Mopar1973Man

This post is rather old and I'm sorry the pics are gone again but the Slealth plate allows you to tap the wire without cutting it. It makes a weather tight connection that never goes bad. Not to mention will not void your warrnaty by most shops... Plate shown here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/edge-comp/edge-comp.htm

Yeap... But remember bare aluminum will darken and turn black on you... So if there is polished aluminum on your engine I highly suggest you don't get any on it...

So now you going to retest here soon right??? To see if it was just a fluke or what?I like the magnet idea... ;)

Ok Gang...I got a chance to get back down and check over the problem some more. Here is what I found...Tried clearing the error codes all code return instantly.Hooked up my ScanGauge II and the data reported by the SG II is strange at best...TPS - Randomily jumping up and down between 0 and 99% thottle.ECT - Show a solid -40*FIAT - Shows a solid -40*FMAP - Sensor MAX out at 37.3 PSIACheck voltages...Battery and charging voltage 14.3 Volts max.Bus Voltage - 5.02 Volts in the sensor bus (ECT, IAT, MAP etc.)Got the listing of ground from the FSM and double check all of them. Then also performed a voltage drop test on all the main lines (battery cables and alternator cables)When you start it still behaves wierd. Throttling randomily, ccoolant gauge buries to the 240*F and trip the CEL light. Once it makes it to limp mode it will idle smooth but the throttle is dead. So if you clear the codes you got some thorttle for a short period then go wacky again...I'm starting to now lean towards a Crazy ECM box... And yes I looked up the ground for the ECM it located behing the starter and the lead was tight.

On the brakes you might want to dis-assmeble the calipers. It will blow you mind how much debris will fall in the bottom of the caliper and not bleed out.Then on the power steering I would disconnect one return line and put it in a catch container and pump out as much and flush with fresh fluid. The system hold over 1 quart between the gear box and the hydro boost. So turkey baster doesn't work because it doesn't flush the debris out of the system. Remember the system has no filter...

So did you change the fluid? :confused:

Everytime I wash the truck I wash the engine... No exceptions... I don't care if its -20*F outside that engine gets a bath the same time my truck body gets a bath. This allows me to track down new wet spots (coolant, oil, etc.) easily and repari then quickly when a new one starts. This is one reason I've got a clean looking engine. Now for the really gunky engines a can of over cleaner will strip all grease, oil, gunk and even darken aluminum. But it will be super clean. I've done this on a buddies truck a few times... :thumbsup But other that washing the engine evey time I was the truck... :confused:

I wouldn't want to personally try that Russ but I beat it would aid for a short time but the lack of extra fuel flow would eventually kill it I'm sure... Like running a engine without a constant oil pressure eventually the bearings will fail...

Actually the PCM... Because the main source (alternator) is also high voltage (Above 14)... So this cascades down the electrical system to the ECM and pulls even the 5V up...

Just because the pump is buzzing doesn't mean the pump is good. These carter stock pumps have a plastic hub inside them that will break free and the pump motor will buzz but the pump rotor is just sitting there... If there is no pressure or flow assume the pump is dead. As for check valve... Nope there is no check valve on the pressure side only the return side of the VP44.

Wow... I'm ahead of still I'm heading towards 145K miles and closing the gap on 100K miles on my VP44... ;)

PCM controls the alternator charge rate inconjunction with the battery temp sensor. So as for the sensors on the engine the ECM controls the 5 volt signal for the engine sensors. So if the alternator is running wild (over charging) or not running at all (under charging) then everything else start to fall apart. But the Cummins ECM can run as low as 8 Volts and still keep the engine going. (At least what I've heard)

Ok gang I need you guys to double check me on this here...Truck Specs: 2002 Dodge Cummins - 128K miles - 2500 - Stock(No its not my truck!)Error Code list:P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage High Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage.P0118 - ECT Sensor Voltage Too High Engine coolant temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltageP0238 - Map Sensor Voltage Too High MAP sensor voltage input above the maximum acceptable voltage.P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High InputP0563 - Charging System Voltage Too High Supply voltage sensed at ECM too high.P0577 - Cruise Control Related MalfunctionP1286 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Supply Voltage Too High High voltage detected at APPSP1475 - Aux 5 Volt Supply Voltage High Sensor supply voltage for ECM sensors is too high.I've not had a chance to verify the battery volts while running. But at idle the engine is randomly reving up to nearing 2K on the tach. Gauges are going wild all rising up randomly. Durin the short time I was there the coolant temp gauge pegged out (cold engine).My thought on it is the PCM voltage regulator is fried out... But I want to make sure and double check myself against the group here...

There is a lot you can do... most just sand it down and paint it over... Time to get creative! :D

sorry the 4.89 is the upper limit... From what I'm finding... But your only showing 4.77 Volts... So your with in specs yet from what I'm reading form the FSM...

4.89 Volts is the limt... But your only hitting 4.77 Volts... :confused:

Glad your fixed up... Glad it was a easy fix for ya... :thumbsup

Hmmm... P1763 - Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too HI Voltage greater than 4.89 volts (4-speed auto. trans. only).So now you need to tap that wire and measure the voltage on the fly. Then you might have to adjust you resistor to reduce the voltage to bring it back in line. But make sure the voltage isn't because its shorted out to 12V by chance throwing the code...

About time you show up...Geez! LOL welcome to my lil' forum...

I found out that there was a report of 2002 that had KDP failure that did damage... :wow The guy was nice enough to post the receipt from the dealer showing the repairs on a 2002 Dodge...

I'm going to point out to everyone there is NO WAY to have just a P1693 code present during error code dumping. Yes the P1693 is a companion code and has no really meaning but... "This code indicates there is more code present in the other computer" So if the P1693 is in the P PCU that means there is more codes present in the P ECU. So if there is a P1693 in the P ECU that means there is more codes present in the P PCU. Then even in rare cases seeing the P1693 code in both computers pointing out that both computers have codes. But there is NO WAY for the P1693 to be the only codes present during error code dump. It's totally impossible! The reason I'm posting this is because it seem like everyone is cancelling out at the first P DONE thinking its done. WRONG! There is TWO computers in the truck. P PCU = Powertrain Controller Unit (Passenger side firewall) P ECU = Engine Controller Unit (Driver side of engine block) You should always see both P PCU and P ECU displayed and 2 P DONE's in the display. If you want to see a video of this and how to properly do it please reffer to my web site and watch the video I produced so you can give us acurrate information on your problems your having with your truck. Here is the page with the video of how its done... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Now the other thing is alot of people are getting error code from OBD II sites or from manuals with the scanners. I'll point out that any code over P1000 is a manufacture specific code that only applies to the that make and model of vehicle so please refer to a proper Factory service manual and get the proper codes. I've got some books listed on my site provided by PDFTown.com http://pdftown.com/Dodge-Ram-2001-Service-Manual.html As for 2nd Gen 24V error codes I copied the error code listing straight out of the Dodge FSM for our truck and made a short PDF file for viewing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/error-codes.pdf This will help us diagnose your problem quickly and properly.

Page fixed... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... _codes.htm

The page happens to be missing... Let me fix that problem...

Hmmm... If you a SO Engine... Nope... Dumb idea though... :confused: As for the key I've got a solution for that... Another member told me... "Super Glue!" LOL

Hmmm... JL... Do you have any new error codes at all?You might try a cam sensor for the tach jump but I don';t think that going to cure the strange idle jump issue... Is there someone you could swap VP44 with? :confused: