Mopar1973Man

If there is a charging issue it affects both batteries. Most likely the brushes in the alternator were wore out.

Always tickled me to no end now that summer is here everyone worries about figuring out how to cool a VP44. Then some of us only have about 3-4 months of hot weather and the go back into the freezer again.

Here is a good site to research Linux Distro's. There is hundreds of different version of Linux out there. http://distrowatch.com/ Ubuntu is the easiest I know of for a newbie to try out. If you want you can reversre the VirtualBox and install it on your Windows Machine and do a Virtual Ubuntu if you wish. This will give you time to test drive Linux and what version you want without format hard drives. Oracle VirtualBox is pretty neat because it create a virtual hard drive as well. Like my create Windows install is a virtual 20GB drive virtual 1.5 GB RAM. Since Linux is a multi-desktop environment I can move windows to its own desktop and continue within Linux... At this point I can drag and drop windows or porgrams to any of the 4 desktops I wish. Or I can grab the middle mouse button and flip desktops and go back and forth between Windows or Linux. Just tell me that Windows 8 is better... Go on...

How about running two operation systems and having Windows Vista x64 with Ubuntu Linux 12.04? Well I've done it. I'm now capable of going back and forth between both operating system without rebooting! * Ubuntu Linux 12.04 x64 * Windows Vista x64 Ultimate running within Oracle VirtualBox. Now what I've learned about this is Windows is a pig when it comes to CPU power constantly pulling on the CPU and memory thankfully I've got the ability of throttling how much this virtual machine get for resources from the Linux. But I got to admit it cool to be able to use Windows for those odd ball programs that you can't find a Linux version. Also it allows me to still run IE browser for web site testing yet... Hey Rogan I'm really loving the Linux now...

Actually you got water or liquid in the plug of the WIF light... Use compressed air and blow it out then use a zip tie and plastic bag and cover it over and zip tie the plastic bag on.

Some say you can see the oil coming out the back of the turbo. The housing will be wet looking after like starting up driving easy and shutting down... But that's the best I can give...

Turbo seals are leaking... It would be pumping the oil into the exhaust pipe. As for 2 cycle oil no it will not leave a oily residue on the tip of the exhaust pipe because its completely consumed in the burn.Another thought... Are you having issues starting?

Hmmm... I was hoping was was AC noise. Dang! :banghead:As for head gasket leak if you has a small one it would build coolant pressure near instantly. Or have excessive blow by and oil loss... Unless its leaking between cylinders then the only way to see it would be a compression test.Also checking my lowest coolant temp as for coasting long distance down hill it will cool down to 184-186*F and sit till the EGT's rise again...I still say there is something wrong there with the sensor / wiring it should jump that fast. As for my truck it takes nearly 3 miles to go from 195*F to 205*F on a 7% grade.

Could you provide a bit more information on how you do this? Maybe some pictures, details,etc... Be nice to add this to the collection of information!

Rogan right. In the PDC box there is a fuse near the heavy red and black wires that has a fuse held by two phillips screws. Just remove the screw and take a ride and see if it calms down if it does settle down you now a candidate for the TQ Conv lock up thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues About 2 seconds as well...

Ryan after watching both videos I tend to believe you might be seeing noise of some sort the way the temp jumps up and down so rapidily. Mine just drifts back and forth 191-195*F...Would you be willing to pull the alternator fuse just for a wild idea test and see if it stabilizes???

Here we go with the video... NAPA 190*F thermostat... Fresh thermostat with every coolant change. http://youtu.be/IvTDLZ80Fnw

Wow! I always was told the clutch required a special tool to remove even the FSM shows it...

Also has to do with the ribbon cable that goes down inside the pump for speed sensor and fuel sensor... Really hard to extend a ribbon cable and shield it from noise and mechanical damage. Like today Riggins, ID was easy 100*F outside. Temperatures don't seem to bother the VP44 or me really. Kind of looking at it this way. Engine has a cooling system where the water moves around and the cylinders and head and returns to the radiator for cooling. The VP44 is similar because as long as the fuel pressure is 14-20 PSI the fuel continues to move pass the electronics and pull the heat from it. But now reduce your fuel pressure below 14 PSI it like taking the belt off the water pump. Eventually the VP44 will overheat (electronics).

Special puller is required to change a clutch as far as I know. As for testing it there is much that I know of for test other than replacement.

(Video coming! Give me a bit to process!)

Take a lazer temp gun and shoot the ECT sensor and the thermostat housing (block).The Ultra Gauge and Dash gauge will be no better than the ECM / ECT Sensor accuracy.

Remember the ECM controls the lift pump circuit. Then also remember there is no fuel pressure sensor on these trucks so there is no way for the ECM to see pressure. Rare but it does happen when you turn the key on and have the pump run a full 25 second prime cycle. Today was you day...I'm normally a stickler about keeping hydrated and fed.

You might have to test and see if the A/C clutch is actually seeing 12 volt signal. If it is and the clutch is not snapping down tight and twisting with the pulley then the clutch might be bad or the clutch electro-magnet might of failed.

Yes... I can watch my coolant temperature and no it doesn't jump up and down typically hangs right at 190-193*FNice and stable...

I can tell you the under hood temperature its between with the outside air temp (105*) is and the coolant temperature (190-195*) As for the VP44 as long as you pressure is 14-20 PSI then the VP44 temp will be the temp of the fuel more fuel in the tank the longer the pump stays cool.We made it 92*F here at the house.

I don't remove the latch but throw a rug or a rag over that thing. Yeah I know exactly what your talking about after awhile of laying across the hood latch your belly start to hurtin' and your knees are wore out from kneeling on the bumper.

Been ~$160 bucks for ScanGauge II for as long as I've known... http://www.scangauge.com/buy/buy-direct/

It was the left over weather tape I used on my topper... :lol:Cheap and it wasn't enough for the topper so I used the bits and pieces on the A/C...

Nitrogen would be a good choice. But I don't have a bottle hanging around the shop... So I got to use the next best thing.