Mopar1973Man

I got a false deck in my bed of my truck that has a utility drawer under it. Beside the drawer I got 2 hollows that I keep chains on 1 side and 2 cycle oil on the other. So I keep a 1 gallon jug and old quart bootle to measue with.

Boy... That looks good for a mod! Thanks for the wonderful write up... You might want to talk to Taz about this he want to convert his 1 ton to 4 wheels...

:agree: You could even use 2 cycle oil at 200:1 ratio to prtoect it better...

Like Racer-Dan found out he replaced his stock with another stock assuming the stock pump would be fine for stock setup... There is a post here with 12 PSI at idle and dropping to 7-8 PSI WOT... So I highly suggest oyu get a gauge soon...

I would go over to the vendor forum and post up and ask the local vendors to see what they got. Or venture over to the social groups ans see what they have for store fronts... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forumdisplay.php?f=67 or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php

Another valid one... I had my rear caliper bind up there pistons...:eek:

I would just do a fluid change and flush the system... I normally would disconnect 1 return line and route it to a waste bucket. Then cap the nipple on the pump. Then fill it up full. At this point thing happen rapidily... I would start the engine and rock the steering wheel left to right lightly enough to open the power valve. It will take only a few seconds to pump dry. SHUTDOWN at this point. Load back up with fresh fluid (synthetic if you wish). Then do this again 2 more times pushing all the dirty fluid out. Then once the return look cleaner then hook up the hose as normal and fill and purge the air out of the system. Normally never bother with synthetic fluids because of cost reasons. But the thing is I rarely have issues with power steering system because I change it regularly like I said above. Power Steering fluid should be change once a year or every 30K miles which every comes first... Remember that fluid lubricates the steering box, pump, and Hydro-booster. Also there is NO FILTER in this system so if debris enters the system by part failure or by human means the debris will be pushed through the system.

So very true...:thumbsup:

Remember you don't get the 3 cylinder high idle with the quadzilla... this where the serious heat is created and will warm up a engine rapidly on a super cold day. Where high idle itself does help but doesn't create enough virtual loading to create heat... Here is a simple temp I clipped from the High idle page to show the differeences... This is cold start with approximately 25*F-30*F outside temperature and the loading was measure with a ScanGauge II.

I'm running a Southbend Con OFE single disk clutch without a problem with Edge Comp on 5x5 and Rv275 injectors (when they were installed). The tires broke loose before the clutch did. That another nice factor to having 235/85 R16 better fuel mileage but easier to break loose and over sized clutches not required!

Fuel that are high cetane tend to produce extremely low MPG's. This tank of fuel is doing this try running out this tank and buy fuel from some where else...

Now I would love to mount that on my Cummins... The I'd be the only Cummins ready for the Snow here in Idaho...

Simple i even got a video for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

Wow! That actually goes along with the Global Warming thread... It so damn cold...

That ATS ground document is in the download pile already why search when its here on the site!

Most likely is a bad u-joint... I would pull the driveshaft out completely and inspect each joint closely. It's nearly impossible to inspect a u-joint with the driveshaft installed in the truck...

Rear speed sensor is shot... What is happening is the speed sensor is showing zero at the same time the front 2 sensors seeing speeds above 0 MPH so again the ABS computer can't understand how the half the vehicle is travelling faster than the other half so ABS/BRAKE lights are tripped and the error codes are stored P0500...

Alternator... I would bench test it next... Then voltage drop test the main cables... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

Naw no big deal just given you a ration of crap... I figure I would do a simple search and BAM the list grew... :shocked2:

P1682 Charging System Voltage Too Low Charging system output voltage low. So yes I would have the batteries load tested and the alternator bench tested to verify there abilities.

Heard the newbie rank bothered people I reduced the number of post to enter to a single post so after you made 1 post the newbie rank is lost. Welcome to member status... The Staff listens... As for the probing wires... I agree with dracozny I normally probe at the connector. If there is a rubber seal there take a paper clip and straighten out and carefully pick the seal up out of the connector. Now you got access to the terminals... Just use some di-electric grease to re-seal it when done. Here is some of the wiring diagrams... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm

Busted...http://www.theospark.net/2009/12/snowmobile-trail-closed-due-to-traffic.html http://whitetailwoods.blogspot.com/2009/12/snowmobile-trail-closed-due-to-traffic.html http://www.kxnet.com/getForumPost.asp?ArticleId=488710 http://www.sparkpeople.com/mypage_public_journal_individual.asp?blog_id=2661185 http://www.toonersworld.com/showthread.php?t=15127 There like 2 pages of links on google of this...

Good one Dorkweed...Naw... I don't yell at people for these things... I might edit it if its a bit racey but... Like I said nobody bites here they just might slobber on you though...

Wow! It was a Cummins too...Glad that both people are ok... But sad that old home got damaged...

Well I've been down there to test the output but there seem to be problems with the trigger lead on the alternator. There is no voltage at the trigger... It a delco remy alternator...