Mopar1973Man

Get a hold of me I've got a one wire kill that it will not start. Then if you have the Quadzilla and level it on level 1 (Valet mode) and then set valet mode for like 10% it will still drive but barely. Its top speed is 20 MPH on my truck. Even another member here had a Quadzilla and they stole his truck and abandon the truck because of lack of speed. (Valet mode). I just had Eileen's car broken into just a short time ago. We figured since her car has an alarm it safe. NOPE! They broke out the window and stole my camera out of the back seat and the alarm NEVER went off.

OBDLink or similar. I've got only my Innova ODBII tool right now and it does live data well. https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/

If you going camping and need air conditioning your going the wrong spot. I just had this conversation with friends. Like my last camping trip was OK. No hook ups at all. It got into the high 90's for temperature. We went out on a jet boat and went fishing for most of the day. I'm still OK to camp in that and don't require A/C. Still in all I'm looking to get above 5,000 feet elevation to get away from the heat. Being I'm working at 5,000 feet now for my job which isn't too bad. Then I reverse in the winter time head lower into the canyon to get to something a bit warmer. You sure wouldn't want to go to Death Valley in the middle of the summer to go camping just not a smart thing being it does get over 120*F down there. Might be super enjoyable going there in the early spring when weather is cooler. As summer get on around here we all just keep moving up in elevation to beat the heat. I've only been in a handful RV parks with full hook ups which is nice but not what I want. I don't want a neighbor so close I can reach out my window on knock on there trailer. Even at home I've got hundreds of feet between me and my neighbor. When I go camping I don't want neighbors. I don't want other people wandering through our camp spot. Most of my camping is dry camping without hook ups and without A/C. Even my last trip was out at Pittsburg Landing on the Snake River. The camping spots are spread out, but yeah everyone fired up generators and listen to all those engine humming away. Myself I closed the blinds and slowed down and go lazy for the day watching TV. The interior temp got to a mere 82*F bit warm but doable. I had a partial shade on the trailer through the day which helped. Rest of my power I just kept moving solar panels and pointing them at the sun. Thankfully I did NOT mount my solar panels to the roof being the roof was shaded by a tree. I do have a small 2kw generator I've packed on a few trips. Its a knock off generator that is super light and fair good with fuel consumption. Last year I had both of Eileen's grandkids out camping and took the generator being I wasn't sure how much solar power or sun I might get tuck in the trees. I brought a 100 foot cord and hauled the generator out as far as all my cord would give. I burned up over 5 gallons of fuel in just a few days. I do have a 4kw generator that will power the A/C but that thing is a beast of generator very heavy and it drink gasoline like a bar drunk. It will power my A/c no problem, water heater no problem, even the microwave, even all the above together on that 4kw. Now are you going camping to get away from it all? Me??? Absolutely!!! I'm will to give up the need for A/C. I'm will to give up the need for my cellphone and internet. Truthfully I welcome the idea being somewhere my phone doesn't work then I can turn it OFF!!! Could I go sit in a creek and play in the water? Absolutely. Could I take off on a ATV and go to a mountain lake and go fishing? Sure! How about grabbing a innertube and floating a river? More ways to cool off and enjoy your trip without the need for A/C.

Unhook the Quadzilla and watch the MAP sensor with a live data tool and see if it drops. If not then the Quadzilla has a problem with the boost fooler or boost circuit. If it continues after removing the Quadzilla then you have ECM to MAP sensor issue.

I never thought this day would come admitting my vision sucks and cant't do like I did when I was 30 years old ans soldering like a crazy man. Just need a magnifying light and steady hands. Yeah I guess I could pull that cluster out and reflow most of the board if I order a good solder gun like the last one. It was electronic temp controlled.

Yeah if I had a soldering gun. Strange enough I bought one awhile back and was going to try soldering the high idle kits but being I'm past 50 years old and my vision sucks. I gave it to @Me78569 when his gun burned up to keep him producing high idle switches. I still need to get a heavy duty soldering gun.

No problem. The only thing the 02 had a small problem with is hard starts while nose up. Yup good old crossover tube o-rings and injector o-rings. This was from the fact of the head got cleaned up and both the injectors just dropped in and the crossover tubes had zero resistance I'm sure one or both o-rings are weeping.

Thanks! That is what I was looking for... Well I guess I'll be calling Module Master in Moscow, ID and have them rework my cluster.

My suggestion, don't drill for sump. So far I know of two people that have drilled for the sump and ended up hunting bone yards for a new fuel tank. Best not to drill or add any sump. I've been using a draw straw (outside the basket) for years. Just remember once you make a mistake of drilling or cutting into your fuel tank bottom there is no fixing after that!

Stops the short circuit from burning up the PCM. 5A is quicker to shut down the short. 7.5A will still work but blows later. Basically in a nutshell the blue wire on the alternator is a tach signal controlled +12V power source. When the alternator field is shorted out on the blue side it will pull the max current which is 20A till the circuit tracer inside the PCM burns up. Which my PCM did so well that it was declared junk because it burned not only the tracers but the fibergalss board too. With no way to repair. This is why I opted for 5A fuse so if the short occurs then the fuse blow out super quick and no damage comes to the PCM. This is where the external regulator stems from because once the trace burns the alternator stops charging. So most installed external regulators. Now the problem is that all the external regulators from Mopar were temperature sensitive since 1962 or 1963 or so. As the under hood temperature would change the charging rate of the alternator would too. Common mistakes is trying the external regulator and either mounting it in a spot to hot (like near the turbo of exhaust) this will make it undercharge. Then I've seen a few mount in too cool of a place and now it overcharges and boils the batteries out. So the whole PCM protection fuse is to prevent damage from short circuit on the blue wire. NOTE: If the green wire was to short to ground it would charge at max rate. No damage comes to the PCM at all. Only the blue wire will do damage.

Yes. Absolutely correct. Actually I'm running about 20 to 21 degrees at 2k RPM. I've ran as high as 23 degrees. Now as for gearing I'm 3.55 in both axles and running 245/75 R16 tires which brings the final ratio to 3.69:1 to the ground. Then my injectors are popped at 320 bar which makes them late so I must run higher timing in a cruise state to make up for the late injection event. The net result is better MPG and power. Fuel map wise on the Quadzilla I choose from 0 to 5 a defuel zone for launching. Then 5 to 15 PSI the fuel map is stock 100%. Now from 15 to 30+ fuel map both the wire tap and the CANBus ramp up together making some serious power up from there.

Here what I mean on the tach. 65 mph. Then idling at lunch time with a/c on.

Personally I'd love to put a 5 speed in my 2006. Even with 3.73 gear you need to row 5 gears (1:1 direct) to get 25 MPH. I might change my mind after towing a trailer but lot of hand shaking in a town with 25 mph speed limit. Ugh.

It's true. Hx35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12) and +150HP DAP injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar. Then the Quadzilla no issues it runs strong and smoke free. I do get a puff but clears up super fast.

2002 I finally had a driver side door lock fail me. I pull all the locks (passenger and driver) then the ignition lock and took them to George's Lock and Key in Lewiston ID and had them gone through. I've got the locks back in the truck and the linkage in the door was getting stiff from all the years. I power washed the inside of the doors and the latch assemble and lubed it up really well with silicone spray. Now I'm just waiting for a bit of extra funds I'm going to buy a new set of speakers for the front doors and a bag of door panel fasteners. Reassemble for the last time. I've pulled the panels off for window motor (passenger side), then added towing mirrors (Both sides came off), now the door lock issue with both sides off. I just want to put it back together for good. Still fun to drive but not comfortable resting you arm on hot sheet metal. As for the lock on the driver side somehow one of the wafers in the driver side lock got bent. It bent the holder just enough that even a new wafer didn't work so it was omitted from the drivers side lock and now it functions just fine. I've got a new fuel tank sender entire unit from DAP. I've got to find some time to pull the tank and install the new sender. I know its not fun but not hard either. I started gather up the filters for both trucks and getting a bit of free time to change fluids in both.

Well since I made the move to process to purchase the 2006 Dodge from the bank... New injectors +50 HP New Valair dual disc quiet towing clutch New Front unit bearings New crank sensor New Intake air sensor (crush it don't ask) New valve cover gasket (o-ring) It getting more and more reliable for driving back on forth to work. I'm looking to getting tires soon since the passenger side front is slow leaking and the rubber is getting weather checked after sitting for at least 3 years. I've got 275/70 R18 on it right now. I've got 3.73 gears I'm thinking of going up to a 285/70 R18 to bring the tach down a bit more. I'm not sure I can even trust the tach info yet being it some time shows me idling at 300 RPM and other times at 800 RPM. I'm starting to think there could be a AC noise issue with the alternator. I've got electrical to do on the bed and tail light yet its still just cobbled together for now. I need to wire in the goose neck plug and the bumper plug for 7 pin. Since I bought the tool boxes I've been adding more and more weight to the truck. Just like yesterday I spent $100 on rear axle sockets for pulling nuts on the bearings. So I want to gear this truck just about like what I did with the 2002. I wanna be around 1,800 to 2,000 at 65 MPH. Doesn't take me long in a day to put on a few hundred miles. Has anyone pulled a HVAC box out of a 3rd gen before? I know I've got to look at mine being some of the stepper motors are cycling and having trouble moving doors. I know the evaporator is partial plugged up with caked dust air flow is poor. As for doing the wheel joints. Way easier way is you cut the trunion out with a torch. Now the bearing arms fall out and you can drive each bearing cup inward on all of them. Moving one cup at a time vs pressing two cup back and forth is a pain in the . Took me all of about 10 minutes to cut the trunion and then drive the caps inward. Used a hone brush to clean the holes up a bit and pressed the new u-joints in. Yup the shaft on the passenger side was just needing more force to pull out. Been in a long time I guess.

Absolutely correct about fender flares. It does promote rotting of the fender metals.

Right on I didn't know this was available. Cool! thanks for the info I'll keep that in mind!

I will admit... 2006 seats are way more comfortable than the older 2nd gen seats. Even with the driver seat with a hole on my left hip and sitting partially on the steel frame of the seat. Still more comfortable than the 2nd gen.

If its got A/C and you want to run every thing... Typically most smaller RVs are 30A service at 120VAC. 120 VAC x 30A = 3,600 Watts (4kw with room for start up of the A/C) So I would look for 4kw generator this would cover everything including A/C. Like myself I've got a cheap 2kw generator it will power everything but A/C, water heater or the microwave. As for doing solar I went even smaller and used a 1,200 watt inverter and 45w worth of solar panels and now presto... No noise of a running generator. Again not enough to do much but TV , cell phones, etc.

Weird looking snubber... I never used one like that.

Try a 5A fuse first it might work fine. Better protection.

Just like my 2006 its a SRW 1 ton.

Big mistake some do is grab the quickie R134a freon with the little gauge and hose. Do be aware those have oil in the can. Being I've done this too... after awhile the oil builds up using those can and it was nearly locking up and screeching the fan belt. I end up taking the entire system apart and did new o-rings. Blew all the oil out. Pulled the compressor and drained it. Our system only needs 5 ozs of PAG 100 oil. Sad to say I drain out more than 5 ozs. Oh make sure to drain the accumulator it most likely has a few more ozs than normal. It should be empty as like brand new. But that's my answer...

Especially with a exhaust brake. The 2006 has a turbo mounted BD brake and it air driven so that one clamps down really well and unwinds the truck super quick. I get honked at, pass by with the middle finger scream your tails don't work, etc.