Mopar1973Man

Don't get me wrong I've got a small 2kw generator but I need a 100 foot cord and move the generator way out in the woods. Hence the small solar and inverter setup. Like my trip to Pittsburg Landing on Memorial Day I listened to all the generators all day long. Since I had Kayden (Jake's son) we fired up the TV and fell asleep with it running all night. Woke up and the TV was still playing that movie series. Turn the solar panels around it was charging still while the TV was still going. No issues with charging tablets and cell phones too.

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My Jayco is outfitted with 1,200 watt inverter. No sound or noise from the inverter and the solar panels keep the batteries charged up. Just flip two switches and the house has 120 VAC in all the outlets. No gasoline, no noise, just peace and quiet.

Hey guys. I've got to do wheel joints on the front axle. Now the driver side shaft just slides out. Now the passenger side shaft won't come out even prying against it. Is there a clip in the differential or what? Weird the driver side shaft just about falls out and slides in easy as pie. That passenger shaft is resisting the idea of coming out. Ideas, thoughts, or a bit of knowledge? Just finished up replacing both front unit bearings. This is when I found the passenger side shaft has a worn out wheel joint. I've got both wheel joints here and can easily do it at another time but the whole problem of the getting that passenger shaft out of the axle is my biggest issue.

Yup. Still good here with the 320 bar. Very clean burning very little smoke.

I run the ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge. The got the ISSPro programming cable and set the warning light at 13 PSI. There is even more programmable functions in each gauge. Even can install the optional relay and you can set level for the relay to control like trans temp gauge set the relay for 160F but set the warning light for 200F.

If still shifting weird replace the output speed sensor in the tail of the transmission.

1300 for a rebuild is HIGH. Might look at Diesel Auto Power. They carry the reman'ed pumps for much less also by a certified Bosch rebuilder.

Personally I like solder ends this seals out the salt and the wires are more or less welded to the ring terminal.

Best to pull the VP44 to do it right. I've got both articles on pulling the VP44 and doing the tappet cover.

Been using a mayo jar and vinyl tubing for years. Tubing has to have snug fit.

Yes you should be able to key on no start to test the system.

USPS can be slow yet being the amount of freight still being sent making up from the COVID-19 shut down.

Also at 320 bar (7 x 0.010). No starting or idling issues. Being my setup can and will spin all 4 tires. Towing power is super good. Your larger tires do change the final ratio lower number. Like myself went smaller tired and increased the final ratio to 3.69 and I run 2k RPM at 66 MPH. This lowered my EGTs. Even my 2006 Dodge is 3.73 gears and slightly larger tires and just about the same RPM at 66 MPH. You should be cruising close to 2k at 65 MPH. Even at 80 MPH im just under 2.5 RPM. 2002 at 65 MPH is about 2.5 PSI boost and 550 to 600 EGTs. 2006 at 65 MPH is about 5 PSI boost and about 650 EGTs. FINAL RATIO - has huge effects on running EGTs.

Cool. At least you heading forward again.

Be best to have a tuner and gain back the boost fooler. Like the 2006 I've got any time it has any engine code the boost is limited to barely 20 PSI which the EGTs are much higher. When all codes cleared it will run 30 to 35 PSI and EGTs are much lower. Always best to have good boost while towing or climbing grades.

18 to 19 PSI... at 20 PSI the ECM is defueling.

You could send a sample of oil to a lab and verify the if the oil is contaminated. Place fuel can come from... Injector o-rings and high return pressure on the VP44. Bad injector(s) that is stuck open or cracked nozzle. Cracked head (rare) but yes I've seen this where the return fuel was push up into the top of the head. Worn rings . cylinder wall clearance (excessive blow by)

Quad XZT is like the Edge EZ model. Way different when you have the Adrenaline. Way more control of everything including timing and fuel mapping. Still best to have a tuner module that allows for custom timing. This is where the High MPG comes from. Fuel map you can custom out like I've done. 0 to 5 PSI from 80% to 100%, then from 5 to 15 PSI is all STOCK fuel at 100%. Then at 15 PSI and up both my wire tap and the CANBus fuel will rise together for strong passing power. My timing is currently 20 degrees at 2k RPM's in cruise state.

Yea, I agree, I was sold on Lucas when my power steering pump was leaking a half Qt a day out the sector shaft seal while on the on the road in NH , stopped and bought a Qt of Lucas Steering stop leak, 3/4 through the Qt the leak stopped. Be careful. If you use too much of that product it can and will blow the pump or the hoses. I've seen it done on a older Ford pickup and the thickness of the product can increase pressure sharply and blow things up. The owner of this truck just kept adding the product and eventually it blow the pressure hose in half.

Just to say this my first adventure with my diesel was a failed lift pump pumping a mere 7 PSI and shortly after that P0216 code. This was the beginning of my website back in 2004. The first article I made. All covered under warranty. From that point upgraded stuff and never looked back. My second VP44 failed after 247k miles and a P0216 code but stuck in full advancement. Still running on my 3rd pump at 432k miles. Even the Dodge FSM states 10 PSI minimum.

Still would not of cut the wires. Exposed wires will always degrade faster even with shrink tube. Just think even the factory ground splices are sealed in shrink tube and glued ends. Still we all do the W-T ground mod.

As for MAP sensors you should try a second one of quality. (Cummins or NAPA). Then ohm out the wires between the ECM and MAP sensor. Might be a bad Quadzilla module and/or wiring too.

All true above. I normal use the same oil the system is running. Like A/C I've got a bit of PAG oil. Engine stuff I use engine oil. Pretty simple.

Correct this is why I suggest 14 to 20 PSI. Below 14 PSI is starts closing then by 10 PSI the overflow is closed. All extra cooling and luring is gone below 10 PSI.