Mopar1973Man

I just had to do injector warranty for my buddy down the road. I sold him 140 HP injectors for his 94 12V Cummins. After he got back from the California trip he blew a head gasket come to find out he had white to grey smoke as well. 2 injectors had issues one he managed to crack the nozzle and the other was was popping strangely sometime popping correct and others no. We upgraded from reman'ed bodies to fully new bodies and DAP replaced all the needles and nozzles and re-popped. Back to running good.

Yeah I've seen two trucks here sell right around 20k.

That's another simple trick. Remove the DPF and beat a rod through it. It will not regen. Reinstall. Deleted software wise... No back pressure no regen. You could find another DPF can beat it out and install fully gutted DPF and never get a regen.

Another 53F morning here. Super cool outside and quiet. Like this morning I open the sliding door just a bit to allow some of the morning cold air to weep in the house.

Call DAP and talk to them... They have tuners that can do such a thing. Just like Adams, Co. Idaho has no smog testing either but a local kid took the hardware delete option and then after doing the delete attempt to take it to a dealer for sale. That ended very badly. No dealer would even touch that truck for sale in Boise or Lewiston. I was force to sell it private party. Just because you don't have smog testing in your area I'm pretty sure no dealer can sell or take a trade in of any deleted trucks now. I know this is true for Idaho.

Even the tuners I've used in the past you can return to pure stock as long as all the equipment is present. If its deleted you will be in a huge bind to return all the hardware back to the truck. This why I prefer the software delete method being it just a matter of about 15 minutes and its back to pure stock and all the smog equipment is present. Disclaimer ---> I DO NOT suggest or even recommend any kind of hardware delete on any vehicle there is better ways of handling this issue.

Another cold morning at 52F for a start but it going to get hot today. Already 70F and rising yet.

Be aware any vehicle deleted physical no dealer will allow it to be bought or sold. If you live in a "smog controlled" county or state you could be in trouble as well. I would rather software delete it so visibly the truck is complete when inspected. The tuner will give a bit more power and better timing. There is delete tuners out there that delete out most of that software to no use the devices. It will still re-gen but much, much less. Here is a trick. Like I've done this on a Ford 6.0L is pull the EGR cooler and put freeze plugs in the exhaust passage of the cooler. No longer flows any exhaust gases but the ECM still thinks it working. This could be done on Cummins as well by making a steel gasket without the passage holes.

Blinking WAIT TO START. No start or run. I had to call them on how to recover the ECM which they managed to do. It was a bad flash... After all the problems I went back to the Quadzilla. Let say I wasn't happy with all the problems, limits, etc. Still never got to use it.

It was being setup on The Beast. Communication issues. Randomly working and not working. So I had them test before returning first trip back still didn't work found it was my ODBII plug had one pin push out. Then week later I managed to get a tune flash but it trash the ECM and had to call then to recover my ECM. Which they did and sent it back to find out what went wrong. Second VIN slot taken. Then once it returned I finally was getting setup to build a tune and then told me oh you need a dongle, etc. I gave in at that point... Never got to actual drive and use this unit but lost over a month of sending it back and forth.

You have to remember the mechanical limits too. On a 24V there is only so much time that the VP44 is pumping to one cylinder so there is a limit of how much you can push through. I've know of guy in the midwest I've been talking to that built a better VP44 that flow enough to supply 1000 HP fuel only, I was giving him info about the internals of the pump and the managed to open up the internals to supply more. Quadzilla can provide up to 180 HP over stock. Now on the CR engines (2003+) the common rail makes everything equal to a point. Still in all there is so much time that you can spray fuel in a cylinder. Now on the CR engine I know the Smarty can provide up to 210 HP over stock. Comparing CR vs VP44 tuning wise I know the CR engine is more precise in tuning over VP44. Being most VP44 tuners hijack the CANBus with priority message and inject the new data. Now CR engine most all tuners will reflash the ECM with new data to change up all the fuel timing and other parameters.

Bummer dude... You not giving me warm and fuzzy at all. I really don't want the headache of the Smarty. After using it for such a short time and spent more time trying to get it to work and sent in back 2 times and then lost 2 VIN slots. There was no way to gain that back so just in there bench test they "stole" 2 VIN slots and left me only one VIN slot left. I gave Smarty back and walked away. I never even got to fire up the Tuning Software because of the dongle lock and other crazy crap. I was suppose to provided a fully unlocked unit with all the extras, nope.

This is correct. Like @AH64IDsaid my +50HP injectors in Thor is 18% over stock so yes the overhead trip computer shows about +3 MPG higher (because of the shorted duration) vs actual. Now my +150 HP injectors are not flowing the full 150 HP being I'm popped higher 320 bar so that makes about sense for the offset to be about 43% over stock. So on The Beast the 43% flow difference I'm getting 43% more at stock fuel (Quad 100%) without adding fuel. Since the duration is shorted up 43% so when I add fuel on the tuner I can expand the duration to MAX through the Quadzilla and gain so much more.

@W-T is totally correct. Diodes across the relay coil is so so important. I'll give a good example of the spike of energy from a collapsing coil. I've got a LED rocker switch on my exhaust brake. I did not hook up the switch ground for the LED. Every time I switch it off in the dark you can see the LED on the switch dimly light up. Like I said there is no ground hook up on the switch so it should not light up. If it was hooked up the switch LED work burn up for the collappse of the coil the spike would blow the LED out. Already lost one switch to this problem (burned up LED). In W-T article the long version of the W-T ground wire he explains about the design of the factory lift pump which had good noise suppression, sadly the pump itself is more or less junk. But electrically it was one of the best pumps for noise reduction system build in. None of aftermarket pumps FASS or AirDog have noise suppression. Remember since W-T uses a Ham Radio in his truck all source of spark or arcing has to be suppressed to prevent drowning out the radio with random RF noise.

Roughly 43% more. This figure is from my flow calibration in the iQuad app. Efficiency wise you want a good range of where the fuel table remains 100% while daily driving. This is why my CANBus table is 100% between 5 PSI and 15 PSI. Now if the load on the truck manages to pull 16 PSI or higher now the CANBus fuel is ramping up to 150%. Now if the wire tap is enabled now both CANBus and Wiretap will ramp up together to 30+ PSI. This makes serious power being both CANBus and Wire Tap are running together at the same rate. The other thing I figured out you shouldn't be able 100% fuel while trying to hit or hold cruise timing. Hence the 5 to 15 PSI wide 100% CANBus fuel range of my table.

If the grid heater cycle is completed it will not run the grid heater to you cycle the key OFF for at least 10 to 15 seconds. Then there is a fresh reboot of the ECM and grid heaters will be checked for IAT temperature and always there is bulb check on the first key on. After that the WAIT TO START will not run again on subsequent tries on the same key cycle. You might check the PDC fuses for cracks. Bad connection of power. Also there is a fuse in the cab too for powering the ECM and PCM for trigger ON.

This morning it's 45F here. Yup it is so cold this morning I've got heat on in the house. By next week it will be back to 100F days again. Yesterday high was a mere 65F.

It cooled off so much here I've got my heat pump running today its only 64F outside now. Raining just a spit here and there. I've already headed to McCall and Lake Fork this morning and then back into Riggins. Even my rain gauge on my weather tower shows ZERO inches...

Oh eventually I will improve that truck too. Once funds allow for a good tuner for the CR engine I'll buy into something that give full control. Me personally it will not be a Smarty... I'll most likely go toward EFI Live.

Every 3 days I fill up Thor at 110 to 120 USD. Typically close to 28 to 32 gallons. I travel approximately 150 to 200 for my McCall - Donnelly job. I automatically make 85 dollars for just leaving the house. Still in all Thor is about 16 to 17 MPG.

Seals yes, guides no.

@Wet Vette just showed me a 2004 V8 Hemi Dodge for $3,500 on Facebook ads. Of course I've got no need for gasser...

Actually your looking at the back of the dash assembly. Like if you had the dash pull out of the truck as you see the path of the wires are backward mirror image. They are heading towards the bulk head connector on the driver side.

Should be...

Neither do I (no steering wheel controls) but still there is still a 2 wire connector with the 2 CCD Bus wires even on my truck. (vio/brn) and the (wht/blk) wires... ALL truck have this connector regardless of steering wheel controls.