Mopar1973Man

PM Sent.

Timbo is a member of the site too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/member.php/10225-Timbo Send him a PM...

I got mine at a local NAPA store...

I'm no dummy...

Yeah the grid heater solenoid on the fender has most likely got a wire pull off or has failed... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/grid-heater/grid-heater.htm As for the P0234 it saying the MAP sensor is working fine but the wastegate is jammed close and not operating properly. P0236 is saying the wastegate was jammed shut and the boost stayed too high too long for typical function. But there is 2 conditions here that might be occuring... a. The MAP sensor failed within specs. In other words the boost value is stuck at a high number and no longer changing. This can bee seen with a live dataa tool like ScanGauge II. b. Your wastegate is physically jammed and needs to be delt with. Then you been driving with a heavy foot and/or pulling heavy trailers.

Here is my cheapo WalMart Specials... $30 bucks... I'm still using me stock floor mats from the dealer...

Yeah... They all go to the Riggins to go around the one and only square block in Riggins... Takes only 1 hour...

Mine failed at 177K miles. I think a lot of that has to do with the fact of starting and stopping alot on the mountain doing firewood. So you might move the truck 6-7 times during loading process. I never leave the engine run while sitting on a steep slope. I typical shut it down lock the parking brake and grab 1st gear. As for my grimey brushes I got that cured too... It was #5 injectors leaking on the manifold very little (weeping more like it) but it was enough to make it to the starter and make a mess.

I live in a non-trick or treat area...

No idea... Subscribed... I need a new key anyways...

So with only a 5-10*F jump I'm sure the intercooler and deal with that...

Thanks for the great conversation! I got another thread started to see if I can pull information for ya... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2908-ECM-rebuilder-shop-information-needed!!!?p=21984#post21984

Hey Gang... I've got a member here that is looking for information on ECM shops/rebuilders that could possibly test and repair a ECM. I'm sure there was a few threads out here but I'm looking for currently good shops... Yeah I know there is a few of "Bad" shops too. Lets here it guys... Oh... If you want you can post you information to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2897-Help-911-Diesel-Down?p=21913#post21913

Ok... Try removing the box and the problem disappears right? Then that points to a issues with the phyiscal electronics of the box... (Most likely). Or maybe a bad connection somewhere?

I talk to a gent in New Meadows that rebuild trans... I explain the problem to him and he's pointing the finger at the torque converter which has excessive drag or the lockup clutch is binding up and not releasing properly.

Bulb heat? Are the bulbs getting to hot and failing? That's the problem I got with my 100w bulbs on the bottom of the bumper. According to NAPA they have had a issues with mine about the bulb getting to hot in the rubber buckets and blowing the filaments. Usually notice this by a burn mark on the reflector. So hopefully it will give a clue...

That's the thing if it was a short it would blow fuses instantly regardless of the amp rating... The fact he's getting a short span of life then pop tells me there is something draging the pump motor down. Maybe bearings?

You need pecan oil... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2072-Diesel-fuel-vs.-pecan?highlight=pecan

Word to the wise the safest place it to be standing in the black... It can't burn twice...

That issue is normally cause from low fuel pressure... At this point the flow past the electronics is reduced and the cooling factor is reduced hence when you go to WOT operation and the electronics really need to stay cool the fuel pressure typically falls and the cooling stops. Being the fuel is the only way to cool the eletronics you need to keep it flowing past the electronics. So if the overflow valve starts closing at 14 PSI and should be completely closed by 10 PSI then I highly suggest you never let the fuel pressure fall below 15 PSI on a WOT...

True... But what I'm getting at is that most people set everything up too low.

The only reason why I got rid of mine is because of the plastic box... On mine I started to do inspection of the cover lid and finding dust trails where the plastic started to deform and allow dust and dirt to sneak past the filter. The only way I found to stop that was to grease the rubber lip of the air filter. Now this is plain messy. So since I bought my first BHAF 7 years ago and put 126K miles on it... I'm still waiting for the filter minder to move I've tested the filter minder a number of times and it works fine... But the filter just never wants to plug up. So buying a $47 BHAF from Vulcan Performance is the best money I ever spent on a Air Filter.

Dang... That is nice... Elk meat...

All I can say is check all your wiring and grounds... The ABS module on the older truck is right on top of the trans hump. But becareful and disconnect the batteries for at least 15 minutes before messing with any connector. This will prevent a accidential discharge of the ABS system.

Just not fond of the addon's... Edge Comp and Edge Juice with Attitude are exactly the same software and performance. Just that the juice has all the extra toys that most people mis-adjust the setting and then complain about poor power and performance. The other problem is that the Edge juice relies on the stock sensors for all it gauges (expect pyro, trans temp, and fuel pressure). Like a hidden secret is that stock MAP sensor will not exceed 40 PSI. so if you start building into bigger toys the Attitude comes up short for boost gauge... Yeah I got a Edge Comp... And got gauges...