Mopar1973Man

I'm like Will...

Remember the fueling station pump are never absolute accurate. They can be off a small amount in 5 gallons. I watch the testing done at my local station and how its done. So if you calibrate once that's fine when you got a chance to check that's fine too. I typically set mine 0.1 highier making the MPG's just a touch lower. This makes me also work hard to get high numbers but typically I'm right close to the mark +/- 0.2 Gallons.

Any true offroad user should not use any sump. All it would take is one stump, log, or rock to swipe the sump off the bottom of the tank and leave you stuck. Drawstraw is legal to use on the streets where it might be a thin legal line for a sump on the streets.

Not a back but a leg problem... But I did nominate him on the first TOTM but he never responded. Trying to call him. But just a voice mail box. I left a quick message to call me back and give a update...

What I do is gain my on/off trigger from the trailer relay. That leg becomes hot (+12V) in either parking light position or headlight position. So this triggers on the fog lamps anytime the headlight switch is in any ON position. As for the fog lamp socket that particular pin happens to be +12V when on low beam and 0 Volts on high beam so this provides toggle for hi/lo position fog lamps which follows most traffic laws of only having 4 lights lit while on the highway. So there is 2 headlights and 2 fog lamps which follow the dimmer switch and follow the headlight mode without adding more switches. If the headlight where last on hi beam and you switch to parking lamps then automatically the fog lamps drop to lo beam mode because of the fog lamp lead. The only added switch I placed in the system is to disable the fog lamps all together so you could have true just parking lamp mode.

That's my problem right now. I've been watching the LED craze for a while even for the RV interior lighting. But they are so expensive for small amount of return right now. Like right now if I was to rebuild my light system completely 4 new bulbs is $72 buck and 2 relays are $22 bucks. So for the cost of 1 LED light I can still build a sealed beam setup that is just as bright for the most part. I know LED's use way less power. Less load on the alternator/batteries. Some LED's are awesome bright. Just the price is way too high.

Neither the cold air intake or the intake elbow is going to do much for a daily driver. Like ISX has just found out for us that cold air intake are meaningless because after the turbo the intake air is roughly 300-400*F so cold air does nothing to aid this really. Now the intercooler is what does the magic and getting the boost charge down to outside temps again. But the intakes typically don't do much for a daily driver. Now if you full on racing yes I would say upgrade to gain that last 5 HP at 4,000 RPM's but for a nearly stock engine there isn't any gains to be had. Now if its a 3rd Gen then yes you would be smart because there intake is choked.

TFC? What is that by chance?But that avg is pretty good. Now to push it a bit more...

Ok... I do know.I've managed to contact him by phone awhile back he's with a personal injury that got him stuck at home plus he's killed his laptop. Last time I talked to him he's doing good but not really capable of walking to good yet.I'll see about contacting him again and get a update for you guys.

The reason I went with flood light (sealed beams) is because out here in Idaho they use a lot of gravel on the highway and then traveling dirt roads you always end up with a broken lens on your fog lights. So if you have fancy PIAA's or such in about a year or so you'll end up with one broken from a rock. Then short time the rest of the light is ruined. With the NAPA sealed beams no biggy. $18 buck pick up another and move on. So the LED technology might be great but hopefully the lens technology is better than glass lens because once you break those it game over and your hard earned money is down the drain.

My method of doing it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0TfquTPNX8

Next model year is going to have rubber gears next...

I would say the diesel fuel that sprayed all over must of got something wet connection wise or something else came loose and prevented the starter from turning.

If you know where to look... torrentz.eu/search?f=autocad

Knowing that I'll send them your way now for SGII... I typically send them back to ScanGauge.com or Autozone...

Once again it not about volume. Its about pressure stability. Like when I jump on a fire truck and hook up a 2 1/2 inch hose I put a nozzle on the end that might neck down to 1 1/2 inch internally. the reason for the larger hose is to keep pressure stability at the far end which its does even though the nozzle can't even consume the 2 1/2 inch line volume rate. Another example I've got my irrigation system. Starts at 8 inch line at the dam wall and necks down to 4" as it travels to the splitter manifold. Then its divided in 1" lines to 3 yards. But in my yard I've got a high water demand because of the pelton wheel. Since the line neck down to 1" and all the demand volume required I had to install pressure gauge so I could measure my losses to the 1" inch line. So from a static pressure I've got roughly 116-118 PSI with everything running pelton wheel and all sprinklers I can drop to about 20-22 PSI. The pelton wheel is a loss at that point and doesn't produce. In this example the demand volume is greater than the supply volume and so pressure stability is lost. So as you you can see larger lines give better pressure stability since the line volume out weighs the pump consumption volume so the pressure drop is minimized. 1/2" Line at 15 foot at 15 PSI can flow 570 GPH... I hardly doubt we could consume that... But the pressure is stable... 6mm stock lines without banjos can only flow 75 GPH with the same length and pressure. (Calculated flow rates using 3.0 cSt fuel)

Less demand volume. I've got more fueling mods than can demand more volume than your truck so of course I'll see a bit more pressure drop. (Edge Comp and RV275's)

Stodg has it covered for the most part in his link.:smart:The biggest thing is get off the interstates and slow down. When its possible to get 14 MPG just cruising along with my setup at 55 MPH... I know I drop down to 9-10 MPG at 65 MPH. Also be aware most ST (special trailer) tires are only rated fro 65 MPH so its best to slow down and get away from the redline of the tires anyways.

Just remember you can't (or shouldn't) use a module or a programmer against a Hotrod pump. The hotrod pump is already advanced in timing so it can over advance it. So keep that in mind if you think about buying one...

Heck to rub it in more I just got done waxing the truck. April 1st get to fire up the irrigation system for the property so I know spring is on the way...

Welcome to the family.

It is for heat and lubrication. The heat is the electronics that is the problem. The circuit board is heat sinked to the fuel side of the case. Here is the full paragraph... [h=2]Overflow Valve Operation[/h] Fuel volume from the fuel transfer (lift) pump will always provide more fuel than the fuel injection pump requires. The overflow valve (a check valve) is used to route excess fuel through the fuel return line and back to the fuel tank. Approximately 70% of supplied fuel is returned to the fuel tank. The valve opens at approximately 97 kPa (14 psi). If the check valve within the assembly is sticking open, fuel drainage of the Bosch VP44 injection pump could cause hard starting. If a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been stored for “P0168 decreased engine performance due to high injection pump fuel temperature”, the overflow valve may be stuck in closed position. Yes. Here is the valve... The Overflow valve... x10 mag of the lower bled hole.

3/8" line might be fine. But it still comes back to pressure stability... Kind of why fire fighter don't put out house fires with garden hoses but pull a 2 1/2" line. It's about reserve volume and pressure stability.

Done... Stock fuel pump with stock 6mm lines and 1/2" lines. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/137-vulcan-performance-big-line-kit [TABLE=align: center] [TR] [TD=class: moparnote, align: center]Running Mode[/TD] [TD=class: moparnote, align: center] Factory Lines[/TD] [TD=class: moparnote, width: 34%, align: center] Vulcan Performance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] Starter Bump[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 14.0 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 15.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] Idling[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 13.0 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 14.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] Cruise 65 MPH[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 10.0-11.0 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 12.5-13.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] WOT[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 7.5 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 12.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Back to the OP... I would be wondering how much stress the power steering pump is putting on the hub. I would consider looking into doing a PS flush and getting the fluid changed out as well.