Mopar1973Man

Like on my truck the more I watch the IAT temps the colder the tem pgets to about 60*F then it seem to stop. Like right now my best MPG for going to the store and a fire meeting is like 14-15 MPG... Driving easy because of snow and icy roads 40-55 MPH tops. Then the added load of using my 265/75 R16 Cooper STTs which are a extra 20 pounds per tire. Then cold air is denser so more drag on the vehicle. It just goes on and on... Let me get the vid camera out and do a short run with you guys...

I've been using 15w-40 all the way down to -20*F no issues here... I just allow it to warm up to 100*F worth of coolant before driving...

Wow made 21! I remember those day long ago... But Happy Birthday to ya... And many more!

Central Timer under the dash runs the wiper delay... There is a relay or something inside that module... At least on my Mom's 96 I here it click every time.

Yeap...

Sorry there is a few people that disagree with this topic so I'm closing this thread...

Just another fruit loop...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/vulcan/vulcan.htm

Umm... learn curve for Edge Comp boxes... The quick answer is 1x1 is going to give you the least boost of MPG over 5x5 will give you the most... You main level is how much timing curve you going to get with the maximum amount of fuel. So for the most timing you need the main level set to 5. So 1 being the least amount of timing and 5 being the most. Now as for sub level... Sublevel is how fast you get to full fuel and timing in relationship to boost. 1. 33% of stock fuel and timing till 20 PSI 2. 50% of stock fuel and timing till 15 PSI 3. 67% of stock fuel and timing till 10 PSI 4. Some extra fuel and timing at 0 PSI 5. Full fuel and timing at 0 PSI So if you looking for the most amount of timing keep it on 5x5 and use a light foot... Another tip is as the boost rises above 5 PSI the timing starts to retard. This princepal is from the autoignition temperature. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature The autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will ignite decreases as the pressure increases (Boost pressure) or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture. So to keep timing correct the VP44 is going to retard slighly to keep from over advancing the timing... Take notice the timing it more advanced at low boost pressures compared to high boost. So running the Edge Comp on 5x5 with a light foot and low boost pressures you can increase that stock table higher...

Yeap... Phyiscal damage has a way of doing that...

The source of the water hammer is coming from the the VP44 so closer you get to the VP44 the stronger the pulses get. If I could get the time and extra fund I want to move back to the stock filter can instead of middle of the line...

Stock manifold is find for most everything... But if you out drag racing and looking to gain that extra few tenths then I might suggest a 3 piece manifold.

I know I'm a bit behind on doing my fuel logs but here is the price history here in Idaho...

I've come across several bad caps missing the spring on the vacuum valve of the cap. As you would hold the cap in normally mounted position the valve would hang down and not close causing the radiator not to hold pressure. I've seen where upper rubber seals in the cap start to get little crakcs in them causing air to leak in. Worse yet seen radiator cap missing them out right.. Damaged radiator necks it possible cracked, deformed, or just damaged it will not seal correctly and draw from the bottle. How is the hose to the bottle is the hose damaged? Is the bottle damaged on the draw tube if its it will spit coolant into the bottle be never draw it back up... See this one too...

From the above link Hmmm... Maybe you should correct the noise issues than trying to cover it. Being the alternator noise is caused from bad diode(s) and APPS sensor noise cause from bad grounds... I still say most trucks ran for over 8-10 years without a filter and now all of a sudden need one... something is broken and you covering it up...

Got you all beat for Idaho... New Meadows - $3.599McCall - $3.639Lake Fork - $3.719Donnelly - $.3559Riggins - $3.589 Don't matter where I go its expensive.. Freighted from Salt Lake City, UT...

:banghead: JL... I feel for you man... I thought for sure the head and everything was right and now back to square one... I would drive the piss out of it till it dies...

Parking brake or E brake is what you set... The service brake is the pedal you push to stop the vehicle from rolling... I've the got the same setup...

I've also done the droop method to add a leveling kit to a 3rd Gen... But it would fo been easy to change a set of springs... Just take you time support the vehicle well before you start with the axle. Then also keep a jack under the axle to raise or lower as you disassemble/reassemble.

Yeah remember as your stand in front of the truck the fan loosens towards the driver side. Thanks Terry for reminding me...

The 71mm wrench goes on the fan pulley and the other one goes on the fun clutch... Hang on I'll go get mine from the shop and shop pics... Goes on the bolt heads of the pulley... Thanks to JL Welding I got a set of fan wrenches...

Here a little reading material... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

None that I found... I've ran it nearly 100K miles (actual 90K o far). [*]Will not plug filters (2-3 micron) [*]Will not foul injectors with soot. After 70K+ miles of 2 cycle oil. After burn WEO/WMO (Ash deposits) You be the judge... As you can see the 2 cycle oil is a safe additive to use in your fuel where WEO/WMO, WVO, ATF contain ash and will build up on your injectors. Where 2 cycle oil is ashless and will not damage you fuel system...

Pretty simple... Replace the fan resistor on the passenger side and replace the fuel sender... No codes needed to be checked...

Good point... Caj has a lot of miles on that TQ Conv...