Mopar1973Man

Unless your missing body plug in the floor or walls...

Very valid point... I'll admit that I eat my my truck seen every where I go is long distance. But Normally I do vacuum and wash the truck once a week if the weather allows for it. In the time I've been working on vehicle in Idaho (21 years) I've seen a few rigs (no names) that are rather gross on the interior and the parents allow the kids to eat and make a huge mess. Strangely enough that vehicle last I knew was starting to have mice problems...

I agree with Dorkweed... Just getting back to the basics there is a over fueling and lack of air issue occuring.

I've got a old school Vulcan big line kit in between the stock fuel filter and the VP44. In that line is a push loc tee with a 1/8" NPT test port. Then the rest comes out... Elbow to the needle valve the the brass tee with the fuel pressure gauge line and low pressure switch. Needle valve is required for both electric or mechanical gauge without a isolator. The isolator becomes a damping device in its self trying to translate diesel fuel pressure into anti-freeze pressure. Typical no on complains about buzzing noises while using a isolator... It will be very evident when the needle valve is too open the the gauge will buzz in the cab. The Polyon line is really cheap and you can buy 10 feet of that for less than 6 bucks at a NAPA. Just remember to get new farrules... As for the needle valve ...

Basically all you need to do is test each wire from APPS plug to the ECM plug for zero ohm from one point to the other (should show 0 ohms). Then test again testing for ohms between each wire and ground (should show infinite ohms). If your see flow at this point start looking for harness that has been rubbing the block or sharp edge.

Yeah don't we wish we could break out the old school timing light hook it up to #1 injector line and see timing... (Seriously) It would be nice to know exactly that information...

As afar as experience of this yes I have on a old 2 1/2 ton military truck. Same problem in 5th gear. Let off the throttle and the stick would pop out of gear so the passenger would lean on the stick and hold it into gear... As for the fix there is something broke/wore out internally...

Just for fun this morning I darted out to the shop and found a 50K Ohm pot and hooked it up...It ranges from 13*F to 292*F (0 Ohm also P0112 throw with CEL) Problem its not user friendly at all... Below 50*F the adjust is easy to hit. But not above 50*F the slighest movement jumps like 50*F... But it allowed me with some steady hands to adjust to 101*F for now. So the rheostat idea works but its not user friendly by no mean while driving.

Cold IAT Temps? Like in really cold weather (< 0*F) I've always had a steam trail...

You could but I'm trying to find a solid form of the number... Being I've got buckets of resistors I can just swap them out... Since everything is under the hood any how...

I've got a set of ultrasonic boxes with 3 levels or audio... Total Ultrasonic you can't here, Low which includes lower freq humans can hear, and LOUD which amps up the low and ultrasonic for long distance coverage. So far there has been nothing in the 2 vehicles. mice can't stand the loud random noises and can't get any sleep so they move on... Don't get me wrong I'll find a turd now and then on the floor or somewhere but they are NOT building nest or living in the vehicles. Before I used to find big piles of shred seat foam, etc. Then big piles of seed, etc... Don't happen now... As for the box I'm using it no longer produced...

For long term stoarge for like RV's I'm hearing that mothballs will keep them out too... Just make sure you put the mothballs in a dish or poreous container. The odor is suppose to be enough to keep mice out... Matter of fact I need to pick up box of them for the other rigs sitting around the yard...

DobieNut, run over and grab the wiring diagram and do a bit of testing... Since the all the newer Dodge's are negative switched all it takes is a pinched wire and the lights will stay on. It is possible for the daytime module to create some hell... /downloads.php?do=file&id=128">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=128

Here is what the valve assembly looks like... Nice how a 2002 Dodge doesn't have this goofy module any longer...

The only thing I know that causes .... If flashing its a parking brake issue. The pedal is not coming all the way back up... If solid you got a hydraulic issues or ABS issue usually with the present too... If the ABS light is also present you got to check your speed sensors... This code will not reset with disconnecting the batteries you must drive the vehicle to reset. More here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm

As for the dozer its not legal to operate in a National Forest... But my Cummins Skidder is... Well the point I was try to get at is that Dodge produced a problem of the angle... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/tsb-09-002-02.htm So You must be aware of anytime the vehicle is operated at steep angles it will attempt to push oil out that vent. Hence why my design was created as I travel the US natoinal forest collecting firewood I would travel up and down some seriously steep hill sides. At any rate if your not careful you can pump oil out. My truck is not a pavement queen... The only pavement here in my area is the US95 highway in front of the house everything else is dirt roads.

Welcome to the site...

You might be able to just order a wastegate motor for it... I wouldn't go for the Banks Bighead becaue you not building big boost number and not having a problem with the wategate blowing open... so just replace the stock wastegate motor and save your nickles for a good mod...

Any kind of catch can I could fill up in the summer time doing firewood hauling... I wish I has pics of last years haul because it required 3 grown men to stand on the side bars to keep the truck up right as I backed into the hole to load up and when I pulled back with a load on my back. I've exceed 20* angle many of times... Mostly forward to back but I try like hell not to get to extreme on the left to right angle.

Well after doing a long haul today to Boise, ID and back home in roughly 32-35*F weather slightly rainy but road condition was good but the fog was harsh at times... But my high mark for the trip is right at 20 MPG period... So now I need to change up the resistor and go down towards 100*F because I'm sure now that 132*F (2.7K ohm) is too high... It does yeild better MPG's over the IAT sensor but now I got to tune it in more...

Wow! Awesome pic there Rogan...