Mopar1973Man

That was back in the days of the PHPbb forum and I had a script to clean up old members and delete them. so during the conversion to VBulletin in created Guest account to fill the post in...

Geez... I just feel the love here...

Ed... May I ask what you fuel pressure is like with the old VP44??? :confused:

Ummmm... No diodes in the setup... All resistors... Usually a alligator clip or such works good at that though... But after I build them I normally would take my DVM and stick it in the ECM plug and toggle the switch and see what the resistor value is... Then in the other position it should be a dead short between plug to plug... So on the ECT fooler you should see 3.3K ohms and dead short... And then on the IAT you should see 33K ohms and 56K ohm then dead short... The dead short is normal basically passing back to the sensor as normal... It the open circuits that are a problem and tend to throw codes.

Wally world is the usual... But don't get worried about trying something different... most all 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS and works very well... Most name brand are good products it just the no-name stuff I tend to steer clear off being there is little information on it. Tried... [*]PennzOil (Which happens to be WalMart Supper Tech - Universial) [*]Quaker State [*]Yama-Lube (Semi-Synthetic) [*]Sthl (Chainsaw 2 cycle oil) [*]Phillips 66 Injex (Snowmobile) [*]Castrol (Snowmobile) And a few more I can't remember right now..

:agree: Yeap........

Actually there rubber tractor buckets... As for the current draw I've got a 20 Amp fuse running my light and the only fuse problems I've had was the fuse holder rotten away from corrosion... (Got wet a few times...)

Ok Dorkweed... BUSTED! You better catch up with Taz and ask him what happen today... Yes I work on his truck fixed his taillight problem. Then also was work on a clients Dell Computer... Then took off went for a ATV ride for about 2 hours and then now I got to pack up for town and get fuel for the Cummins and get some groceries... Yeah... Yesterday I never left the computer though... Raining...

Hey W & F... How about setting you Email notification up for instant and getting over 100+ email a day from CumminsForum... Then on top of that I got a link on my signature that goes to my contact us page and I get about 5-10 phone calls daily... As for CumminsForum.Com I still lurk around but don't post much... As for the phone calls yesterday it seem as soon the phone was hung up the phone rang again. I had 12 phone calls on help & support for the 24V 2nd Gens yesterday... Take a look at the Thanks Stats... Thanked 600 times in 468 Posts! Now try to find anyone on CumminsForum that has that much Thanks! Now to prove this I could show you a pic of my keyboard and how wore out it is... (no comment on my dirty keyboard) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98&stc=1&d=1260978951

They are roughly $15 bucks a piece seal beam bulbs. They are actually aircraft langing light to be exact. But here in Idaho they are sold at every NAPA around. So far I've mounted them on both Mom's truck and my own... Taz has a pair of 100w on the front of his too. Then I add a pair of 100w bulb to my rear axle!

You'd be the second one that I heard about that... I had a customer that had the same thing go wrong...

well my O-rings and copper shims will be here Friday...:evil:

Do you think I've been doing this too long? :eek: My profile off of CumminsForum.Com... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96&stc=1&d=1260933805

Nope haven't seen that...

Hmmm... I did a mod that I feel in love with because of such problems... So I made a set of 4 100w fog llamps that are 2 low beams and 2 high beams.... controlled by 2 relay... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/fog-lights/fog-lights.htm As for my stock head lights they are about worthless... The light path is scattered all over and beam is too wide (I think). There is no defined hot spot on the highway in front of you... As ofr aftermarket lighting I look at several but man you can spend a bunch on light, bulb housings, etc..:$:

Don't try that game with me... I'm a guru of the SG II...I pull simular numbers with cruise set at about 55-65 MPH because all the city streets in Idaho are 25 MPH or less! :rolleyes2:

Be aware of new wrom virus... I post up a post over on my Cloud 10 Computer about this nasty bug... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?p=5494#post5494

Apply caution when you get New Year messages in your mail box! A massive attack of the Storm Worm variant called ‘Zhelatin.pt’ is underway with a rather simpler modus operandi, say Security Experts at Micro World Technologies. It begins with emails arriving with subject line ‘Happy New Year’ or ‘Message for new year’. The mail body has a web address chosen from a random list that contains URLs like newyearcards2008.com, newyearwithlove.com, hohoho2008.com, hellosanta2008.com, happy2008toyou.com and uhavepostcard.com. On these websites, a message is displayed which reads as, “Your download should begin shortly…….. Click here to launch the download and press Run. Enjoy!” Clicking the link, a file named happynewyear2008.exe or happy2008.exe, which carries the worm Zhelatin.pt’, is downloaded into the computer. Once a victim clicks on the downloaded exe, the Worm drops some files and runs certain services to quickly and silently to make the computer a part of a large spam relaying network or Botnet. The first Zhelatin variant appeared in January 2007 which spread with the help of mails with a subject line ‘230 dead as storm batters Europe’ and other socio political events, thereby deriving its popular name - Storm Worm. All mails carried exe attachments with randomly chosen names that invariably lured recipients into downloading them. Users can protect their computers from Storm Worm by resisting the temptation of clicking on season’s greetings or other messages that require them to visit unknown websites and to download files, Manoj says. It is also equally important to keep their Antivirus and Spam Control systems up-to-date, he adds.

Well if it was me I would pull the alternator have it tested on a bench and then have the truck tested for batteries and charging output. Make sure you take your time ding the wire work and the reset... Up and down on the throttle slowly...

With a bit of modifications I've seen 3rd Gens with BHAF... :confused: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm Mine currently has 109K miles and 5 years and the turbo still clean!

159K miles and still running factory brake pads... No joke! :eek: Exhaust brakes do there job and save the brake pads quite a bit... Even worse I'll do my first brake job at roughly 200K miles and 10 years old! I drag trailers and haul heavy... Every year I haul about 12-15 cords of firewood down from the mountains at a elevation of 7K to 8K feet...

Here is the wiring diagram of the 1st Gen Dodge... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/1stgen/wiring/wiring.htm Then here is the ket trick for reading error codes... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=914 Basically you want to turn the ignition on, off, on, off, on in under 5 seconds and the CHECK ENGINE light will come on and start flashing codes...

Nope... It won't... I done this to Taz's truck when I did a tappet cover on the driver sive I hosed it down in 2 can of oven clean with a warm engine and let is sit for about 10minutes and rinse with water. To this day it's spotless... Well other than the new leaks he is creating now...:shocked2:

Wow! Canada... Hows the weather up north?

The quickest for melting that off is over cleaner but remember it will darken bare aluminum and strip old loose paint off a engine quick so don't leave it on for long. There is another product sold only at Costco which is a degreaser to (forgot the name) but it will also do a good job but a bit slow or poor and the thick stuff Most people swaer by simple green...