Mopar1973Man

Yeah I get it. When you get caught up let us know.

Pretty simple. When your ready pull the steering box return and route to waste container. Now turn the wheel lock to lock it will self pump the fluid through. It does help to have the front axle off the ground.

When I last talked to him he was dealing with COVID. So I'm being patient for him to get caught up.

Dark material could be band or clutch material. Still in all I would still give Jon a call.

Much less issues with... Track bar Ball joints Tie rod ends Drag link Steering box Power steering pump Brakes Wheel bearings Wheel joints The list is long.

Me personally I would never bother to buy anything new in the current times. Prices are high as heck. Just the monthly payment will be like a house loan. It was bad enough back in 2002 when I bought my truck new for $32k or so. I had a fairly large monthly payment. Today I would buy a used truck that was in fair condition and rebuild what I would have to and keep going. Like Thor (2006 Dodge) its purchase as a abandon vehicle and I've been repairing as needed and using for my shop truck.

I don't have the shut down chirp but I have a power chirp. about every 50k to 60k the belt will chirp while under power. But looking at the new vs old belt the pulleys more or less burn the grooves out and gets too wide and no longer grips the pulley. But totally silent on shut down never makes any noise.

Talk to @Dynamic about this hes a excellent transmission rebuilder. He can set you up for parts and info just as much.

Nope. I just stayed home and did nothing but house cleaning and packing for the work week.

0. Stock ECM 1. Valet mode 2. Stock fuel with timing 3. CANBus Fuel and timing 4 and up splits up the wire tap levels. Like I'm set for 7 levels Amount of wire tap. 4. 25% 5. 50% 6. 75% 7. 100% Data logging can occur on any level. No clues for pumps being it only shows what the ECM is commanding not what the actual timing is. Even when my last VP44 failed it showed normal timing even though the timing was stuck full advanced and P0216 code.

Yeah when I did the math on his other tires his final ratio was 3.38:1. Being an Auto Trans is 0.68 in top gear that dropped him way too low in the RPM's at highway speeds. @Sycostang67What is your RPM at 65 MPH? Most likely I'm figuring that its going to be like 1,900 roughly?

Halloween is tonight... Oh my...

Like last one I got from NAPA was a 4 Seasons radiator which is a good quality.

Sounds like you got a fairly low mileage engine yet. 238k miles to the moon, 476k miles to the moon and back... I'm at 436k just another 40k miles and I've gone to the moon and back. Common oil leak spots Vacuum pump seals Front crank seal Gear case either front cover or case to block gasket Tappet cover gasket Rear main seal All these leaks are fairly simple to deal with. Shouldn't these engine are good for 1 MILLION MILES. Your engine is low in the mileage game. I'm at 436k miles and making roughly 500 HP. Best yet broke my own high mark and topped out at 28.04 MPG. (263 miles / 9.379 gallons = 28.04 MPG) Quadzilla Adrenaline (My Eco Tune) +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x0.010) popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid turbo 4" Exhaust straight piped AirDog 165 GPH fuel pump Stock SO VP44

Rule of thumb... For every 1 pound of rotational mass removed is like 8 pounds off the frame.

The problem is as you use a leveling kit you are altering two things. Number one the caster will turn more positive, this some thing can be adjusted on stock control arm and sometimes you need adjustable control arms to get the caster angle correct. Caster is what make the steering to self center. Then the second thing as the axle is swung downwards from the lift kit then the OE track bar is fixed length so now the axle is pulled toward the passenger side some and fouls the thrust angle which will no longer be straight. To correct this you would need a adjustable track bar. I've got this same problem on my 2006 Dodge Ram and plan on pulling the 2 inch lift kit out next to get the alignment fixed on that truck. I've already returned back to 265/70 R17 wheels and tires.

I've got my drill bit and tap ziptied together for doing the EGT probes. That's the other thing I learned I know AH64ID was saying my original idea of having the probe at the top in the fill plug wasn't accurate but when I opened the fill plug and reached in with a long probe digital thermometer I found it the most heat near the gears. So this why coolers appear to be cooling because the sensor is the farthest away from the heat source and being the FASS cooler head will cool rapidly it will show much cooler vs near the gears. Kind of like measure bath tub water at the far end of the tub it will be much cooler too. Typically I'm 160F or less for trans temps through the year. The only time I see high trans temps is slow travel up grades or down grades. There is not enough wind to cool. The other help is heat shield the exhaust pipe and that could drop 20 to 30 degrees not having the exhaust heat radiating towards the passenger side of the transmission.

Call me I just got done helping another gent tweak my economy tune. His case hes following my design but had a Alison Trans so it adding a bit of weirdness being the final ratio is quite a bit taller. I used the trans temp sensor for the engine oil for tuning reasons. I've got a standalone gauge for my manual trans. The only problem with FASS coolers the sensor placement make it seem cooler but the actual gear temp is higher. Being the sensor is so far away from the gears. With mine in the driver side PTO cover and near the PTO gear it much more accurate temp.

Got a call to his phone but no answer and left a quick message. I should hear back sometime.

Like myself I used all NAPA parts no issues. Tie rod, track bar and drag link. I used cheap ball joints off of RockAuto. Biggest thing that makes these parts last is not running oversized tires and/or lift kits.

No. Being ive got more pounds per square inch so it push down to the asphalt quite well. The dually and wide tire truck tend to spin easy because of flotation. They have less pounds per square inch of tire face. Another secret I up shift (manual) early keeping the torque low where a auto wants to run higher RPMs making it easier to spin. Kind of like walking into deep snow your foot will go to the bottom, now throw on snowshoes your spreading your weight allowing you to walk on top of the snow. Dually and wide tires are like running snowshoes and floating on top.

I would suggest for timing... 13, 17.5, 22, and 26.5 - this is good for manual trans. Fuel wise build a default ramp within the 0 to 5 PSI that is smoke free. Then a range of 100% stock this should be your normal driving range. Then ramp up you tail to 150%

1989 to 2002 is power steering fluid. This is the old school sagnaw steering box. 2003 and up is ATF+4 fluid being its a Ford steering box and hydrobooster. I've been using NAPA power steering fluid. (Non-synthetic). Change fluid every 30k. Nothing against Blue Top or Ryan but yeah I've had a few leaks that he's handled. Once on the output seal and once on the input seal. As for box performance it's nice and tight and steers better than stock OEM. Again I've got no leveling kits, undersized tires (245/75 R16). So front end steering and suspension has been stellar. Being I'm setup this way I can run a quick ratio. https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/2869-4-94-02-Dodge-Ram-1500-2500-3500-2X4-4X4-181-_p_39.html

I do all the P/S pump replacement from under the truck. I don't even mess with any air plumbing not required to remove any. I'm using Blue Top Steering quick ratio box and a NAPA power steering pump. There is a requirement for quick ratio. You must use 31 inch tire or smaller. Larger tire place too much stress on a quick ratio box. If you going larger on tires use a standard ratio steering box.

Little Red had the 215/85 R16s and did really good in a foot of snow. Even gave small boost in MPG being they were slightly lighter and also a 30 inch tire. Even on a V8 5.9L gasser it works really good.