Mopar1973Man

Doubt its a ECM... Ok now knowing its a relay system I guess you need to double check your connections on the relay and might try replacing the relay to see if the winding are damaged why its drawing more or less current and tossing the code. I highly highly doubt the ECM is the problem but a bad relay or weak connection could be. The relay systems on both AirDog and FASS are extremely safe for the ECM being the pump load is no longer place on the ECM. It just relay...

Since my RV has a TV stand build in and I just happen to have a older 13" TV I could toss in the RV. Why not I picked up a little RCA Analog to Digital Converter for the TV on my last trip and figure I'd give it a shot. Camped out in Emmett, ID I cranked up the antenna and flipped on the booster (Winegard). Hooked up the RCA D to A converter and fired up the TV. Wow! Works awesome. :woot:I found that if you flip over to menu and show the signal strength you can tune your antenna for greatest signal strength. Then go back through your channel search again and pickup any missing channels. Not bad for $50 bucks at WalMart and being in Emmett, ID and getting 8 channels... :smart:I'm going to work on getting the entertainment area and tweaked in for where ever we go... So if there is TV signal so we can watch it... If not then have the DVD player rigged up so we can enjoy either way... It's alway nice to come back home and relax...

Very interesting wood gas stove... Designed very well...

They start binding when brake fluid grows on the piston causing the binding problem. Might help with MPG's too... Sorry I wasn't around to tell you but just pull the caliper apart and clean it up. Brake clean and Scotchbrite pad will clean them up nicely...

Sorry to hear about your Aunt having problems... But I'm glad to hear your truck is doing better! One of the better ways to clean injectors... I just got back from dragging around the Jayco... I pulled two grades and seen a nice toasty 1,200*F on both... Cook'em Clean!

Ok gang... Problem solved... Not a front end issue at all it was the driver side front fender the whole time. Ever since I repaired the front fender using a few washers and a few fresh bolts I've not had a single problem or a pop since...

Thing is if he's trying to use it as a fuel its going to fail. But if he's using is as a fuel lubricant it going to do fine... The problem is no matter how much you want to cheat the fuel bill when you start mixing oil in the fuel you retard the ignition point (lower cetane). Not to mention when you increase above 5% the cSt of the fuel becomes too thick for the injectors to spray properly so a loss in MPGs is noted too. Remember diesel fuel is 1-5 cSt and 2 cycle oil can vary from 80-120 cSt... Then if the oil has too much ash in it then the great white deposits start to grow and foul the injectors and the piston. Thien if the fuel temp gets to low you take the risk of injection pump damage from trying to pump fuel that is too thick. Like I said if used for a fuel lubricant is fine but cheating the system and using for a fuel you'll take on damage.

Well I was right about the diagnosis but as for location that a bit tough... But like I was trained for Computer tech support you want to look back over any modification that the owner last did. It might provide a clue. Even I tend forget about my own advise at times... :banghead:

Possibly a gear case cover is needing sealing again (loose bolts). Most like your right on th turbo return line... :thumbup2:Mine is getting a bit wet with oil around the front too...

No you got a lift pump that is drawing too many amp or not drawing enough amps. In other words there is a problem internally in the lift pump that is causing to draw more amps than normal (damage bearings?) and throwing this code.

Well after spending over an hour laying on my back with a prybar I never could find anything loose or broken. So I proceeded to fix the torn fender on the driver side. So far for the last two outing its not made any noise...

Both the Goldwing and the Rancher both are water cooled... Both have wet clutches... But share the lube oil in the transmission... The difference is the Goldwing has bigger oil filter than the Rancher and holds 1 extra quart.What's truely sad is the tiny oil filter on the Rancher is the same price as my oil filter for the Cummins...

Closing in on 3K miles and 300 hours.I was also using 15w-40 Chevron Delo for quite awhile then switched over to 10w-30 now.

Looking at that pic... That looks like the timing advance cover on the VP44...

Just setup up the engine size (5.9L), fuel tank size (34 or 35 Gallon), Fuel Type is (Diesela), Fuel Cutoff is (0)...Now calibrate both the speed to a GPS and the fueling calibration above.

Well I'm not most young people... But I do ride it hard now and then. But still and all the Goldwing is a wet clutch too and ridden hard as well up dirt road with high temps and the whole bit and change oil every 6K...

Well I'm closer to getting to the finish line... I finally figured out the printer driver issues. Now have both computers hooked up on one printer. As for the solution to the printer... http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?p=11781593#post11781593 So now I'm moving forward and getting software and getting thing setup more...

Ahhh... There's your restriction... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

He's (Relentless70) got the sheet other than I can say he got 224/571 out of 600K miled 160 HP engine... :thumbup2:I was trying to vid record the computer and the results but the raster problem killed the video... :banghead:

Ahh... Waterhammer... You might consider a mechanical gauge. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects

Russ is right... Like I'm running a ScanGauge II and dead on... I'm capable of calibrating for tire size and fueling changes where the overhead computer is off once you change tires or fueling mods... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

Here is Relentless70's Dyno Run...

No... You need to look at the wheel studs for clips. There will be round clips holding the rotor in place. Now when you remove them you'll most likely distroy the clips. Then back off the E-brakes shoes by turning the starwheel towards the axle. Might have to rap on the rotor to free it but...

Mine I idle @ 19 PSI and WOT @ 17 PSI... 13 PSI is low...

Build like Old School Pureflow Brackets...