Mopar1973Man

If its got A/C and you want to run every thing... Typically most smaller RVs are 30A service at 120VAC. 120 VAC x 30A = 3,600 Watts (4kw with room for start up of the A/C) So I would look for 4kw generator this would cover everything including A/C. Like myself I've got a cheap 2kw generator it will power everything but A/C, water heater or the microwave. As for doing solar I went even smaller and used a 1,200 watt inverter and 45w worth of solar panels and now presto... No noise of a running generator. Again not enough to do much but TV , cell phones, etc.

Weird looking snubber... I never used one like that.

Try a 5A fuse first it might work fine. Better protection.

Just like my 2006 its a SRW 1 ton.

Big mistake some do is grab the quickie R134a freon with the little gauge and hose. Do be aware those have oil in the can. Being I've done this too... after awhile the oil builds up using those can and it was nearly locking up and screeching the fan belt. I end up taking the entire system apart and did new o-rings. Blew all the oil out. Pulled the compressor and drained it. Our system only needs 5 ozs of PAG 100 oil. Sad to say I drain out more than 5 ozs. Oh make sure to drain the accumulator it most likely has a few more ozs than normal. It should be empty as like brand new. But that's my answer...

Especially with a exhaust brake. The 2006 has a turbo mounted BD brake and it air driven so that one clamps down really well and unwinds the truck super quick. I get honked at, pass by with the middle finger scream your tails don't work, etc.

AC noise. What did you measure before at the alternator BATT post and after the W-T mod?

Low quality tablet are that way. I bought one for $40 bucks. I've still got it. Too old of OS and the iQuad app will run but it will not draw the needles on the gauges. Mine the battery only last like 30 minutes to 1 hour and its dead.

Too much oil in the system. Really common for guys that use the Walmart big can.

Not really a fools errand... Just consider I started my first business of "Cloud !0 Computer" after graduating from ITT Tech (Van Nuys, CA). I ran that business till 2008. When the market crashed it had a huge impact. By that time the website and the amount of diesel work I was doing was better option. So I put the extra effort and crated the business name of "Mopar1973Man.Com" for shop work. As for the "Cloud 10 Computers" I left it behind but hold the name still. I could bring it back with all my Linux Knowledge and Server Setups. In the meantime the Mopar1973Man shop side has been doing very well. In all the years... There is a bunch of part time or oddball jobs. Images in glass and mirror (Hung mirrors in Eddie Van Halen's House!) Motorcycle body work Montgomery Wards (Tires and batteries) Cable assembly Auto body Car stereo installer Restaurant "dish pit" Computers (Windows) and Internet setup (Cloud 10 Computers) Managed Steelhead Inn (Motel) Shop mechanic (Mopar1973Man.Com) Linux Server Admin (Mopar1973Man.Com)

Kind of like I threw out the Dodge FSM and went against everyone and using Mobil 50 SAE Transmission Fluid in my NV4500. Way better lube than factory fluid and cost much less even for 5 Gallons. It is a GL-4 transmission lube and has zero impact on shift quality. This is the very same transmission lube used in Eaton Fuller 10 speed transmissions. Very heavy duty transmission lube.

All I can say is try again. See if the problem is repeatable.

Wasn't sure. Like myself I've got no security either. Still in all be aware than VIN number might come back to cause system bugs. Rare but does happen.

Can you show us a screen shot or a photo of the page of this clip and where?

At any rate the CTM you choice from where ever... You going to need to have them flashed and proper VIN number flash to it. Being the PCM and CTM both handle security features.

Even on 24V injectors you cannot just swap nozzles on those either. Still require to be pop tested and flow matched. I look at it this way do it right the first there will not be a second time...

Done... Doing the wheel joints this way is way faster and super easy to pound the caps inward.

Got the shaft out. Had to pry it out just with a bigger bar. As for the wheel joint. I cut the trunnion out, then using a socket and hammer drive the bearings caps inward.

Steering shaft you should check to see if the shaft moves like bad shaft bearing. I see a lot of people that grab the steering wheel to pull themselves up into the driver seat. This will wear out the lower bearing on the shaft. I remember there is a company (don't remember the name) that make a new sleeve for the steer shaft.

No joke very nice looking truck you have...

I use NAPA track bars with little issues. I get between 80k to 120k miles out of track bar. Typically about 5 to 10 minutes. Basic tools. Either end I've seen the rubber bushing fail and then typically the ball stud end will move up and down when you turn the steering wheel back and forth.

I would go read up on the P1698 code and do some diagnostics on the CCD Bus. White smoke is a timing issue. Should be a P0216 code coming soon. Speed is from the ABS module. The Check Gage light might be from loss of the CCD bus from the ECM as well since the cluster computer didn't get any info it drops out of range on the gauges and tripping the light. Remember the PCM creates the CCD bus messages and the cluster is what provides the bias voltage for the CCD bus. Bus Failure The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures for details on how to diagnose these faults using a DRBIII scan tool.

Do a full injectors. DO NOT do just nozzles. There is no way for you to adjust the injectors properly without a test stand. Like myself I got a set of +50 HP injectors from DAP and just installed them. If you change nozzles only there is no way to be sure the injectors are setup properly.

The only thing about LEDs is it depends on the headlight reflector for pattern, Cheap headlights will produce poor pattern of light. Where HIDs depend on the lens and typically its a very smooth pattern of light compared to any LED bulb.

Not vacuum leak at least past the check valve double check the line between the pump and check valve.