept activities right now. I would look. But now I'm house sitting and running back and forth keeping there fire burning at a fires house so the place doesn't freeze up. Tomorrow I got to hold a class on how to "Install VP44 injection pumps" for a local shop because no but myself will do them. So maybe by next week or today if I'm not swamped. @AH64ID This is only a cheap 1500 Ram its not worth the price of delete kit nor a bunch of conversion. I don't think I can get much more than $2k for the truck way it stands. Now if I got the interior cleaned up and a paint job. Maybe...

Got up this morning and it was 65*F COLDER outside than in my house......... Not as bad... Still cold.

Thank you... I told you that I lived in thee middle of Nowhere Idaho... Looking back towards home which is down behind the second ridge in the distance.

Kind of like...

Ok... I'm more of the type to verify that nothing got damaged because remember you are highly modified and running higher boost. I look at this way testing is cheap.

Like I know being I just checked mine last night from the Fire Meeting. In the 2002 Dodge Cummins I got 193*F worth of coolant on a 12*F night and the temperature coming out the dash was 135-140*F depending on fan speed. Now if both heater hoses are hot then the heater core is plugged up and not exchanging heat. Just like a plugged up radiator both hoses will be hot because of a lack of heat exchange. Just because fluid flows through it doesn't mean its good. Just like a plugged radiator will still flow coolant too but most of the tube don't so the heat exchanging effect is poor hence why a truck will over heat. Same with my truck not both hoses are hot. One is hot the other is cooler because of good heat exchanging from the heater core. Both hoses hot = Plugged heat core.One hose hot and the other cooler = Good heater core exchanging heat with cold air.

Fixed. Heck even my little "Stove That Jack Built" is well in the 500 pound range. Even 2 men have trouble packing mine around. I could only imagine the shear weight of that stove and all the heavy steel in the doors. OMG! No longer in the pounds listing its in the Tons category.

Same here made it to a full high of 18*F so far... In New Meadows, ID proper I was total it was -5*F yesterday for a high. Heck last night in Riggins, ID I was barely 12-14*F last night according to the thermometer in the truck.

Ultimately piston and rings issues are the biggest reason for blow by issues. Compression test removes that factor by doing the test and knowing your pressures. Yes. A good tight engine will have 400-450 PSI of compression. Now any cylinder damage be it rings, piston, head or valves will show up as lower pressure on the test. Then a leak down test will tell you where the leak is going like in to the oil system, coolant, exhaust or maybe intake. Yes these thing can and do happen but still it would be a good thing to test the compression to rule out the possibility of any cylinder damage issues.

I've got the house in the mountains but lacking the stove like that.

Time to do a compression test to see where you stand.

Yes. Watch this video.

Good to hear she is at home.

How about from the manufacture? www.scangauge.com

You never going let me get away with it eh?

11 PSI is like saying Cummins engine needs a minimum of 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle and 30 PSI at 2K RPM's and you've got 11 PSI and 31 PSI. How long would you expect that engine to last? Same goes for the VP44 pump how long do you expect it to last? Also consider the accurancy of the gauge. What if the gauge is +/- 1 PSI accurate. So that could mean at worst it 10 PSI or 12 PSI. Why hang right at the breaking limits of specs when you can have some breathing room.