Mopar1973Man

AC noise. What did you measure before at the alternator BATT post and after the W-T mod?

Low quality tablet are that way. I bought one for $40 bucks. I've still got it. Too old of OS and the iQuad app will run but it will not draw the needles on the gauges. Mine the battery only last like 30 minutes to 1 hour and its dead.

Too much oil in the system. Really common for guys that use the Walmart big can.

Not really a fools errand... Just consider I started my first business of "Cloud !0 Computer" after graduating from ITT Tech (Van Nuys, CA). I ran that business till 2008. When the market crashed it had a huge impact. By that time the website and the amount of diesel work I was doing was better option. So I put the extra effort and crated the business name of "Mopar1973Man.Com" for shop work. As for the "Cloud 10 Computers" I left it behind but hold the name still. I could bring it back with all my Linux Knowledge and Server Setups. In the meantime the Mopar1973Man shop side has been doing very well. In all the years... There is a bunch of part time or oddball jobs. Images in glass and mirror (Hung mirrors in Eddie Van Halen's House!) Motorcycle body work Montgomery Wards (Tires and batteries) Cable assembly Auto body Car stereo installer Restaurant "dish pit" Computers (Windows) and Internet setup (Cloud 10 Computers) Managed Steelhead Inn (Motel) Shop mechanic (Mopar1973Man.Com) Linux Server Admin (Mopar1973Man.Com)

Kind of like I threw out the Dodge FSM and went against everyone and using Mobil 50 SAE Transmission Fluid in my NV4500. Way better lube than factory fluid and cost much less even for 5 Gallons. It is a GL-4 transmission lube and has zero impact on shift quality. This is the very same transmission lube used in Eaton Fuller 10 speed transmissions. Very heavy duty transmission lube.

All I can say is try again. See if the problem is repeatable.

Wasn't sure. Like myself I've got no security either. Still in all be aware than VIN number might come back to cause system bugs. Rare but does happen.

Can you show us a screen shot or a photo of the page of this clip and where?

At any rate the CTM you choice from where ever... You going to need to have them flashed and proper VIN number flash to it. Being the PCM and CTM both handle security features.

Even on 24V injectors you cannot just swap nozzles on those either. Still require to be pop tested and flow matched. I look at it this way do it right the first there will not be a second time...

Done... Doing the wheel joints this way is way faster and super easy to pound the caps inward.

Got the shaft out. Had to pry it out just with a bigger bar. As for the wheel joint. I cut the trunnion out, then using a socket and hammer drive the bearings caps inward.

Steering shaft you should check to see if the shaft moves like bad shaft bearing. I see a lot of people that grab the steering wheel to pull themselves up into the driver seat. This will wear out the lower bearing on the shaft. I remember there is a company (don't remember the name) that make a new sleeve for the steer shaft.

No joke very nice looking truck you have...

I use NAPA track bars with little issues. I get between 80k to 120k miles out of track bar. Typically about 5 to 10 minutes. Basic tools. Either end I've seen the rubber bushing fail and then typically the ball stud end will move up and down when you turn the steering wheel back and forth.

I would go read up on the P1698 code and do some diagnostics on the CCD Bus. White smoke is a timing issue. Should be a P0216 code coming soon. Speed is from the ABS module. The Check Gage light might be from loss of the CCD bus from the ECM as well since the cluster computer didn't get any info it drops out of range on the gauges and tripping the light. Remember the PCM creates the CCD bus messages and the cluster is what provides the bias voltage for the CCD bus. Bus Failure The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures for details on how to diagnose these faults using a DRBIII scan tool.

Do a full injectors. DO NOT do just nozzles. There is no way for you to adjust the injectors properly without a test stand. Like myself I got a set of +50 HP injectors from DAP and just installed them. If you change nozzles only there is no way to be sure the injectors are setup properly.

The only thing about LEDs is it depends on the headlight reflector for pattern, Cheap headlights will produce poor pattern of light. Where HIDs depend on the lens and typically its a very smooth pattern of light compared to any LED bulb.

Not vacuum leak at least past the check valve double check the line between the pump and check valve.

I've got a gent just down the road from me wants $25,000 for his 2nd gen. Between the brand new flatbed, and other new items I can see why.

Worth it in the long haul. There is even an optional relay you can program for controlling other functions like trans temp gauge you can program a fan to turn on at say 180*F and warning light at 200*F. With +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) and Quadzilla I'm at 500 HP roughly now. Final ratio will make or break this for EGT's. Like most here know I dropped the 31" tires (235's or 265's) for 245's which are 30 " tires on 3.55 gears and final ratio is now 3.69:1 which is cool running ratio and EGT's are low. Smarty regardless even with UDC is not going to net you much more than +60 HP. Then the pure cost of the of the Smarty is going to be much higher than the Quadzilla with less features. (No wire tap, no turbo cooldown, etc.) Quadzilla can be ran headless and more secure because there is not a tuner display hanging in the cab somewhere.

Might talk with @Dynamic on the transmission. He's a super good transmission build being I've got one of his in my 1996 Dodge 1500. He does mods that Firepunk will not do like extra cooling jets for the clutch packs. Yup he drills two holes on the return oil line inside the case that spray cooled oil on the clutch keeping them cool. Just can't beat Jon for a transmission build. On the FASS consider you location of the pump and the filters. FASS has serious issues for location and the filter being damaged by road debris or clearance between filter to ground being I've seen a few up here go over a "Goat Hump" and tear the filters off the filter base or flip up a rock or wood and smack the filter causing filter damage. This is one thing I do love about AirDog its small enough to tuck right behind the transfer case and the skid plate guards the filters. If you like the idea of having programmable gauges I would towards the ISSPro EV2 series that you can custom set the warning light for any value you wish. Like I've got EGT's set for 1,200*F and the trans temp set for 220*F, Fuel pressure set for 13 PSI. Less gauge watching, just the red LED pops at on you can spot which gauge without even moving an eye just by position of the light. Mine is Boost (top), Fuel pressure (mid), and EGT's (bottom) of the a-pillar. Trans temp in on the column. Quadzilla is the best choice for a 2nd Gen 24V Cummins. Nothing to say here. Turbo is going to be based on the size of injectors and other supporting mods. 4" exhaust is more than enough to cover what your doing.

Something I should look at on Thor (2006 Dodge). Being its got a leveling kit in the front end and no other supporting mods like adjustable track bar or lower control arms that are adjustable. Handling is OK but kind of darty and already experience death wobble once! As you lift these trucks the axle moves down and the caster becomes more negative. Then the thrust angle is typically altered because of the track bar is now to short. 2 inch leveling kit.

Heck, even north in Idaho we already seen 105*F here and night temps in the low 60's. Us out here just go up in elevation for camping so you won't need A/C or even power. I was just talking to a friend about camping and he said after May it all above 5,000 feet or better so you can get away from the heat and not need A/C. My last camping trip to Pittsburg Landing was hot and just listening to a campground full of generators running really not all that cool. I would just shut down for the day and go rest in the RV or shade of tree and talk with friends.

Shouldn't take too much being the transfer case is easy to remove. Two driveshafts and 6 nuts around the transfer case.