Mopar1973Man

If you every seen some of these crankcase flushes out there it smells like kerosine... So I would change the oil and filter... As long as you don't drive around a long ways i don't think you got to worry about it much...

Sweet ride... Look ready to haul anything... So what under the hood?

:banghead: D'Oh! That's right the early 24V's had CAD vacuum shift for 4WD operation so that vacuum line runs back to the transfer case then back forward to the CAC unit for hub locking/unlocking...

This should help...

So what did you get?

I'll keep my eyes out for one... But as far as I can tell for a vacuum lines on my 02 basically comes out of the pump goes to the firewall and over the engine on the cowling then near the passenger side it enter the cab for the HVAC system. Mine has a tee in the line for the Exhaust brake and thats it...

Sweet... I love to have that for hunting up here in Idaho... Nice conversion! Very clean!

Band adjustment? sorry I'm not much for Automatics...I know ol' Wild and free here should be able to help you...

Had to copy that over... Make it easier to find next time... (thanks! for the find Guesswho512) You need a blowby tool. The Cummins blowby orifice tool is simply a tee with one .221" (15/64-in) outlet. Connect one end of the tee to the end of the blowby tube. Put a manometer on last tee outlet. That is your blowby tool. They sell them at the Cummins, but I have made my own plenty of times, less than $10. A simple manometer can be made by looping into a 'U' 6 feet of clear tubing with water in it half way. Measure how high the water level rises with a tape measure, multiply it by 2, convert it to LPMs. Rough conversion is 1"= 27 lpm, add 3 lpm for each one inch (1/2'' of rise in the tube) of water The reason for multiplying by 2 is that inches of water equals the water rise in the open end of the tube plus the inches the water is pushed down on the engine side of the water tube. For simplicity my numbers below are the measurement of rise only. Cummins new 5.9 engine numbers are: 63 liters per minute(2.5" water rise) @ 2200rpm, 76 L/Min (3.5" rise) @ 2500rpm 85 L/Min (4.5" rise) @ 2800rpm. Worn engine that needs rebuilding are roughly double i.e. 126 L/Min(10.5"rise) @ 2200rpm 152 L/Min(14.5"rise) @ 2500rpm 170 L/Min(17"rise) @ 2800 rpm Beside indicating a compression problem the valves could also be out of adjustment. Another way (mine), same idea, is to block the blowby tube with a 1/2'' pipe nipple with a cap that has a 15/64 hole drilled in it. Use 3/8'' id looped clear tubing with water in it slipped over the oil dipstick tube. Other tubing end remains open. Use a sharp tipped felt marker to mark the water level with the engine off, have a helper start an already warmed up engine and run the rpms up to 2.2, 2.5 & 2.8k rpms. Mark each water level with the pen, measure the distance from engine off mark then multiply each by 2. This is all very simple to do, just hard to explain with words.

Now thats funny...

Even in the dodge FSM it notes that some ECM flashes do not bother with the inital burst of fuel pressure or the pump. But what is import in the starting pressure and the run pressure... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA Now... Wait till you run that tank out and load back up as a normal tank of fuel. I did the same thing trying to resolve a injector miss issues and guess what it all returned on the next fresh tank of fuel... So don't get you hopes up that injector cleaner resolve the problem in might come right back after the cleaner is gone... Reason being this occurs is because the injection cleaner is produce with either naptha or mineral spirits with have a VERY LOW flash point so now even if you have a bad spray pattern, weak pump, etc that littl extra boost in the flash point reducing will cause it to ignite easily (centane booster effect). So hence the problem goes away. But after you return back to normal fuel problem returns... So be aware of this...

The way to test it... Look at the front of the mirror passenger side you'll find a eye. Push the button upwards till lit (key ON) and then cover the eye in the front side of the mirror. The glass should start darkening even in daylight. When you remove your finger (or cover) it should resume back to clear glass... Great thing is the mirror works awesome with even 5% limo tint in the rear window! If you don't understand this test I get the camera out to shoot a bit of video...

Can't do it... The single T-couple only produces a small voltage. This voltage now would be shared by 2 devices causing the value to be incorrect and wrong. This is like running the stock ECT temp gauge and a Autometer gauge on the stock sender it will throw both out the window...

Sorry I guess the political discussions are gets a few people upset so I'm closing them out... (Sorry all)

Sorry to upset people... I guess it time to change and moderate topics... (Including myself) Once again sorry...

Just for fun crank it up full tilt... Then back down till your happy..

Yeap... On my Edge Comp I just shut it off and was fine for the flash... (Confirmed!)

I guess you got the test ports in the fuel filter then? If you got Big Line Kit then crack the elbow fitting at the vP44 for priing if needed... (Mine shown below)

Well you just proved the T180 is fine and so is the new hard drive... But as for the other computer it does have a controller problem. You could buy just a controller card (SATA) and disable the on board controller and use the add on.

Hmmm... Comments in blue...

Oh! Do tell about it... I'd love to hear about your results with your 3rd Gen...

Just use your finger nail or a small screwdriver to puh the pin in... Looks just like a tire schader valve... Little pin in the middle must be pressed while the pump is running to purge the air. Under the cap of #3...

Funny... I wish... In all my dodges I've always had to pull the cluster out... 77 Dodge Motorhome (Van head), 73 Charger SE, 78 Dodge Magnum XE... All of them require removal... So as for being able to reach up and change a bulb... Never heard of it yet...

Look here for both... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/reprime-fuel/reprime-fuel.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm

At that point you bore it out, re-sleeve it, and put new pistons in... Or just find another block that is low in miles...