Mopar1973Man

Wait till you upgrade turbos and there is no silencer ring option, then BHAF added then it just there you can't reduce the noise very much.

Don't bother with a Cummins... I would do wagner or four seasons.

I'm also set for 320 bar on 7 x 0.010 injectors. Smoke free till the wire tap hit then a poof and clear again. Also running HX35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12).

Let me clean up your Windows link to... https://www.simplyfilter.com/AIRHOUSING-p/ah1139.htm Linux doesn't copy all the adlink crap.

@NIsaacs could you list that housing you go a link or something I'm curious...

My filter minder NEVER moved even after 150k miles of dirt road travel.

Only thing I can say very very rare for fuel tanks to explode. First the tank has to be steel and not soldered like the old 70's. Then the new fuel tanks are simply ABS and typically the plastics get hot and the fuel just drains out. Since I completed Fire Fighter One and Fire Fighter Two, plus wild-land training. Even Propane tanks don't exploded typically. they just vent off. I've only seen one time where a extremely hot house fire that was enough to cause a propane tank to explode. As for vehicle fuel tank they are designed with weaken so when in accident then the tank will fail in a minor fire typically. Like most of the newer fuel caps are plastic also if the filler neck got hot it would shot the cap like a pea in a straw. As for exploding car fires in all the years chasing vehicle fires never have I see a fuel tank explode. This includes from hybrid cars, to old chevy pickups, and full sized semis truck with over 200 gallons of diesel. Just doesn't happen like the movies. Fuel tank gone... Take notice the ground around the truck is not burnt. Tank got hot and drop it contents and wicked and burned under the truck.

293 bar is 4250 psi which is minimum by Factory Service Manual... Stock is 310 bar which is 4500 PSI. Then the upper end is 327 bar which is 4750 PSI.

Exactly... People should be able to get the specs to at least make the vehicle close to right to safely drive to a alignment shop to be completed. I know the each and every vehicle is a bit different in the angles and allowances. Just seems weird they made that illegal.

Here as far as I made it in under 2 hours and just about ready to pluck the head off. My down fall is I need to removed everything off the cowl cover and remove the wipers and pull the last batch of push rods and then start unbolting the head and pulling studs. Mine is leaking in the exact same spot but engine oil not coolant.

Really? No one is allow to work on there own vehicles...

95% of all washable filter end up this way after about 3 to 5 washing of the filter. After spending over $100 on the filter it doesn't hold up to a few washings and then passing dirt from the get go. Paper filter is better way to go... BHAF for 2nd Gens.

Which I had alignment specs for people at this point.

Yeah I know the feeling... I think I've got a permanent hood latch rash on my lower part of my ribs.

Send me a support ticket an we will handle this privately.

I was extending out to 100k which was too long the coolant was turning acidic. Now it starts to weaken the gaskets and any seals that are in contact with the coolant.

If your close to me I can change injectors in about an hour or so. More than willing too.

Because the nozzle most likely is smaller so they decrease the the pop pressure to increase flow and injection happens early. So to make it flow like X sized injectors they decrease it to get more lift. Like my old 7 x 0.0085 (+75 HP) I had DAP make them and they where popped at 305 bar with SAC tips. Stalling was very common. Come to a traffic light or stop sign it would drop and stall. I had the injectors sent back changed for VCO tips same size and increased to 310 bar. Stalling stopped. My current 7 x 0.010 (+150 HP) I had my stock bodies inspected and then installed the nozzles and popped them back to 320 bar. Still running these injectors. No issues at all. With the bar set for 320 bar I need to add more timing being they do fire a bit late.

Another issue fixed.. bad crank sensor. Finalized the install of the sensor its held in with a Allen screw. It's kind of hard to spot with crap ton of dirt and grease. Verified the tach signal against a live data tool its about -100 behind the tach on the dash but not bad. Reset the two codes for crank sensor performance and Crank Sensor A circuit issue. Sorry I didn't keep the error codes...

I'll back to finish the head after I do a job today.

My 2002 Dodge is next in line for a new dash. I've been fighting to keep the cracks under control so when I spot one start I grab the super glue on a warm day work the super into the crack a little bit and then leave it along. In about an hour the glue is set up and good to go but its sprouting more and more cracks and eventually I won't be able to catch up.

Awesome idea too. https://discover.garmin.com/en-US/inreach/personal/ Most of the areas I run to the time for help to come can be awhile. Another one to add to the "Bug Out Bag" is good first aid kit. I've got a small basic first aid kit under the back seat but I'm going to upgrade to a mid line first aid at least I could control bleeding and give someone else a chance at survival. Some times your travels might put you in path of someones accident and you could help out. In the back country just a few days ago a old timer slide off the edge of the road if there was any injuries I could helped out. It could be yourself that slide off the highway in the snow you might be stuck but now you could contend with any injuries and still have food and water till you get to help again.

When I was making that Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday runs for @MoparMom dialysis treatment. I thought the same thing in the beginning, after about a year I ditched almost 200 pounds of junk from the back seat and the bed of the truck I'm no longer carrying. Then after my first failure in Ontario, OR when my lift pump failed. I needed to be towed home the biggest thing that was not handled was basic survival. No water to drink, no food, nothing to keep us warm without the engine running. My biggest thing is pack my day pack and having 1 MRE, and half gallon of water, warm cloths, gloves and possibly a tarp for shelter if needed. Now it is more about IF failure occurs now I've got basic survival for at least two people. I've got the day pack so I could walk away from the vehicle and go for help. Reconsider your personal needs before the trucks needs. Like "IF" I broke down in Mohave Valley AZ when its 110 to 120*F I've covered as well I can still hike to help. Winter times up here I could easily coat up and walk to help as well. Either way all my failures on my 2002 Dodge there was absolutely 0.00% of the failures repaired in the field after 430k miles of travel.

The noise has been found its the driver side upper control arm the bushing at the cab is worn out and the arm has some movement. Tuesday I've gotta head for Boise hopefully with my head off the 2002 and pick up a control arm bushing.

Yup... That shows the that the RV275s are closer to the mark of flow and balance. With performance injectors most of them built them and set them lower at 300 to 305 bar. I've had posted once before that when another member had a set of 100 HP injectors and the stalling issues. When the injectors where pulled at 28k miles and tested the pop pressure was 280 bar. This is about 13 bar below minimum allowed. Once the injectors where re-popped and flow matched again but the member here had them popped at 325 bar and the entire issues was gone.