Mopar1973Man

Going with Jimmy idea of flexing. The piece I've got here is harden steel. I took out a scratch awl on my Leathermen and attempted to scratch the disc and can't. Can't mar it even. Roughly measuring the thickness of the disc the plastic is roughly 0.040 inches and the steel is 0.100 inches. This very very hard steel. Seriously doubt the flexing would be possible. Then the other problem if it did flex or move then the o-rings might not seal as well being the one on the shaft relies on the snap ring to hold the disk down and the outer o-ring just the bit of plastic to hold it for the outside.

Check this out! This is unbelievable...

Please do. I would love to post that up in the article database.

I would opt for the MG over the LE... http://www.alexisoil.com/sites/default/files/235101-chevron-delo-400-mg-15w-40-pds.pdf

It meets the grade HFRR wise at 128:1 ratio. Marginally at 200:1 ratio under bad conditions of supply fuel. But nothing officially from them. But at 520 HFRR standard for US fuel you can see why wear occurs.

Great. I love when there is some factual information. Now if we can get it for the older series say 24V and 12V...

Q: is it Bosch approved?

Let's say the Secret Squirrel hosting is all done right here on M73M.com. So you never know if Ed might ask some one to Beta test this product. Might be a good time to update your signatures and truck information. All I can say is I tossed another idea at Ed for another product just a few days ago. Fairly simple product too.

Nice to see easy fixes...

Yes this is true Xylene is a PPD (pour point depressant) which aids in preventing gelling. The amount added is what going to change the pour point of the diesel fuel. If you can find specs of fuel you find the Xylene content will go up as winter cold temps go down. Xylene is a paint thinner basically and not a very good lubricant. Mostly used as a cleaning solvent and pour point reduction.

By chance what size tires are you running too? Matter of fact it might be a good idea to fill in your signature so others can see what you got on your truck.

Uh... Yeah... It going to get worse if I get back to the weekend hiking. Right now its just too slick to be hiking on the weekends.

Nice Article. This is worth adding to the archive as well...

I know... But this is unseasonably cold for here. I know up there in MN its down right cold. I should know MoparMom grew up in your state.

Well to give you a clue of how cold its been here in Idaho I had about 8 cords in the shed seasoned and dry. As of tonight I've exactly 1.5 cords left and with the cold snap we'll be shovel loading the stoves for the next few days so I know that will vanish quickly. Thankfully enough I brought home extra wood and been splitting it when the weather was warmer and got it all stacked up under the tree so I'm now falling back on my reserve wood here really soon. Still got about 2 cord unsplit in the yard. As of Feb, 5 2014 we had a low of +13*F and high of +20*F at the house. As of Feb, 5 2014 New Meadows, ID reported a low -11*F and a high +14*F.

Hmmm... The information I've got is from 2009.

Like in Howes its got the Xylene in it as the PPD...

This why I typically suggest the compression test and pop testing of the injectors together. Because if your going to yank the injectors out to pop test you might as well test the cylinder health too by running the compression test too. Now you know the cylinder health and the injector health in one pass with two tests.

Pretty wild the amount of gelling issues people have been having. I would find a product that will reduce the pour point to meet your needs. But this should be handled by local fuel suppliers but once again its shocking how many rigs I've heard of gelling up. So check your local part store for what you got available. Then you might do a bit of research and get the MSDS sheets for each on and look and see how much solvents are in the product. Then you at least have a clue if you would need extra lube or not. Personally I don't like to mix products. But also I took the time to research all my local fuel suppliers and have a good relationship with all the store owners. So I know if they meet the standard or don't.

Problems still remains there isn't a diaphragm in the pump Iive got here on my shop bench which happens to be a 027 Rev VP44 pump. I've still got that piece of the distributor head laying on my desk and its a solid steel plate with a plastic back to hold the o-ring. I've been hunting around the internet and talking to people and still to this day no one can find a Bosch part number or a Bosch seal kit that contains this "diaphragm". There is no physical way for me to break this disc. Like I said its a solid steel ring. It not rubber like shown below. Once again this is a solid steel ring.

That's what I thought. Just use dowels to lift the tappets back up. I was thinking of others that do in-frame rebuilds. But yes I can see flipping the block over being the fastest way to deal with that issue.

Check the pedal rods above. You'll need a flashlight to see them. But look at the rods coming from the pedals to the device (clutch / brake rods)

Here is the computer layout...

Here the vid...

This is the hardest on any vehicle is to use it in-frequent. Like you admitted to using it in the fall year for hunting so I can bet the rotors are filled with mud and what not. Then if you use in the winter time for snow then your adding salt to the mix which absolutely kills the rotors in a quick hurry along with other metal parts. If it was me I would be washing the under body more often to prevent the standing of salt and mud on any parts. This is one of the reasons I've still got my factory OE rotor and brake parts yet (except brake pads).