Mopar1973Man

Soon as I get free time been working 12 hour days. I'm pretty beat tonight.

Is the shaft linkage adjusted enough to allow the shift properly?

All timing is electronically controlled by the ECM. The P0216 code more or less means the injection pump timing piston is seized up in the bore. From here on out is replacement of the VP44. Sorry to say.

Just a tidbit for others. I just did new wheel bearings on the front of the 2006 Dodge. I ordered the NAPA fleet series bearings. They are coated to protect the metals. Needless to say I had the passenger side ABS made contact with the rotor. Yup ate the cable through one wire. I just swapped an old sensor back. The new one is repairable. For sure not like the 2002 ABS codes are stored and require a tool that can read and erase ABS codes. After the swap it reset and all lights are back off once again.

I guess I'll have to apply more force to get that shaft out. All I've done they typically just slide out. This one is acting like there is a clip or something holding the shaft from coming out. I've got joints for both sides now and a control arm bushing. Just gotta get the passenger side shaft out.

I just heard of people using Flex Seal for RV roofs. I would for sure look at that as an option.

Don't get me wrong I've got a small 2kw generator but I need a 100 foot cord and move the generator way out in the woods. Hence the small solar and inverter setup. Like my trip to Pittsburg Landing on Memorial Day I listened to all the generators all day long. Since I had Kayden (Jake's son) we fired up the TV and fell asleep with it running all night. Woke up and the TV was still playing that movie series. Turn the solar panels around it was charging still while the TV was still going. No issues with charging tablets and cell phones too.

Here is the article...

My Jayco is outfitted with 1,200 watt inverter. No sound or noise from the inverter and the solar panels keep the batteries charged up. Just flip two switches and the house has 120 VAC in all the outlets. No gasoline, no noise, just peace and quiet.

Hey guys. I've got to do wheel joints on the front axle. Now the driver side shaft just slides out. Now the passenger side shaft won't come out even prying against it. Is there a clip in the differential or what? Weird the driver side shaft just about falls out and slides in easy as pie. That passenger shaft is resisting the idea of coming out. Ideas, thoughts, or a bit of knowledge? Just finished up replacing both front unit bearings. This is when I found the passenger side shaft has a worn out wheel joint. I've got both wheel joints here and can easily do it at another time but the whole problem of the getting that passenger shaft out of the axle is my biggest issue.

Yup. Still good here with the 320 bar. Very clean burning very little smoke.

I run the ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge. The got the ISSPro programming cable and set the warning light at 13 PSI. There is even more programmable functions in each gauge. Even can install the optional relay and you can set level for the relay to control like trans temp gauge set the relay for 160F but set the warning light for 200F.

If still shifting weird replace the output speed sensor in the tail of the transmission.

1300 for a rebuild is HIGH. Might look at Diesel Auto Power. They carry the reman'ed pumps for much less also by a certified Bosch rebuilder.

Personally I like solder ends this seals out the salt and the wires are more or less welded to the ring terminal.

Best to pull the VP44 to do it right. I've got both articles on pulling the VP44 and doing the tappet cover.

Been using a mayo jar and vinyl tubing for years. Tubing has to have snug fit.

Yes you should be able to key on no start to test the system.

USPS can be slow yet being the amount of freight still being sent making up from the COVID-19 shut down.

Also at 320 bar (7 x 0.010). No starting or idling issues. Being my setup can and will spin all 4 tires. Towing power is super good. Your larger tires do change the final ratio lower number. Like myself went smaller tired and increased the final ratio to 3.69 and I run 2k RPM at 66 MPH. This lowered my EGTs. Even my 2006 Dodge is 3.73 gears and slightly larger tires and just about the same RPM at 66 MPH. You should be cruising close to 2k at 65 MPH. Even at 80 MPH im just under 2.5 RPM. 2002 at 65 MPH is about 2.5 PSI boost and 550 to 600 EGTs. 2006 at 65 MPH is about 5 PSI boost and about 650 EGTs. FINAL RATIO - has huge effects on running EGTs.

Cool. At least you heading forward again.

Be best to have a tuner and gain back the boost fooler. Like the 2006 I've got any time it has any engine code the boost is limited to barely 20 PSI which the EGTs are much higher. When all codes cleared it will run 30 to 35 PSI and EGTs are much lower. Always best to have good boost while towing or climbing grades.

18 to 19 PSI... at 20 PSI the ECM is defueling.

You could send a sample of oil to a lab and verify the if the oil is contaminated. Place fuel can come from... Injector o-rings and high return pressure on the VP44. Bad injector(s) that is stuck open or cracked nozzle. Cracked head (rare) but yes I've seen this where the return fuel was push up into the top of the head. Worn rings . cylinder wall clearance (excessive blow by)

Quad XZT is like the Edge EZ model. Way different when you have the Adrenaline. Way more control of everything including timing and fuel mapping. Still best to have a tuner module that allows for custom timing. This is where the High MPG comes from. Fuel map you can custom out like I've done. 0 to 5 PSI from 80% to 100%, then from 5 to 15 PSI is all STOCK fuel at 100%. Then at 15 PSI and up both my wire tap and the CANBus fuel will rise together for strong passing power. My timing is currently 20 degrees at 2k RPM's in cruise state.