Mopar1973Man

I change fuel filters every 60k miles. When I change at 30k it's still white media for the AirDog filter.

For every gallon pumped you add 1 ounce of oil. Never use anti-gel I just switch to snowmobile oil which has a pour point to -50F. I see -20 to -30 every winter

Yup. Not even 1,000 miles on it.

Ok... Since there is a few voicing this mod as good I'll get busy on in very soon when time permits. I've gotta get packed up and haul to Donnelly, ID for work. I'm going to build it like I did for Smarty Resource back in the day. Company name Owner name (if Possible) Physical address Phone number(s) Web Page URL Facebook URL Amazon URL eBay URL Dealer Rating (added to the database) Comment box What was amazing when I did it was to build a MAP pricing policy violations. The first one I nabbed was "Thoroughbred Diesel" (Wade) I did this about 9 days aftyer posting his violations. The Google search on it turn out just below their website URL and Thoroughbred Diesel was calling my boss (Rip Rook) and wanted it removed I did in about 24 hours AFTER Rip Rook made him comply in pricing. Problem was solved and I pulled the listing in less than 24 hours off of Google. This will react the same way so if vendors get a bad rating it will pop on search engines stopping bad vendors (like CPP).

Higher the cetane the lower the BTU's. Summer fuel is dark green and light green is winter fuel. As stated by the ASTM Lab documents... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!! This why in the summer time the MPG go up and during the winter the MPG's go down. Adding more cetane will just make the fuel faster or quicker to ignite but makes the BTU energy lower. Less push during the power stroke. Most peopel start using cetane because of weak injecotr or wore out injectors and always says its does better. This is because the injectors being wore out will produce large droplets at lower pop pressure. Now it takes more time to light the fuel off. Now the cetane will bring it back to burning easier but after the tank is done the problem returns. You would be better off having your injectors pop tested or replaced if there is over 100k miles on them. (This includes 12V, 24V and common rail). As for use I DO NOT use any cetane booster or anti-gel all year round. I DO use 2 cycle oil. It a natural BTU enhancer, injector cleaner and cetane reducer.

Well I got the head gasket install yesterday. Still got a bit of fuel system to put back yet. The gasket fell apart in a bout 4 different places. coolant jackets down the passenger side blistered up. Between cylinder the gasket came apart better cylinders. Then the big part of it around the bolt in the front. I even called back to DAP to verify the manufacture and was told its a Cummins OEM gasket. All them look exactly the same for material and design. While its still in my own shop I'm going to do the steering box later today after doing the rest of the fuel system.

Sounds like a massive vacuum leak if the vacuum pump was disconnected and capped and no oil.

How about we build a vendor list that people can rate and comment on. I can build a hybrid article database with these extra info.

Trying hard... I just got the head gasket changed today but got a few hours to finalize the job.

That was a fun call last night. I called @JAG1 but no answer so I called @dripley then shortly @JAG1 calls back so I merged the calls together and cross country chat with 2 members. Worse yet but in construction. LOL As for that wrap that is super cool color.

Beyond that. If you do everything @Dieselfuture mentions then... Valve seals failed, excessive valve guide clearance. Broken or wore out piston ring(s), piston damage or excessive piston clearance. Cracked head or bad head gasket.

Example... Dynamic drilled two oil jets in the body of trans to cool both clutch packs. Then he cut about 0.1 inch of both clutch baskets and upgrade that 46RE to more like 47RE. Added extra friction and steel plate. Then pull the valve body and drilled out few ports making 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shift really firm. Upgraded bands and levers. I know other builders don't do some of these mods.

I normally don't rev to 3k. I'm typically shifting out by about 2,500 to 2,800 RPM. Depends on the tune and where your peek torque curve is. Freeze plugs blowing out I remember long ago a member on CF had hooked up a pressure gauge to the coolant jacket and the water pump could produce upwards of 40 PSI inside the coolant jacket and start pushing out the freeze plugs. Might look at large mouth thermostats. Like NAPA already upgraded and went away from the small mouth thermostats and upgrade to large mouth to reduce block pressures. Do NOT get the Cummins thermostat it is produced by Mr Gasket/Holley and it an old Robertshaw design and will split in half. NAPA THM PM1906245 Attributes # of Seals: 1 Brand: NAPA Flange Diameter: 2.272 in. Height from Flange: 1.102 in. Jiggle Pin: Yes Temperature Range: 190 Deg F NOT A QUALITY PRODUCT! -> Cummins 3946849 - Remember the body will split on these I've replaced now 5 of these thermostats for customers. Which results into this...

Harness needs replaced for sure. Ballast I've got lots of hours from the 5 years of driving back and forth to Ontario, OR. Ballast will be fine most likely. The only thing that will shorten a ballast life if you upgraded to a bigger ballast and make the bulbs brighter which is an option but it not only wears the ballast out faster but the bulbs too.

Watching... Sad to say I've got no experience with deep pans. All my truck are manuals except for Lil' Red which is 46RE and just a 5.9L gas engine.

Out here the only paved roads are the highway. Everything else is a dirt road. Now it been a long while since I had to travel back road to peoples places in the winter time. Remember last year the COVID had everything shut down. Then 5 years before that I was taking care of @MoparMomdialysis runs to Ontario, OR. This winter I might be out in the snow and ice much more. Bad enough I've got to make time to get to Param and buy my 17 inch wheels for Thor. Then I got a buddy in Riggins going to score me a good dealer on Hankook ATm's (265/70 R17) for Thor (2006 Dodge). As for The Beast I ran a lot of highway miles in the winter. I think the best thing to see is out running a lift Ford on 35 inch tires and I'm just cruising at 60 to 65 MPH with my tiny 30 inch (245/ 75 R16) tires. Snow as 9 inches deep un-plowed highway and still made a clean pass and keep on going. Yeah I was in 4WD but still this is way I love the pizza cutter better bite to the highway below. That Ford was fighting because he was floating on top of the snow and no traction. (Hankook ATm's 245/75 R16)

I need to do another myself. Everyone here KNOWS I have I've got long hair... Down at a friends place building a 500 HP Chevy. Yeah if you been around me the last couple of years you also find me wear scrub top shirts. Greatest work wear and it all washes out. No stains... Rare photo indeed... Myself on the left, Marco (Quadzilla), and then Jacob Kidd (Diesel Auto Power). Get all 3 of us together! I actually visited the Diesel Auto Power Office and met all the crew.

You all need to talk to the our site transmission man... @Dynamic He even made a beefed up 46RE for me as well. There is things in Dynamic's products that you cannot get in DTT and other rebuilders.

That's fine to disagree... I just look from a different angle.

Any error codes present? Did you check the cluster connectors in the dash? Is it the right cluster? As far as I know the 1998.5 to 2002 is always been a 3,200 RPM redline. Did you do a cluster test? Hold the trip button down and turn the ignition on, then release after the CHECK message.

Best to test the MAP plug to the ECM plug. Ohm out the wires and verify the the wire are not broke first.

Strange all the talk about wanting 2 LO on a CAD axle. In all the years I've lived in Idaho I've never really needed 2WD or 4WD LO range at all. Shoot most of the winter time I'm still in 2WD. Rare for me to even used 4WD HI. I'm not the type to bail into a muddy area blindly. I will look things over before proceeding. I look at the fact if I can do most of my travel in 2WD even offroad then I always got 4WD to free me in a bad spot. Even hauling my wood trailers and RV. Like right now I've still got my RV up at Smokey Boulder Road. I towed it in 2WD up 14 miles of dirt roads. Then I'm going to hitch up my utility trailer and head up and go wood cutting. Even hauling that trailer up some of the rough nasty road I've never needed LO range ever. Last weekend... My 2000 Jayco and my 2013 BigTex Trailer. Red Heart Icon is the camp spot from the highway...

Kind of like the 2006 vs 2002 Dodge's I've got. The 2006 I love the auto exhaust brake function. I can set my cruise and the ECM controls the exhaust brake on long downhill runs. Where the 2002 is totally manual and you have to manage speed on your own. The 2006 has 3.73 gears which I'm happy with but got to get rid of the lift kit and these 18's wheels. Good power but no where near what the 2002 Dodge will do. As for the full back seat it just a bigger junk collector than my 2002 with the Quad doors. As for the 2002 its tuned with the Quadzilla and does way better on MPG's over the 2006 Dodge. Better power, 5 speed less shifting gears, injectors are a fraction of the price. Suspension on the 2002 is way better and hauls weight better.

Nope... Never have. Matter of fact the last time I had the head off the freeze plugs are still like new and not even rusted on the inside yet. My current head gasket failed as the composite material let got and got pushed out the front causing a coolant leak.

Well as soon as I get time I'm going to... Get a set of 17 stock wheels I've got a deal for $150 in Parma, ID for wheels Get a set of 265/70 R17 tires I've got a bid in for about $1,000 for a set of Hankook ATm Take out the 2 inch lift kit in the front. (Thrust angle is wrong). Funny thing lately the tach is coming back on its own and start to function properly for short time. When I seen that I'm not much different from what the 2002 is gear wise. I'm look towards actually getting back to the stock size and take full advantage of the 3.73 gears with all the weight. Heavy front steel bumper and a heavy steel flatbed, then all the tools in the tool boxes. Biggest thing I'm fighting is my trip back and forth up Goose Creek grade (7% at 45 MPH). The other small issue is the wastegate solenoid is failing and randomly will trip a P0243 code. This is defualing and keeping me held back ot a mere 20 PSI of boost. EGT's easily cross the 1,300 to 1,400*F realm. I'm not even towing yet.