Mopar1973Man

Nothing against you WhiteLightning... But that right there is what kills most transmission in the diesel realm this includes Fords and Chevy's... I watch hours of videos where transmission shops shake there head at the owners putting over sized tires on to correct a gear ratio problem (usually 4.11:1 ratio) and what happen is it increases the ability to hold torque (no slippage of the tires). So the the next weak point will be the transmission. Majority of all transmission failure is cause from oversize tires being added. Like now with my truck its really easy to spin the tires that great that mean less damage to the trans and clutch for me... Now another one to look at. Take your stock tire and weigh it. Now take a a oversize tire and weigh it. You'll find like I did going from 265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16 I lost over 20 pounds of rotational mass from each tire for a total of 80 pounds reduction gaining MPG's of about 1-2 MPG. Now take your taller tire and look at the amount of torque it will require to twist it. Place a tire/rim on the ground standing up and shaft in the middle (no crank). Now try twisting the shaft with you bare hands. Now take a small tire and do the same thing and you'll find the smaller tire requires way less effort to move. Really if you want to correct the ratio problem correctly I would change gears out of the diffs... But really 4.10 gears should be excellent for towing. CajFlynn is running 3.73 gears and got the best of both worlds towing those massive boats... Much heavier that a normal travel trailer...

Like we got a nother test of 2 cycle oil at 1280:1 ratio and after re-doing the math it turns out that 128:1 ratio it roughly 50 HFRR score some I'm tickled to death with 2 cycle oil.

What I've found on a few the sock of the heater or the actual plug build up some oxidation and get a hot spot that will burn the cord. So like mine would make the plug so warm the plastic was doughy. So I pull the pull and took some light sand paper and clean the pins of the plug and hooked it back up and it nice and cool. As for the Geno's Heaters jump on them! That a excellent price. Being the last time I bought a heat element for a Dodge at NAPA was ~$120 excluding the cord...

Electronics have a few thing... [*]RPM Tone ring [*]Fuel Solenoid [*]Timing Solenoid Once again I'm not 100% sure of this but like several articles about people removing the electronics to repair a blown chip inside by soldiering in a new one. But if change the electronics you had to re-calibrate it for TDC, and the 2 solenoids so the pump behaved properly. I think mechanically they are all the same inside but once again ont 100% sure... Man how I wish I could get my hand on a Bosch VP44 rebuild book.

Like ISX would say, "You don't count!"

Correct...

Right on... Adding to the diesel family... Gotta see pics...

Pull the knee bolster out and the switch is right there near the pedal arm...

When CajFlynn clears 900K+ miles on normal petroleum oil it makes you wonder...

Well that won't work from what I know of this subject... When the electronics fail and get replaced that's when you get into trouble. Because now you got to calibrate the eletronics to the mechanical part hence getting the right key for the shaft...

You stole my water jug out of the back of my truck...

I'm thankful it not that cold here in Idaho... Maybe -20*F... But not -40*F...

Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

Well it always best to upgrade the weak links before adding power to the truck... What really got me scratchin' my head is the fact you got 4.10 gears and it should pull like no ones business and easy. I've haul backhoes, pickups on flatbed trailers, firewood, and always been able to pull at least 55 MPH without much issues...

Yeah I know what you mean... This why I suggest not adding more anti-gel unless you actually have a gelling issues... Like my local Cenex pumps in a unknown amount of this to the fuel tanks. But they might have 12-20 barrel behind the store... Since Xylene is a poor lubricant I tend to keep a watchful eye on the lubricity more so than the gelling issues... Xylene explained... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene

Now that I've seen that I could make my own for less...

Best suggestion is pick up a bottle of 911 (red bottle) keep it in the the truck for when it does gel then you add it to the fuel but as for something to add to the fuel all winter long I would just continue with a good fuel lubricant.

Caj's is a towing fool if he's capable of passing 900K miles and head to the 1 MIL mark hauling boats he must be doing something right...

Heck with my RV275's, Edge Comp on 5x5, straight pipe ex, BHAF, and HX35 I can tag the 1,400*F easy... 100 HP injectors are going to be extremely hard to control... If you capable of controlling every power level up to 5x5 then I'd say go up in injector size... Remember Edge you can turn down to control EGT temps. But injectors once there install you cannot turn them down all you can do is slow down...

Good suggestion... Like myself I still got my stock sticks...

Welcome to the site... It was my design to try and aim for the common folks more. Enjoy...

Give the homey feel doesn't it??? Snows a blowing outside and the warm fire inside perfect way to spend T Day...

The only way to figure out exactly which sensor is failed is a nice trip to a Dodge Dealer ot a shop that has a ABS scantool that can see the speed sensors... That's the only way I know how...

Coments in blue.

No kidding... You going to need a lot of mayo to moisten that meat back up for a sandwich...