Mopar1973Man

Ok tomorrow I've got to run to McCall for parts for a job. I'll grab a few pics.

After a 3 year long of not running... Stuffed in a new Valair quiet towing dual disc clutch and a set of +50HP injectors. It runs! It's been so long since I last drove it that it was like a all new experience. No real smoke at all. Remember there is no tuner just the +50HP injectors and stock ECM. I rolled out 18.2 MPG on the way home at least on the overhead display. I need to set up my app for this truck and start monitoring the actual MPG which might be a bit better being this does have oversized tires (33 inch). Ratio is wrong and runs on the hot side climbing grades. Oh yeah I found out that 2006 and up are chipped keys. Man talk about expensive to have cut. I had a original key and fob it was 175 dollars to cut and program the new key. Even got a extra key non-chip for a door fall back. If you attempt to set without a fob key it will start and run but a red light will come on and then it will die because of lack of chip being present during the start up. All the alarm functions do work too. Way back home set the cruise at 65 MPH it was nice to have the auto exhaust brake function to maintain road speed correct. As I traveled down the grade the exhaust brake would turn on and off as needed to hold the road speed. Really nice feature. Cab is really comfortable to drive in for long hauls, seat wise. The driver seat has that hole next to my left hip also fixable with a new foam pad and bit of sewing. We stuff the back seat with groceries and other stuff. I'm still finding small little things that need done to make it all right. Need a new stereo head. Fix the mirror so the door controls work. Fix the fog lights (missing the turn on switch). Other than that I'm quite impressed with this truck. Oh yeah part of the EGT issue is the wastegate solenoid too. (broke lead). Next step is to sell the 1996 Dodge 1500... Time to retire "Little Red".

Hey @Dieselfuture I'll give that a shot and see what happens. What did you use for thread lube?

The only thing I did was once it was down for bulb change I think I just wiped it all off with a damp cloth and never removed it. Mine was mostly the dead bugs that got in and cleaned up easy enough. I'm not sure if the long tab can be manipulated to release completely.

Kind of like comparing Eileen's 2018 Hyundai Elantra back seat to the 2006 Dodge Ram back seat on a Quad Cab. Even worse is compare to the 2002 Dodge Quad Cab back seat which still is the tightest seat.

I had a gentleman call me about buying all USA parts. Seriously 99.9% of everything is produced in China to some extent. Even if the product is assembled here in USA the parts themselves might be manufactured in China so they can be shipped back to be assembled USA. Still the same crappy products stating Assembled in USA but the parts where create in China. I see a lot of this going on.

Problem the Edge Comp is lacking in the proper timing for 150HP injectors. The Edge Comp is tuned based on STOCK injectors and then gives an added punch of timing for STOCK injectors. Now with Larger injectors they can inject faster and larger amounts in a shorter time. (Duration). With all this fuel coming in so faster you need to advance timing more to allow for all that fuel to turn to vapor to go BANG! Stock timing will always be smokey with large injectors. Now similar show of this. I got @Jthortruck going with new +50 HP injectors in his 95 Ford F-350. Stock injectors were washed out and done but no smoke. Now fresh +50HP injectors and now it rolling coal really really easy. This is that added fuel but the stock ECM is not adding more timing to make up for the faster shot of fuel so you get smoke. Even the new +50HP injectors I installed in "Thor" the 2006 smoke a bit too. Again stock timing can deal with the larger shot of fuel in a short duration of timie so smoke is created. In both cases if I had the means of adding a bout +2 degrees to both truck the smoke would clear up. Being the 2006 Dodge and the 1995 Ford are both computer driven then each one needs a programmer to clean up the smoke and tune in for efficiency.

Yeah your right but fixed...

My gauge senders are not even on the engine, but the driver side fender for easier testing and diagnostics. This is all I've got at my tap point. A shut off valve, then the sinstered metal snubber, and the the Push To Connector fitting. (PTC).

Like myself I had my PCM burned up when my alternator shorted out. It was so bad there was no circuit board to repair the burned tracers. I went to Auto Computer Specialist and ended up buying a reman'ed PCM.

Going to get much more... Already been driving it locally. Getting ready to run it out longer Get ready for a busy summer.

That's why I don't use the bleeder style. Trying to force air to travel downward against it will is just plain crazy. Air will always travel up to the highest point. Pull the entire system out and hang. Then press the slave in fast and release slowly. The air will be forced up and return to the reservoir. Instead of pumping like mad to attempt to push it out of bleeder on the slave at the very bottom. I've done a few re-bleeds with master still installed but pull most of the line straight and do the same thing. Still easier to push air UP than down.

Ouch... That suxs. I know what you mean someone dumped all my nuts in the washer can. Sort that stuff out on the floor. Now in this case sorting copper washers and measuring every one with caliper oh man that will just be crazy for someone. Just a heads up being I've seen his shop. Yeah its just not a small bind of this and that @dieselautopowerhas quite a bit in the shop and then out in the warehouse he's got racks full of ready product. Yup someone will be wishing they were peeling taters..

Copper washers are two fold. The set the spray height. Then then seal the injectors to the head and transfer the heat to the coolant.

Overhead consoles are slide and snaps. The dome light is a couple of release tabs.

Typically I never buy injection pump based on price Thoroughbred Diesel sells cheap but I don't think they are a quality rebuild. You not the only one I've heard of pump issues from TD. I typically find vendors like DAP. I actually check into where there pumps come from and if they are a Bosch Certified Rebuilder with a Bosch 815 test stand for PSG programming and flash. Being a true rebuilder ALWAYS starts with a fresh PSG and has to be ran on the test stand for like 3 hours and then the PSG flashes the PSG with all the calibration and settings.

Remember depending on the torque converter and stall speed it can pull it down. I've seen torque converters fail that are excessively tight and almost have to hold throttle up to get into gear without stalling. If the injectors check out and the idle speed is close to 800 in park then your fine on the fuel side. Now you have to look into the transmission side.

Remember MAX band is for controlling the cruise timing limit. You can set the max slider lower to cancel out the cruise timing to hold it to an absolute max. Some of what the stock Quad tune is based on. Here is step +4.0 starting at 13. You'll only gain 1 degree by 3k. No upper RPM advancement really Here is step +5.0 starting at 13. This is pretty good. Here is step +5.5. Just no way to fit a +6.0 step. This was my last one I ran just as it popped the head gasket.

Like I start at 13 degrees and step up 5.5 degrees per band. Gives excellent launching power where 15 degrees is going to be doggy.

So... here you go. All put together and running. Just gotta debug a few minor things.

Very true when I was running with high boost and possibly dropped throttle too sudden and overwhelmed the injectors with compression gases.

Look in the articles for the voltage drop test in the general articles under electrical. You need to see if you have any bad cables between batteries and the alternator. Make sure where the alternator bolts to the block you have clean grounds. Look for electrical loads that are drawing hard on the system. You could pull a fuse and probe both contacts with a DVM on amps DC and you can total up all the circuits. Optimally you want it as low as possible.

We as in @Jthor and myself wanted TH0R for a plate but it was taken. This truck is going to be our shop truck. I'm going to put tool boxes down the bed sides. Load it up and get to work. Takes time, money, and lots of effort to get it together. I've already been talking to local shops and working trades. So if they don't want to deal with diesels hook me up. I'll in return send my gasser work.

Typically the seals could be reused if needed just inspect it closely for damage or rust on the metal tip.

Bad part is @Wet Vette insurance does cover any items stolen from the car. I get to replace my camera on my own.